HVAC slowly died.... (3 Viewers)

[LXinOBX]

Apologies if this is an oft discussed/posted issue, but multiple searches brought up zippo

About a month ago, our 2010 LX wasn't blowing cold out of front vents, but the rear was blowing cold...after running at 60MPH for a few more minutes it started blowing "normally"

A few nights ago, taking a few folks out to dinner, the same symptoms started again....but this time the rear was not blowing cold...the remainder of the 30 min drive to dinner and the drive home the AC never blew cold. It may have been ongoing, but as I typically drive short trips and have all the windows open (but the "auto" switched engaged) I just don't know.

I read, but now cannot find, a diagnostic, something where you depress two of the HVAC dash buttons and then start the truck...supposed to throw codes?

Appreciate any advice - about to take a long drive and while I'm fine w open windows, I have two pups, one 13, that would really prefer to travel in a cooled rear area (one of those times my previous (72, 80 and 100) sliding/pivoting rear windows were soooo awesome for pups)!

 

[Sandroad]

There’s quite a bit of info in this thread that may help, including a video on the HVAC codes a few posts down.

S

Thread 'HVAC problems on 200 Series'

Jun 16, 2024

I am having problems with my 09 200 HVAC. From startup after sitting a while (varies) temps default to 75 on both sides. I can set lower temps and AC works fine. Also upon startup the Auto is on but no temps show up on screen. After a bit, 30 to 60 seconds the auto goes out, If I turn auto on temps show up and fans start and all is well. This has just showed up in the last month or so. Does the HVAC have a memory battery that could be dead?

• SteveL
• Replies: 8
• Forum: 200-Series Cruisers

 

[LXinOBX]

There’s quite a bit of info in this thread that may help, including a video on the HVAC codes a few posts down.

S

Thread 'HVAC problems on 200 Series'

Jun 16, 2024

I am having problems with my 09 200 HVAC. From startup after sitting a while (varies) temps default to 75 on both sides. I can set lower temps and AC works fine. Also upon startup the Auto is on but no temps show up on screen. After a bit, 30 to 60 seconds the auto goes out, If I turn auto on temps show up and fans start and all is well. This has just showed up in the last month or so. Does the HVAC have a memory battery that could be dead?

• SteveL
• Replies: 8
• Forum: 200-Series Cruisers

Many thanks! I just ran the diagnostic and codes 21, 23 and 24 appeared. Looks like 24 "might" have been due to the sunshade being place.

21 ( the blend door actuator) and 23 (faulty pressure switch or refrigerant pressure) on the other hand, are a bit more challenging. Does anyone know if low refrigerant (23) why is the 21 code presented? And vice versa? Unless both broke at the same time?

Trying to sort this myself (and y'alls help) as no service spots within a fair distance of where the truck is.

 

[bloc]

Many thanks! I just ran the diagnostic and codes 21, 23 and 24 appeared. Looks like 24 "might" have been due to the sunshade being place.

21 ( the blend door actuator) and 23 (faulty pressure switch or refrigerant pressure) on the other hand, are a bit more challenging. Does anyone know if low refrigerant (23) why is the 21 code presented? And vice versa? Unless both broke at the same time?

Trying to sort this myself (and y'alls help) as no service spots within a fair distance of where the truck is.

If you have corrosion it's worth checking the refrigerant lines where they go through the floor of the vehicle into the rear HVAC box. Common place for leaks on rust belt vehicles, and usually it can be identified without special tools.. the compressor oil that escapes with the refrigerant will make it somewhat obvious.

Basically get under the rear of the vehicle and look upward near the rear exhaust muffler/resonator. You'll see two silver pipes, one thin one thick, going into a couple chunks of aluminum which are the disconnection points. Those chunks are where the leaks usually develop. Some grime is to be expected, but if there's an oily mess dripping from one of those fittings you probably have a leak there.

 

[LXinOBX]

If you have corrosion it's worth checking the refrigerant lines where they go through the floor of the vehicle into the rear HVAC box. Common place for leaks on rust belt vehicles, and usually it can be identified without special tools.. the compressor oil that escapes with the refrigerant will make it somewhat obvious.

Basically get under the rear of the vehicle and look upward near the rear exhaust muffler/resonator. You'll see two silver pipes, one thin one thick, going into a couple chunks of aluminum which are the disconnection points. Those chunks are where the leaks usually develop. Some grime is to be expected, but if there's an oily mess dripping from one of those fittings you probably have a leak there.

Will take a look, excellent idea...my 100 suffered the same fate...

And, this truck while not rust, belt does see a bunch of ocean air. So much so that one of the AHC lines corroded through about 70k miles ago

Appreciate you @bloc

 

[LXinOBX]

Quick update...a bud had a AC charging "kit"....freon was low, not empty, but low. As filling heard the compressor kick in, and, cold air. Now will it hold? Dunno....if not, once I get to a lift I'll definitely check out the rear ac box (couldn't "see" any freon seepage during the fill).

My bud did say that toyota compressors, over time, can "weep" out freon and that a refill might last another 200k miles, if that's the issue.

Regardless, appreciate the help/advice; Happy Friday!

 

[Adrenaline6]

I had the same problem awhile back, but in reverse. Front was fine, but the rear was starting to get warmer. Refilled...problem solved.