I got an 80 (AGAIN) and I love it (4 Viewers)

[mudgudgeon]

Damn dude! What you've been doing with cruisers sounds like a full time job!

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

Damn dude! What you've been doing with cruisers sounds like a full time job!

Land cruisers here are equivalent to LS motors in the US, spare parts and support are abundant which makes it approachable. Its addicting, I do not own a workshop or anything I am simply doing this for recreation and the thrill. But I have a feeling this wont last forever so Ill make the most out of it while I can.

 

[Fattyeighty]

Thank you for the kind words.

I used to be obsessed with shock tuning (valving) and spring rates with the goal of getting the best ride quality and stability possible for the sand dunes and rocky deserts, but I have shifted towards engine performance since I realized the potential has been pretty much maxed out and the only way I would benfit would be to go long travel, so you can have more travel and therefore run softer springs and valving to get the ultimate comfy ride without needing to slow down for big hits with the con of huge amounts of body roll and nose dive/squat since soft springs and valving will do that, especially with progressive damping that you get out of fox and kings, but the knowledge and experience I gained from the first few years of constantly revalving and swapping out springs has served me well so far.

For my goals which is mostly the best ride quality over choppy terrain and big hits, I always run the softest spring rate possible, no matter what, and that always ends up being the stock OEM springs, this gives the best ride since it allows the shock/damper itself to do the work.

As for linear vs dual rate vs progressive springs, I tend to go for dual rate springs if I ever decide to try out aftermarket springs, but I usually only swap the front springs when trying out aftermarket springs, since you ALWAYS want the front springs to have a heavier rate then the front to keep the nose high during oscillations, changing the rear springs from OEM to any other aftermarket spring has rarely worked well to me, since I am very sensitive to changes in ride quality and it always ends up being worse, it ends up bucking, which can only be solved by using allot of rebound valving, and that will cause the ride to feel stiff and flat, the plushiness will be gone.

But there is some merit to using linear springs since they offer a constant spring rate and are therefore more predictable and easier to tune (when dialing in rebound valving for that spring combo).

Since the OEM coil springs do not give much ride height, I always run a 2.5 inch spacer upfront and a 2 inch spacer in the rear, so I can get more up travel to sock up bumps before slamming the bumpstops. I always wanted to try out aftermarket springs with more free length then the stock but with the same spring rate but I have yet to find those, all aftermarket springs have a higher spring rate then stock, have not found any that offer more free length and the same or lower spring rate then stock.

Thank you for the detailed reply and the tip regarding a higher spring rate in the front.

Hope to see more of your projects and perhaps a suspension workshop soon. Wishing you the best

 

[haulin auss]

Awesome work, what grade fuel are you running for these numbers?

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

Awesome work, what grade fuel are you running for these numbers?

Thank you.

The naturally aspirated builds use good old pump 93 since they wont take advantage of higher octane fuel since they are not knock limited. I will only consider running higher octane fuel such as race gas like Q16 or methanol on N/A builds if I were to have really high compression, like a 1.5+mm head mill + domed pistons which is something I will try in the near future. Only then will I be able to take advantage of higher octane, since higher compression would increase the likelihood of knock, but when combined with higher octane fuel I wouldn’t need to rely on excessively rich AFRs and retarded timing maps at full load to prevent knock, which would be a necessity on pump gas and that would just be backwards since then I wouldn’t benefit from that higher compression.

The 80 series turbo is using VP Racing Q16 race gas currently, I ditched the meth injection since its just provides a peace of mind to have a full tank of pure race gas with a 116 octane, no need to worry about mixing etc, I am still not making the most out of running this fuel since I did not push the boost far enough. But I cant push the boost any further now since I don't want to break my transmission yet, I will wait until the straight cut gears arrive.

Furthermore while I am here, on my 80 series I will be swapping out my Garett medium sized G33 turbo for a much larger G42 since I realized I am out of turbo, I realized that because at 4800+ RPM it wants much less fuel when tuning, indicating that not enough air is being ingested, even though I am running a high duration camshaft.

So it must be the turbo not being able to keep up and therefore causing a restriction. We will see how it performs with the significantly larger turbo, I am expecting boost lag, but also expecting better high RPM performance, which will contribute to significantly higher peak HP numbers since it’s paired with a large camshaft.

All in all I am incredibly happy with the 80 series project, the power is outstanding and it has been surviving being driven hard every day back to back without any issue, never gets old when I feel the G force of 700+ foot pounds from 6 massive cylinders in second gear when get gets up 14 PSI of boost.

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

The Garett G42 Turbo is getting installed as we speak, this thing is huge!

Larger turbo = moves more air at the same boost, so I better watch out and not go to high on the first test. Not because the engine won’t handle it, but because the transmission won’t.

I’m excited to see how the driving experience changes with this significantly larger turbo, yes I’m expecting the boost threshold to increase and the lag to worsen, but I am curious to see how much better it is above 4500 RPM up till 6500 RPM.

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

Update:

My mistake, it turned out the bigger Garrett turbo I installed was a G45 not a G42, that explains the sheer size.

Took it to the dyno yesterday and I had a blast testing it and trying out different settings in the ECU. This thing is an absolute monster.

It turns out this combo (high duration camshaft + BIG Turbo) loves HIGH RPM, and I mean allot. I started out with a 6000 RPM rev limit, and I just kept increasing it by 200 each run, watching the powerband go higher and higher without leveling off, I was shocked. I ended up reaching 7200 RPM but the injector duty cycle was maxed out by then, I need bigger injectors, currently running 1050cc injector dynamics injectors with 2 WALBRO 535LPH fuel pumps and the fuel pressure regulator set to 80 PSI. I ordered a set of 2200cc injectors.

I also noticed that above 5500 RPM advancing the ignition timing provided a huge increase in power output per degree, it kept increasing 10-20 HP per degree, I started of at 18 degrees at peak boost and went all the way up to 27 degrees.

Anywho here are the best power outputs achieved at low boost and high boost:

Low Boost - 0.65 BAR (9.5 PSI): 464 WHP

High Boost - 1.35 BAR (19.5 PSI): 701 WHP

 

[Fattyeighty]

Update:

My mistake, it turned out the bigger Garrett turbo I installed was a G45 not a G42, that explains the sheer size.

Took it to the dyno yesterday and I had a blast testing it and trying out different settings in the ECU. This thing is an absolute monster.

It turns out this combo (high duration camshaft + BIG Turbo) loves HIGH RPM, and I mean allot. I started out with a 6000 RPM rev limit, and I just kept increasing it by 200 each run, watching the powerband go higher and higher without leveling off, I was shocked. I ended up reaching 7200 RPM but the injector duty cycle was maxed out by then, I need bigger injectors, currently running 1050cc injector dynamics injectors with 2 WALBRO 535LPH fuel pumps and the fuel pressure regulator set to 80 PSI. I ordered a set of 2200cc injectors.

I also noticed that above 5500 RPM advancing the ignition timing provided a huge increase in power output per degree, it kept increasing 10-20 HP per degree, I started of at 18 degrees at peak boost and went all the way up to 27 degrees.

Anywho here are the best power outputs achieved at low boost and high boost:

Low Boost - 0.65 BAR (9.5 PSI): 464 WHP

High Boost - 1.35 BAR (19.5 PSI): 701 WHP

View attachment 3608744

View attachment 3608745

Love the work you're doing, no one does Landcruisers like Qatar. Meanwhile I can't get someone to run a coiled 1FZFE over here.
Crankshaft is doing major work at 7000+ RPM. Seems like here is some truth to some saying these are larger 2JZs.
Looking forward to seeing vids around the dunes.
How is the drivetrain holding up?
Hope you're staying safe in the crazy weather. Best wishes to you and your family.

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

Love the work you're doing, no one does Landcruisers like Qatar. Meanwhile I can't get someone to run a coiled 1FZFE over here.
Crankshaft is doing major work at 7000+ RPM. Seems like here is some truth to some saying these are larger 2JZs.
Looking forward to seeing vids around the dunes.
How is the drivetrain holding up?
Hope you're staying safe in the crazy weather. Best wishes to you and your family.

Thank you for the kind words.

Yes I am one of the believers that the 1FZ-FE is pretty much a larger 2JZ. And even though my setup is turbocharged (forced induction) I still beleive that there is no replacement for discplacement. Since you get more power off boost, faster spool up etc. Even with this large turbo it still spools up pretty fast and early.

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

Ladies and gentlemen, I kept driving it around town on low boost with the new 7200 RPM limit and and it felt quick and powerful.

Then I switched to high boost and floored it in third gear and as soon as it got to 1.35 BAR (19.5 PSI) it felt freakin fast! The seat of the pants feel. But! The fun lasted for like two seconds, then I heard a loud pop and all of a sudden the third and fourth gears whine like hell now.

I thought I broke third and fourth but it still works albeit it’s making allot of noise now. First and second gears are fine though. I’ll keep it parked for now since I am confident that with the noise that third and fourth are making now that one more run under boost will end them. I’ll wait till the straight cut gears arrive.

This was no surprise really, the amount of torque it’s making at high boost is over what the stock H151 5 speed manual transmission can handle.

 

[Fattyeighty]

Ladies and gentlemen, I kept driving it around town on low boost with the new 7200 RPM limit and and it felt quick and powerful.

Then I switched to high boost and floored it in third gear and as soon as it got to 1.35 BAR (19.5 PSI) it felt freakin fast! The seat of the pants feel. But! The fun lasted for like two seconds, then I heard a loud pop and all of a sudden the third and fourth gears whine like hell now.

I thought I broke third and fourth but it still works albeit it’s making allot of noise now. First and second gears are fine though. I’ll keep it parked for now since I am confident that with the noise that third and fourth are making now that one more run under boost will end them. I’ll wait till the straight cut gears arrive.

This was no surprise really, the amount of torque it’s making at high boost is over what the stock H151 5 speed manual transmission can handle.

Looks like you found the limit of the H151 transmission.
How is the rest of the drivetrain holding up? Still has the transfercase?
معوض خير

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

Looks like you found the limit of the H151 transmission.
How is the rest of the drivetrain holding up? Still has the transfercase?
معوض خير

I am certain the rest of the drivetrain (transfer case, driveshaft, axels) is incredibly strong and is not something to worry about, classic Toyota overengineering. Up till 1500 WHP the only weak point is the transmission 3-4th to be specific.

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

I would like to share another 1FZ-FE side build with you guys, a quite build running a fully stock exhaust including stock cast iron manifolds and the stock intake and airbox.

The reason I want to share it is because it feels very peppy and powerful especially around 1500-3600, and it being so quite just amplifies that powerful feeling even more since you hear nothing and it just goes.

This is another FJZ100 100 series Land Cruiser with the GEN2 1FZ-FE.

Only the following changes have been made everything else is bone stock:

1. Freshly rebuilt engine OEM parts only with 101mm bore OEM pistons

2. 1.5mm intake and exhaust valves from super tech, without valve springs.

3. 1.5mm head mill for increased compression (biggest factor here)

4. 3UR-FE coils wired to the ECU individually, meaning direct fire coil on-plug.

5. MoTeC M130 ECU.

Everything else is stock, including the fuel system, the injectors, the fuel pump, etc.

It is really powerful when you floor it from the beginning all the way to 4500 RPM, and it’s just amazing because it’s so damn quite as well, I’m so used to loud exhausts so it’s refreshing.

This build has reinforced to me the idea that head milling does wonders for power.