HZJ73 Axle questions

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The Woodlands, Texas
It looks like I will need to add another forum here on IH8MUD to my regular list since I am in the process of acquiring a set of HZJ73 axles to put under my FJ55. I am pretty stoked about the opportunity to get a FF rear, beefier axle parts, better pinion angle, electric lockers and front and rear disc brakes all at once. Thanks for the help in finding them everyone.

Now to the questions -

24v vs 12v > What are my options for integrating these 24v axles onto a 12v vehicle? I'm leaning toward Downey's cable conversion but am open to suggestions.

Hubs > If I decide to go cable on the lockers what about the electric hubs? Can I swap them for manual hubs?

Parts > What is the situation with the replaceable parts (bearings, races, gaskets, brake pads etc)? Will I be able to source them in the US or am I looking at importing them. I plan to completely rebuild the axles so I'll need to replace all of the parts that need it.

Thanks for the guidence - more questions to come I'm sure.

Patrick
 
for the elec diffs, amyb elook at a 12-24 converter (IF there is such a thing)
the elec hubs can be changed out with mini truck manual hubs
the internals should all be availble through your local UAP...
or ENS in Saskatewan...
cheers
 
The Solar converter is supposed to be able to go in the 12v to 24v direction for a total of 10amps
Greg or Stone can probably provide the specific tech behind it. I think i would look at the Downey cables first..

Sheldon
 
Patrick,

I would suggest you keep the elockers and hook them up rather than convert to cable lockers. As much as the cable lockers are simpler and more reliable to put them in on a truck that did not have them will be more work than hooking up the elockers. Elockers will work great if you take care of them.

Just curious here, where did you get your from. I have two sets of front elockers, high pinion, ehubs axles and we had a hard time figuring out what there were out of because they still have leaf spring purches on them, ultimately figured they were out of 7x series troopy or wagoon of some sort.

If you switch to manual hubs two of the bolts for mounting the hubs will not be used unless you remove the rest of the ehub wiring, should not be a big deal you just need to know it depends on how much you remove as to how close to stock you can make the manual hubs.

Cheers,

Michael
 
tlcruiserman said:
Patrick,

Just curious here, where did you get your from. I have two sets of front elockers, high pinion, ehubs axles and we had a hard time figuring out what there were out of because they still have leaf spring purches on them, ultimately figured they were out of 7x series troopy or wagoon of some sort.

Cheers,

Michael

Here:http://www.gscruiserparts.com/misc.html

Yes, the Solar Converter will work both ways. Hook up the black to ground and red to 24V and the white gives 12V at 20 amps. Hook up the black to ground, the white to 12V and the red will give 24V at 10amps.

gb
 
Some minitruck guys have complained about Downey's cable locker conversion for the front axle. They say the mechanism hits their spring pack, but theirs is factory SOA, ours is SUA, unless you've made yours SOA. I think the better method is to use 24V to switch them, if that is possible.

The manual lockout hub can be bolted on, but the wheel hub only has four studs. The location for the 3rd and 6th studs are used for the wires. Consider using FROR's ARP studs in place of the stockers or use a minitruck/40/60 wheelhub instead. I don't know if tapping the wire holes and putting a larger stud e.g. 100 series studs is possible.

Rebuild kits can be bought from GScruiserparts or Liquid Off Road. Only the knuckle wipers are specific. The bearings and gaskets from a 40/60/minitruck can be used, the seals are the same as in the 80 series. Brake pads and calipers are the same as the 1988+ V6 minitruck/4Runner.

Dave
 
Thanks for the input guys. If I go with 24v to 12v solar converter what else will I need to get them to work on my FJ55? I've seen references to Diff lock computers and ECUs which doesn't sound like fun to deal with. If I keep them electric then I'll probably leave the e-Hubs on there. I'll be back on when I get them down to Texas and get ready to put them under my FJ55.

Thanks again,

Patrick
 
i hooked up the elec in the back of my 75 using a 3 way toggle spring loaded to center.
hold up for 3 sec for on, hold down for 3 sec for off...
do not hold too long or good bye motor...
cheers
 
beanz2 said:
Some minitruck guys have complained about Downey's cable locker conversion for the front axle. They say the mechanism hits their spring pack, but theirs is factory SOA, ours is SUA, unless you've made yours SOA. I think the better method is to use 24V to switch them, if that is possible.

The manual lockout hub can be bolted on, but the wheel hub only has four studs. The location for the 3rd and 6th studs are used for the wires. Consider using FROR's ARP studs in place of the stockers or use a minitruck/40/60 wheelhub instead. I don't know if tapping the wire holes and putting a larger stud e.g. 100 series studs is possible.

Rebuild kits can be bought from GScruiserparts or Liquid Off Road. Only the knuckle wipers are specific. The bearings and gaskets from a 40/60/minitruck can be used, the seals are the same as in the 80 series. Brake pads and calipers are the same as the 1988+ V6 minitruck/4Runner.

Dave

I spoke with one of the guys in Cali running the cable locker and he ended up putting a hurst shifter unit with a much firmer spring and found it solved the problem.

Rob
 

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