Hub studs

[itbrokeagain]

I am tired of constantly snapping them. I am running 60 hubs up front because of my lockrite. I went with trailgears arp studs and they lasted 3 trail rides. What are my solutions?
38 inch tires and stock engine.

 

[JTU]

Try using a drive flange from a company that uses more than two studs on the hub.

RCV makes a drive flange that puts a stud in between each bolt on the hub.

 

[nukegoat]

drill and tap for 3/8-24 or 7/16-20 bolts. You need greater clamping forces, not shear strength.

 

[itbrokeagain]

drill and tap for 3/8-24 or 7/16-20 bolts. You need greater clamping forces, not shear strength.

That's what I was thinking as well. But if I get rid of the cone washers will that be a problem?

 

[nukegoat]

That's what I was thinking as well. But if I get rid of the cone washers will that be a problem?

Cone washers are great, but offer more value in terms of repeatable alignment and removing all potential slop. Pretty much indispensable for a steering arm but far less critical for a drive flange. So, yeah, I'd love to keep cone washers too but you can live without them.

Not knocking the dowel pin mods, it'll work too for different reasons

 

[itbrokeagain]

That's a whole other issue. Broke both of the dowel pins off too. I'm thinking I will start with the 3/8 bolts and go from there

 

[mudgudgeon]

Another option is drill and tap deeper holes in the hub and run long socket head cap screws.
keep the cone washers, they increase the clamping force.
You can use 50mm SHCS which gives you grade 10.9 or better, and also a straight 8mm shank at the shear point, not a thread.
Also drill out for 8mm dowel pins (used in 100series hubs).
Clearance the holes in the hub for the straight shank, 8mm hole to the depth of the embedded straight shank.

 

[itbrokeagain]

Isn't it already an 8mm bolt? M8x1.25. The first little bit it tapered out so it would have to be larger than 8mm or am I thinking wrong on this?

 

[inkpot]

I am tired of constantly snapping them. I am running 60 hubs up front because of my lockrite. I went with trailgears arp studs and they lasted 3 trail rides. What are my solutions?
38 inch tires and stock engine.

Have you been tightening the the nuts down to torque spec on the Arp studs?

 

[NLXTACY]

Diamond flanges from Front Range
Diamond Axle Drive Flanges and ARP Hub Stud Set

 

[itbrokeagain]

Everytime I go out Wheeling. I check those, check rear axle shaft studs, knuckle studs, and I also found out I need to check my third members as well. I tried to do this all at least one more time throughout the weekend.

Have you been tightening the the nuts down to torque spec on the Arp studs?

 

[itbrokeagain]

That won't work for me. I have a fulltime locker up front. I used locking hubs from a 60 so I can still drive it if I choose. Also a side note........ the arp studs from front range are significantly cheaper than arp studs from train gear. Wish I had gone that route

Diamond flanges from Front Range
Diamond Axle Drive Flanges and ARP Hub Stud Set

 

[nukegoat]

keep the cone washers, they increase the clamping force.

Uhhh

 

[surfpig]

Aftermarket axle shafts?

 

[itbrokeagain]

Just got off the phone with @beno. Going to try 105 series stuff. Steps me up to a m10 stud and hardware. We will see what happens. I am far from easy on it so I will find the next weak link

 

[itbrokeagain]

I went with nitros long ago. So far they have been perfect

Aftermarket axle shafts?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Isn't it already an 8mm bolt? M8x1.25. The first little bit it tapered out so it would have to be larger than 8mm or am I thinking wrong on this?

The hubs are drilled and tapped for an 8mm stud. To use longer SHCS drill an tap the hole deeper. Drill out the first 1/2" or so so the straight 8mm shank is embedded into the hub.
Shear load is then applied to a full 8mm shank, not to the root of a reduced thickness thread. The weakest part of the stud (thread root) is taking all the shear load at the shear point between hub and flange

 

[jehx]

This...

Rear Axle Hub Stud and Dowel Pin Upgrade

 

[mudgudgeon]

Just got off the phone with @beno. Going to try 105 series stuff. Steps me up to a m10 stud and hardware. We will see what happens. I am far from easy on it so I will find the next weak link

105s had a larger diameter hub and flange, also different PCD on stud spacing, flanges aren't interchangeable.
I think using 10mm hardware will possibly leave the washer and nut protruding over the edge of the flange. May be an issue with wheel fitment? I'm not certain, long time since I looked at this.
Also, drilling out the 8mm hole in the flanges to 10mm leaves very little taper for 105s cone washers to seat into.

 

[jehx]

That's what a drilled out rear shaft looks like. I wouldn't be comfortable running it...