on my '69 FJ40? Mine got bent pretty badly. It looks like it would be better to swap out the frame instead of an entire door (simpler and cheaper). Has anyone who has done this got any pointers for me? Thanks!
How tough to replace the upper door frame (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 4mydogs
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Fairly easy, just watch the window.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
I have never had to tear one apart but don't you need remove the plug below the vent window and take the nut and spring off first? As far as being easier than replacing the whole door I doubt it is. Removed the bolt holding the door limiter. Remove the six bolts on the hinge. Push the door handle and remove the door. Fit the door in place installed the six door hinge bolts snug. Adjust the door to where it needs to be and finish tighting the bolts. Install th bolt on the limiter.
On the upper section removal what is the best loction to have the window when removing? Up, down or somewhere in the middle? Thinking just off the bottom a little so most the door is still inside the lower section but enough showing when installing the upper track on the glass.
On the upper section removal what is the best loction to have the window when removing? Up, down or somewhere in the middle? Thinking just off the bottom a little so most the door is still inside the lower section but enough showing when installing the upper track on the glass.
GregRay
Old Member
I've had to remove mine (when replacing all the door/window weatherstripping and a sticking regulator). It isn't hard, but it is somewhat time-consuming.
You do indeed have to remove the plug below the vent window and disconnect that mechanism. You basically remove every screw and handle that holds the frame in place, then pull it up and out (carefully so you don't break the window).
Be careful to note which screws go into which holes (there are different lengths); if you don't, after reassembly the window glass will hit the longer screws.
You do indeed have to remove the plug below the vent window and disconnect that mechanism. You basically remove every screw and handle that holds the frame in place, then pull it up and out (carefully so you don't break the window).
Be careful to note which screws go into which holes (there are different lengths); if you don't, after reassembly the window glass will hit the longer screws.
Where are you located? I'm smack dab in the rust belt and 90% of the screws on my passanger side door had to be removed using a sacrificial bolt and my mig welder.
It took me about two hours to tear mine down completely. Aslo watch out when trying to remove the plastic cover which allows you access to the vent window nuts. Mine was as brittle as hell and I took a nice chunk out of the side of it.
It took me about two hours to tear mine down completely. Aslo watch out when trying to remove the plastic cover which allows you access to the vent window nuts. Mine was as brittle as hell and I took a nice chunk out of the side of it.
I thought if you open the wing window all the way it allowed you to pull the frame out without messing with the hardware behind the plug. Or do you have to do this if you take the hardware off too? Can't remember.
by the time you deal with the gasket and the felt runner you may be better off buying a used door.buy one without the hardware and swap yours over.a lot of folks are building half doors so maybey the top half would be cheaper in the long run.
Not too bad
Just got through doing full resto on my brothers rig and rebuilt boh doors. The procedure is this. Take the plug out to allow access to the bolt/spring mechanism for the wing window. Take off the chrome block (2 screws) that retain the top part of the wing window. Do NOT lose those screws. They are of a near impossible to find screw pitch. Okay, take off the access cover( then one with the X on it) and unbolt the window regulator. If you can wiggle the regulator out at this time fine, if not don't sweat it. Now unbolt the 10 screws that hold the top window frame to the main section of the door. I believe that 4 of these bolts are longer that the other and the previous post was correct in that if you mix them up it will foul the window, so make a template and stick em in. Note: two bolts are in the inside lip of the door. Now the top half simply pulls straight up and out. I find that halving the window in roughfly the middle position works best for both seperating and reattaching the pieces. Replace any seals/felts at this time while you are at it. Not too bad of a job, just a little patience. Good luck!
Just got through doing full resto on my brothers rig and rebuilt boh doors. The procedure is this. Take the plug out to allow access to the bolt/spring mechanism for the wing window. Take off the chrome block (2 screws) that retain the top part of the wing window. Do NOT lose those screws. They are of a near impossible to find screw pitch. Okay, take off the access cover( then one with the X on it) and unbolt the window regulator. If you can wiggle the regulator out at this time fine, if not don't sweat it. Now unbolt the 10 screws that hold the top window frame to the main section of the door. I believe that 4 of these bolts are longer that the other and the previous post was correct in that if you mix them up it will foul the window, so make a template and stick em in. Note: two bolts are in the inside lip of the door. Now the top half simply pulls straight up and out. I find that halving the window in roughfly the middle position works best for both seperating and reattaching the pieces. Replace any seals/felts at this time while you are at it. Not too bad of a job, just a little patience. Good luck!
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
It should probably be pointed out the plastic cap is no longer available unless someone has started making them after market. Here in AZ rust is less of a issue but dried up brittle plastic is bigger problem than most other places in the US. For this reason I don't remove any plastic piece I don't have to.
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Thanks, everyone. Going to give it a go.
Why the upper frame instead of the door? Doors cost more, and the ones I've seen are very rough and shells only, so I would have to transfer everything from the old into the "new." Plus, painting an entire door as opposed to just the frame. It seems like doing just the frame is the way to go.
Thanks again, especially for the step by step.
Why the upper frame instead of the door? Doors cost more, and the ones I've seen are very rough and shells only, so I would have to transfer everything from the old into the "new." Plus, painting an entire door as opposed to just the frame. It seems like doing just the frame is the way to go.
Thanks again, especially for the step by step.
Easy to do. Plastic caps aren't hard to find here in Canada... They're all covered by upholstered inner panels.
You don't have to remove the plastic cover to remove the window frame, just turn the vent window about 3/4 the way open, not quite alll the way, and the cam will clear the lip of the door.. There is also a plate welded to the channel just below the lip of the door that will hang up as you pull the frame out. I had to use a flexible putty knife blade to slide the plate past the lip.
Use lots of penetrating oil and some heat to coax the nuts off the vent window spindle. Be very carefull you don't twist off the spindle. By the way, Specter has aftermarket plastic plugs.
Good luck.
Use lots of penetrating oil and some heat to coax the nuts off the vent window spindle. Be very carefull you don't twist off the spindle. By the way, Specter has aftermarket plastic plugs.
Good luck.
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