Hungry Valley trip and the things I learned

[uberhahn]

should stop unless you've got ZERO pressure. There's the loss of vacuum assist, and there's loss of actual brake line pressure.

Given that your cap leaked, once you are able to root cause, it would be prudent to bleed the system for any air in the lines.

As far as replicating, you shouldn't need to find an incline (that would only test the hypthesis of a bad seal on the cap). Is there an opportunity to be moving forward (slowly), in neutral, engine off? Try to compare that performance (pedal travel/pressure) to standard operation with engine on.

 

[NLXTACY]

Given that your cap leaked, once you are able to root cause, it would be prudent to bleed the system for any air in the lines.

No no no, the POWER STEERING cap leaked, the brake fluid reservoir was fine.

 

[NLXTACY]

Thanks B

Uploaded the FSM page for clarity.

 

[NLXTACY]

I feel I also need to report that one of my new GAUCHO cupholders failed:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/275413-80-series-tranny-cupholders.html

I had two and the one without the frosty beverage bounced off and ended up on the floor

Note: Yes this is my way of bringing attention to GAUCHO's 80 series cupholders which kick ass.

 

[hawaiicruz]

Tires


P.S. whats the coolant mod

 

[Beowulf]

This is the check valve that must be working correctly to hold vacuum in the brake booster. It has a p/n so Dan should be able to get you one if yours tests bad. That part's whole purpose in life is to keep a vacuum in the booster in the event the engine stalls. You say that you had no brakes when the engine stalled so start here and work your way to the vacuum source.

-B-

 

[NLXTACY]

Tires


P.S. whats the coolant mod

Tires wouldn't make me roll backwards at a high rate of speed. For the coolant mod you need to click the link and read up

Saved my ass on a few occasions now. It actually went off again last week and found yet another failed clamp. So I ordered ALL new hoses from CDAN and I ordered $200 worth of Breeze Constant Torque clamps to hopefully get rid of that issue.

 

[NLXTACY]

This is the check valve that must be working correctly to hold vacuum when the engine stalls. It has a p/n so Dan should be able to get you one if yours tests bad. That part's whole purpose in life is to keep a vacuum in the booster in the event the engine stalls. You say that you had no brakes when the engine stalled so start here and work your way to the vacuum source.

-B-

Yeah I am going to go through and check all of it. I ordered ALL of the vacuum hoses as well as coolant hoses from CDAN already so maybe this is a good time to change out all the hoses and start pin pointing.

 

[groucho]

I feel I also need to report that one of my new GROUCHO cupholders failed:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/275413-80-series-tranny-cupholders.html

I had two and the one without the frosty beverage bounced off and ended up on the floor

Note: Yes this is my way of bringing attention to GROUCHO's 80 series cupholders which kick ass.

Glad to see that everyone was alright after pucker-factor 101 was over. I know what it feels like to be in a situation like that with the little ones in the car. Brings a new meaning to the words "I'll give my life for theirs, just make it safe".

On a lighter note, the laws of physics seem to still be working. Empty cup-holder--on the floor. Cup-holder with frosty (kool-aide, not barley) beverage inside--holds as intended.

 

[Clutchee]

What gear were you in?

For instance Transmission in 1st & Case in Low......?

Curious, wife's has had hers on 3 wheel a few times with the front end to far in the air for me & she asked if she could drive out of it

 

[mainemike]

Here is a picture of the check valve removed from the booster. It isn't shown specifically in the FSM, although you can decipher it from the 'check valve bracket'.

The check valve itself is a plastic insert on the booster end, it slides open about 4mm and appears to be spring loaded.

I had mine replaced last winter when I was consistently loosing all brake in sub-zero temps prior to warm-up. Using MUD, it became the prime suspect, even though it seems to work fine when it was warmed up, and it worked fine on a bench test as far as blowing air through it. A new one did resolve the cold temp no brake issue, so I assume it was icing up, either the spring or plastic valve part.

I suppose the check valve could be your problem, or part of it, but I don't understand how it would be affected by slope angle alone.

 

[NLXTACY]

Ah yes forgot that tidbit of info. I was on 4LOW and first gear.

What gear were you in?

For instance Transmission in 1st & Case in Low......?

Curious, wife's has had hers on 3 wheel a few times with the front end to far in the air for me & she asked if she could drive out of it

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Mine will stall out every once in a while on steep hill climbs... But we are talking really steep, like the front tires are touching just enought to where you can't see under them. However, I always have the CDL on and usually I have the transmission in L (not drive). It will stall when I have made it as far as I'm gonna make it and I go to stop. I have never had a problem with the truck rolling, it will just die when I'm off the throttle and mash the brakes. By this time, my truck is stopped but the engine has died. I can shift into N, start the truck, shift into R and slowly lower myself back down.

FWIW, my 1985 4Runner used to do this too. It had a 22RE and a 5-speed.

 

[NLXTACY]

So I was talking to my wife about the whole incident over IM this morning. Here is a transcript of our conversation:

Jessi: "so what happened to my running board? It looks like you landed on a VW bug"

Joey: "Well, the truck stalled on a steep trail and I freefalled going backwards"

Jessi: "Was that the only damage?"

Joey: "Yeah, that I could see anyway. It was scary though, I was afraid I was going to roll it"

Jessi: "Not the end of the world if you did. Just means we get a new truck"

Joey: "You mean you wouldn't be pissed at me for totaling the truck?"

Jessi: "Why would I be pissed? You can part out the truck then right? As long as you don't kill our son whatever else happens happens"

Joey: "Don't you mean as long as I don't kill myself, our son and the dog...."

Jessi: "Um...its a dog and you have life insurance. So what I am trying to say is make sure our son comes back in one piece"

Joey: "Thanks honey I feel the love"

Jessi: "I do love you"

 

[NLXTACY]

Thats what I don't get. I will be replacing this stuff regardless. Its been 226k miles, maybe its time.

Here is a picture of the check valve removed from the booster. It isn't shown specifically in the FSM, although you can decipher it from the 'check valve bracket'.

The check valve itself is a plastic insert on the booster end, it slides open about 4mm and appears to be spring loaded.

I had mine replaced last winter when I was consistently loosing all brake in sub-zero temps prior to warm-up. Using MUD, it became the prime suspect, even though it seems to work fine when it was warmed up, and it worked fine on a bench test as far as blowing air through it. A new one did resolve the cold temp no brake issue, so I assume it was icing up, either the spring or plastic valve part.

I suppose the check valve could be your problem, or part of it, but I don't understand how it would be affected by slope angle alone.

 

[NLXTACY]

Yeah see that is what I expect to be happening and I would have been fine with it.

And yes to confirm I was in 4LOW and 1st gear (L)

Mine will stall out every once in a while on steep hill climbs... But we are talking really steep, like the front tires are touching just enought to where you can't see under them. However, I always have the CDL on and usually I have the transmission in L (not drive). It will stall when I have made it as far as I'm gonna make it and I go to stop. I have never had a problem with the truck rolling, it will just die when I'm off the throttle and mash the brakes. By this time, my truck is stopped but the engine has died. I can shift into N, start the truck, shift into R and slowly lower myself back down.

FWIW, my 1985 4Runner used to do this too. It had a 22RE and a 5-speed.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

You just need to make sure you stop before the engine dies! LOL

Also remember, I wheel with 2 feet. The brakes are full on by the time the throttle is fully off. If that makes sense.

 

[NLXTACY]

You just need to make sure you stop before the engine dies! LOL

Ohhh THATS WHAT I DID WRONG!

 

[alia176]

Well I will tell you that this was definitely a learning experience. Normally I always have CDL on but this time just plain forgot. So its good to actually KNOW for sure what happens when CDL is off. No anecdotal evidence here

This is the side effect of having done the pin #7 mod. I have found myself in the same exact scenario (no engine stalling, just tire spinning and asking myself WTF) more times than I care to admit. One of these days I'm going to undo this mod and go back to stock.

For those you haven't done this mod: after doing this mod, if you put the Tcase in LOW, the CDL does NOT engage automatically unless you push in the CDL switch (that you install, harness is already present in the dash).

Carry on.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

So true... I've gone through rock gardens in AWD Low and never realized it until I was trying to climb the last two rocks. Usually someone I'm with says "why aren't you using your lockers?" I look down and the diff locks are just flashing at me.