HVAC Trouble 2002 Land Cruiser (1 Viewer)

[stp715a]

First, thank you in advance to anyone that can offer some help or insight to my problem.

Am the original owner of a 2002 Land Cruiser with 82K miles now. AC stopped working. Gas pressure is good. AC diagnostic code is 47 but the following tests fail:
COMPRESSOR LOCK SENSOR RESISTANCE reads 10K ohm.
Clutch energizing test:
Connect the positive (+) lead from the battery to terminal 3 and the negative (-) lead to the body ground. The clutch does nothing. Should it visibly engage (pull back into the compressor)?

Other questions: Does engage mean the clutch will pull in? When the engine is started the AC lights blink. When pushing the AC on button the clutch will infrequently grind and then cut off (approximately 1 out of 6-8 attempts). A single time when the AC initially stopped when pushing the on button it worked and blasted normal cold air.

Does this point to a bad clutch, compressor, or will the clutch have the symptoms if the rear amplifier (Error code 47) is the problem?

Based upon the FSM the clutch failed and the compressor failed but given the single error code 47, and the occasional clutch grinding noise I'm a bit confused on where to go next.

Also, the FSM does not have the DI-1309 procedure anywhere i can find.

Have an auto oscilloscope. Are there any signal tests I should conduct.

Other than this AC problem and a new alternator (what a PITA!) the car has been bullet proof. Thankfully this group's posts were invaluable in changing the alternator.

Really appreciate any help.

Thank you.

 

[YardPig]

Can you engage the clutch on the dash and then flick/press the compressor clutch with a eraser end of a pencil to kick start it? It may be the air gap is too wide and only intermittently grabbing when magnetized. In reality you could do this by magnetizing it manually and pushing and/or turning the clutch plate and see if it grabs.

 

[stp715a]

Thank you for the idea. Yes tried to push clutch in while directly powering with "Connect the positive (+) lead from the battery to terminal 3 and the negative (-) lead to the body ground." Still does not engage. The clutch will turn freely by hand when engine is not started. If I remove the serpentine belt and turn the nut on the clutch/compressor should the nut turn fairly easily? If not does that mean the compressor is seized?

 

[YardPig]

Are you sure the system is not overcharged?

Does the pulley the belt rides on turn freely when you spin it with no belt, or when the engine is running?

It sure sounds like a clutch issue if you can not apply 12v power and have it lock the pulley to turn the compressor.

 

[stp715a]

Sure not overcharged. Never been charged since 2002 but ran really cool when this first started a couple of days OK. Have not taken belt off yet but spins freely when engine running. Clutch will intermittently engage with engine running but then AS cuts off. Sometimes grinding sound from clutch when engaged. Most of the time clutch will not engage at all with engine and AC on. Yeah I have been thinking clutch too but AC error code 47 and the resistance test are throwing me off. Wondering if the speed sensor and clutch are bad with the rear amp (rpm computer) increasing the resistance to pins 1 and 2 of clutch connector or if just the clutch is bad and resistance stays high since AC cannot develop and RPM. If not for the error 47 and high speed sensor resistance it would certainly point to the clutch.

Have a Ford Super Duty diesel that threw out all kind of codes that had nothing to do with the injector high voltage computer but that turned out to be the only problem. Full of water! Guess with 50-150 micros in these vehicles they can get confused. Funny, called Ford and asked them if they knew why this would fill with water and they basically told me it was none of my business (proprietary engineering info).

 

[YardPig]

Those Ford IDM's full of water are always entertaining when you pull them out and give them a shake. Sloshy sloshy.

As for the Cruiser I think your over thinking it. If it's grinding from the clutch there is a problem with the clutch or the bearing in the compressor. That needs to be sorted out first. Possibly it is undercharged and the pressure switch is commanding the compressor to not turn on. If some of the refrigerant has leaked out, so has some PAG oil, the only form of lubricant.
If the problem is centered around a bad clutch, you could pull the clutch, put it on the bench and do some trouble shooting there of the electromagnetic portion.
I don't believe you can buy the clutch separately in the aftermarket, I'm sure Toyota you can for a price.