How to tell what front disk swap I have

[mike@dw]

Wanting to do the front and rear brakes on my 72. Front are disk and rear are drum. How do I tell what type of swap was done on the front? My guess would be they are from a late model 40 or maybe some other Toyota, 80's truck seems to be a good donor for front disks I have read.

What are some visual que's to what my front disks were donated from so that I can know what rotors and pads to get? If you think pics would help, just let me know

Also, I assume I can still get parts for the rear drums right?

Thanks!

 

[dgangle]

state what birfs (coarse/fine), knuckle pattern (big or small), what lockouts and if rotors are vented or solid. Pics certainly help.

 

[3_puppies]

might also be an aftermarket set up.

does it still have the drum brake backing plates with disc set up on front?

 

[mike@dw]

Thanks guys. I thought i would need to come with some more info/pics to get the assistance from you all I needed. Will get some pics and more info and report back this weekend.

Thanks!

 

[nspctr1]

is the steering arm cut? if so it may be a mini setup

 

[mike@dw]

let me know if this helps.

 

[dgangle]

pull a wheel and try again

 

[3_puppies]

pull a wheel and try again

X2 also looks like you need a few more allen head bolts in your hub.

 

[peesalot]

That appears to be a mini set up. If you guys look closely at the pic of caliper you can see the discs are vented. It is not one of the aftermarket drum conversion set up because it has backing plates. I am not sure of year but I also do not know if it matters on the mimi stuff.

 

[dgangle]

Knowing what you have only matters if you want to buy the correct rotors the first time. If your FDB parts came from a minitruck, knowing wether they are from 79-80 OR 81-85 is critical.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/301694-best-master-booster-disc-brake-mod.html

 

[peesalot]

Thats why I said I did not know if it matters. This board is starting to suck balls.

 

[mike@dw]

New Pics. I think it is a late model swap from another 40......?

 

[mike@dw]

Couple more. Also, what calipers?

 

[Poser]

Well you have 08/75-07/80 rotors and wheel bearing hub assemblies....early style.

Late model would be 08/80 and later.


Measure the pattern on the steering arm studs and compare it to what you find here <---- this is a link


They look like small pattern, 11mm stud, 12/78 and earlier knuckles/steering arms to me...

From the F A Q <---- this is a link

 

[mike@dw]

Thanks Poser. Have come across some of your other posts when searching and always helpful.

If I am looking to replace rotors and calipers, then I think I got the info I need, 75-80 rotors. It also looks like I have 86-88 calipers for vented rotors from the info in the thread below

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/243770-front-caliper-year-advice.html

I don't necessarily need to know what knuckles and steering arms I have to just do the rotors and calipers correct.

 

[Poser]

I don't necessarily need to know what knuckles and steering arms I have to just do the rotors and calipers correct.

Nope.


However, it would be a really good idea to figure out a means to secure the brake line and hose that is floating between the knuckle and axle, as it is not outside the realm of reality that it could fatigue at a junction and create a zero-brake pressure scenario for you at a most inopportune time.

 

[mike@dw]

Ok, so I am looking at the rotor and realized that it does not just pound off once the caliper is removed. I have only done brakes on my late model Nissans that the rotor just goes over the wheel studs and is essentially held on by the weel. I have to remove the hub don't I....

and I can't see how the caliper pistons are retracted to fit new pads. Maybe just easier and not much more expensive to get new loaded calipers.....

 

[Poser]

The rotor is removed by first removing the caliper from the knuckle, and then removing the wheel bearing hub assembly from the spindle so that you can remove the six 14mm head, 10mmx1.25 pitch thread bolts that secure the rotor to the wheel bearing hub. You can see the ends of them in your picture after the wheel was removed.


Pistons are easily pushed back into the caliper for new brake pad fitment by using a c-clamp style vise grip and pressing on the old brake pad.