How to use fluid film (1 Viewer)

[Lcerva]

Hey All,

I know this sounds like a dumb question. But, before you rip me a new one, hear me out. It could be difficult for newbies to get their minds around even the simplest concepts. So, my question focuses around a few things that I have seen with similar anti rust products.

how should fluid film be used?
Are there certain materials that I should avoid contact with fluid film?
can it be used on moving parts?
is there any pre-treatment I should do?
Is there any post-treatment I should do?
should I avoid using it on parts that exceed high temperatures?
How would I used it with por-15? does it go on before or after? How should it be applied?

Thanks for your time. If there is anything I missed please feel free to comment on it. I started spraying any rusted areas with fluid film but than I thought of possible hazards and started posting here. I’m pretty new to any kind of car maintenance as I’ve always had cars with warranties.

My LX470 seems to have been undercoated with a rubberized material. So I also wanted to find someone (in the nyc area) that will be able to remove the undercoat and retreat it with fluid film and por15. But, I’m not sure how to go about all of this. For now I’m trying to treat the small rusty areas on my own.

Thanks
Larry

 

[Leandro]

I used fluid film several times, it's a great product
some considerations:
If you have a rubberized coat, fluid film is completely unnecessary (also, I'd try to get rid of that thing)
You just need to wash the parts you want to cover to remove any lose debris/salt. Then just spray. It will stick to anything.
It's safe on rubber and moving parts, it will kill grass so be careful where you spray it.
Don't spray the exhaust, you'll hate the smell.
POR15 is a completely different animal, if you want to do POR15 also, fluid film would go on top of POR15, although I don't know how necessary would it be.

 

[MongooseGA]

I'd be very weary of what's behind the rubberized coating. In fact, I'd be reluctant to purchase a truck because of it. They can trap moisture behind that layer and actually perpetuate and accelerate rust. Have you poked all over the coated areas to be sure they're solid?

 

[white_lx]

how should fluid film be used?
Are there certain materials that I should avoid contact with fluid film?
can it be used on moving parts?
is there any pre-treatment I should do?
Is there any post-treatment I should do?

For years I had our vehicles Krown'ed (some more info here) After hearing good things about FF, I decided to try FF this year instead - and do it myself. Here is what I did.

Bought the Kellsport FF gun from Amazon and 1 Gallon FF locally. Removed spare tires and then washed and dried the vehicles. Next I sprayed the whole underside of the vehicle generously with FF. All spraying was done outside on a 10C (50F) dry clear day. Also sprayed FF into the frames using the supplied hoses. Next I coated the rim of the spare wheel generously and re-installed it. Since FF can be used as a tire gloss, I don't think it would be a problem to coat the spare wheel and they always take a beating in the winter time.

After treating the undercarriage, I removed all plugs installed by Krown and shot a large amount of FF through each hole. Unfortunately the supplied hoses are too large for this job, so I just stuck the nozzle of the gun into the hole and sprayed for about 15 seconds. Since the gun shoots pretty far and because FF is pretty mobile, I suspect it will make it way into all crevices over time. Then I reinstalled the plugs using some FF and an small brush to coat drilled hole to prevent rusting in the future (Krown does this too).

When it was all said and done, I used about 1-1/2 quart per vehicle and it took about 1 hr per vehicle (taking my time). A few weeks later I installed snow tires and coated the rims with a FF as well - before installing. Not sure how long it will hold up, but it should at least protect the 'pockets' on the back side of the rim.

So far, I'm pretty happy with the results. After first snowfall and driving through rain, I think it holds up better than Krown on the undercarriage. But since it is a very simple job and I have all the equipment, I can now easily touch up on a dry day in the winter.

Post-treatment: anecdotally a lot of people drive their vehicle over a dirt road after undercoating with Krown to thicken it up. I'm not sure if that is required or beneficial for FF.

 

[uHu]

For Por15 to work (or any rust converter), you have to use a strong de-greaser and clean very carefully and thoroughly. No remnants of oil, fat or salt. Prepping is the key. That means that Fluid Film, which sticks and creeps very well, should be kept well away until after any Posr15 treatment, but then you can put on as much as you like.

Fluid Film can be applied anywhere, except on brakes' friction surfaces or anywhere near it. What ends up on exhaust or engine will burn off. FF "crawls" in all directions, also up the painted sides of the body. Best to polish the car first, which will prevent creeping. Normal FF put inside the wheel wells will be washed away, so there is a thicker version, and also "grease trimming" - a profile to attach to the edge of the fender filled, with FF sticky grease; if you don't mind the look of it.
Because of it's "creepyness", FF could end up on the brakes if you're not careful.

The rubberized coating you have becomes a rust trap over the years. FF will help it to soften a bit again and thereby work better. FF will also creep in wherever there is a crack, and make it easier to remove the coating where it is not in a good state attached to solid steel. Make sure you put plenty inside the frame rails, doors, fenders and all nooks and crannies. E.g. in the rear fenders (wings), use a long applicator in through the tail light openings, all the way forward to the wheel wells. Remove "heaps" of dirt first, e.g. lodged inside fenders. The frame rails are best cleaned inside with a pressure washer with a sewer jetter (or whatever it's called, the hose thingy with a head with jets in several directions).

FF affects some rubber parts a bit. What I've seen is that door seals swell minimally, make them seal better, no probs. I have a suspicion that rubber bushing on the suspension swell a bit, especially the axially compressed cushions on the sway bar links. Other rubber parts don't seem to mind. I also have a suspicion that the little plastic tabs on the side indicators (maybe not present on US trucks?) and the license lights, broke soon after starting with FF. But the new lamps I put in have held up nice for 4-5 years now.

 

[white_lx]

Fluid Film can be applied anywhere, except on brakes' friction surfaces or anywhere near it. What ends up on exhaust or engine will burn off.

One of the issues I had with Krown is that they are 'safe applicators'. They stay away from the knuckles to prevent rotor overspray. As a result the dust shields started to rust. I was able to spray the inside of all rotor dust shields and hubs without any problems. Same with exhaust areas - including frames over the exhaust. Krown stays away from those because customers might complain about the smoke/smell for the first few miles. I'll take some overspray on the exhaust over rusty frames.

 

[mojo1848]

I bought the the 6 rattle cans with the extension wand off Amazon. Pre treatment, spayed down and washed the under carriage. Since I do not have access to a lift of stands, I sprayed down all accessible frame and exposed metal on the undercarriage. I avoided the brakes and attempted to avoid the exhaust as much as possible. The over spray that got on the exhaust burns off and the smell isn't too bad. I then used the extension wand to get inside the frame openings. The nozzle is pretty slick.
Overall, the Fluid Film application is straight forward and painless. I would suggest wearing eye protection and a dust mask.
The product sticks to the frame nicely. There is a smell associated with the product, but wears off after a few days.
We will see how good of a coverage job I did next summer.

 

[Lcerva]

I'd be very weary of what's behind the rubberized coating. In fact, I'd be reluctant to purchase a truck because of it. They can trap moisture behind that layer and actually perpetuate and accelerate rust. Have you poked all over the coated areas to be sure they're solid?

The undercoat seems to have been done very well. However, there are some parts that have seemed to have had some advanced rusting. Overall they did a good thoRough job. It was undercoated before I purchased it so I don’t know how it looked before.

For Por15 to work (or any rust converter), you have to use a strong de-greaser and clean very carefully and thoroughly. No remnants of oil, fat or salt. Prepping is the key. That means that Fluid Film, which sticks and creeps very well, should be kept well away until after any Posr15 treatment, but then you can put on as much as you like.

Fluid Film can be applied anywhere, except on brakes' friction surfaces or anywhere near it. What ends up on exhaust or engine will burn off. FF "crawls" in all directions, also up the painted sides of the body. Best to polish the car first, which will prevent creeping. Normal FF put inside the wheel wells will be washed away, so there is a thicker version, and also "grease trimming" - a profile to attach to the edge of the fender filled, with FF sticky grease; if you don't mind the look of it.
Because of it's "creepyness", FF could end up on the brakes if you're not careful.

The rubberized coating you have becomes a rust trap over the years. FF will help it to soften a bit again and thereby work better. FF will also creep in wherever there is a crack, and make it easier to remove the coating where it is not in a good state attached to solid steel. Make sure you put plenty inside the frame rails, doors, fenders and all nooks and crannies. E.g. in the rear fenders (wings), use a long applicator in through the tail light openings, all the way forward to the wheel wells. Remove "heaps" of dirt first, e.g. lodged inside fenders. The frame rails are best cleaned inside with a pressure washer with a sewer jetter (or whatever it's called, the hose thingy with a head with jets in several directions).

FF affects some rubber parts a bit. What I've seen is that door seals swell minimally, make them seal better, no probs. I have a suspicion that rubber bushing on the suspension swell a bit, especially the axially compressed cushions on the sway bar links. Other rubber parts don't seem to mind. I also have a suspicion that the little plastic tabs on the side indicators (maybe not present on US trucks?) and the license lights, broke soon after starting with FF. But the new lamps I put in have held up nice for 4-5 years now.

When I purchased the vehicle I was a newbie and didn’t think to look for these things. I am learning as I go. The truck is in good condition for its age so I want to take care of it as best as I can. I do want to remove the undercoat and reapply por15 the correct way. But I need to find someone to do this for me.
I will try to keep the FF away from any rubber pieces as well.
From what you guys are saying FF is very strait forward. Just clean, dry and apply. POR15 adds another step that I will not be able to do my self.
The real issue I seem to have is that the rubberized undercoat can be a problem in the future. It is relatively new and solid and this will be the first winter with the undercoat. So I may have a couple of years before I have to worry. However, the sooner it is off the better I will feel about it.