How to test cluster gauges? 3.4W test bulb set up? (Per manual) (1 Viewer)

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So looking in my manual it wants me to set up a 3.4w test bulb to test function of my cluster guages....I have already read through some awesome gauge threads but not one takes someone through setting up the 3.4w bulb tester.

how would I go about putting together a functioning “tester” as the manual refers? I found a bulb but how to wire it I’m just not that electrical , maybe it’s easy but can someone explain how to make this tester. I see how to use it but making it is another thing to me.

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You may want to talk with @JVZii as he does nice restorations on the clusters. I would assume he tests them as well before putting back up for sale.
 
So here’s what I think ... I just get a 3.4w bulb to fit in one of the actual cluster light sockets and then wrap a ground wire over one contact and a power line to the other contact that comes from a 12v source

It’s just hard to find the 3.4w bulb I guess ... at least the one that fits for my socket. Maybe I just get a different socket - duh 🙄....just wanted to work with what I had ...

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The cluster gauges are powered from the cluster. Each of the sensors (fuel, temp, oil pressure) provide a ground path for the current that flows thru the gauge to make it move. The current that flows is modulated by the sensor. You can just ground the lead to the sensor but that will put your gauge in danger of burning it out. The 3.4w bulb provides a current limiting function. So to test the temperature gauge, you would disconnect the lead to the temp sensor, connect that lead to one side of the 3.4w bulb, then connect the other side of the 3.4w bulb to ground. This should cause the gauge to move.
 
The cluster gauges are powered from the cluster. Each of the sensors (fuel, temp, oil pressure) provide a ground path for the current that flows thru the gauge to make it move. The current that flows is modulated by the sensor. You can just ground the lead to the sensor but that will put your gauge in danger of burning it out. The 3.4w bulb provides a current limiting function. So to test the temperature gauge, you would disconnect the lead to the temp sensor, connect that lead to one side of the 3.4w bulb, then connect the other side of the 3.4w bulb to ground. This should cause the gauge to move.
Show me.....please.While you are at it teach me how to test electrical parts like heaters, and carb fans.
 
Show me.....please.While you are at it teach me how to test electrical parts like heaters, and carb fans.
I'd be happy to. Do you have anything in particular that you need help with? 87 to Fayetteville is a nice ride on the bike. Can stop for a dog at Melvin's in E-town. I need to swap out the final drive lube first.
 
I'd be happy to. Do you have anything in particular that you need help with? 87 to Fayetteville is a nice ride on the bike. Can stop for a dog at Melvin's in E-town. I need to swap out the final drive lube first.
Nice! Counter offer. I'll buy you lunch in Southport, as long as I can get oysters. Fishy Fishy is my standby.
 
coolerman knows-----look him up on mud---OY!
 
Ok so here’s where I’m at with this ...
I bought a socket / bulb / 12V battery with a battery thingy that has wire leads...

I have spliced on some alligator tester ends to the bulls and the battery....

here’s the problem I’m running into...

I have checked the battery - 12.4V so plenty of charge
I checked continuity between the wires I spliced on and everything is good - I get tone. Now when I check the continuity of the battery side obviously when there is no battery in the tray it will not pass the current so no tone for continuity - I expected once I put the battery in for there to be continuity and to be able to get the bulb to light up once I connected the power wires, but nothing ... what am I doing wrong?

Oh I didn’t ground it! - wait nothing still

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I did a similar method as above, instead used alligator leads straight off the cluster, one on each side of the board and connected to the bulb base. Using a multimeter as well can tell if voltage is coming in and then also verify how much it is illuminating.
 
Just verifying that your connections are good. Really all you need is the light bulb, you use the truck battery as the power source. I could be wrong but I don't think that little battery has the amperage required to drive a cluster meter.
 
Just verifying that your connections are good. Really all you need is the light bulb, you use the truck battery as the power source. I could be wrong but I don't think that little battery has the amperage required to drive a cluster meter.

yea your totally right - I got confused when reading about “have a 12V power supply” and a test light bulb ... so my mind went to separate 12V ... and figured any 12v would work - doh - newbie
 
ya its 3 W - but looking ast past thread they mentioned the 3W would do it for testing purposes
 

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