How to remove body from chassis?

[bikemaniac]

Hi,

Soon I will need to give a HZJ78 an anti-corrosive underbody treatment by painting both the chassis, the body and all the suspension components. In order to have optimum working conditions I need to remove/lift the body from the chassis. To those of you who have done this before could you please explain:

1. How you did it.
2. What tools and lifting equipment did you use.
3. What not to do.

and moreover

If you are aware of other online sources where such removals/lifts are explained (maybe in some Land Rover forums), you are also welcome to post those links.

Thanks in advance,

Lucas

 

[gofast]

I did a chassis swap on my 60 series. Got rid of the rusty canadian frame for a spanky clean and painted JDM.

I use a hoist for lifting the body. you can lift the body using the pinch welds under the rockers.

Leave the entire body bolted together and mark the floor. This way you can roll the chassis back to where you started and then it's easier to align the body with the frame when its time to bolt it back on. Be prepared for deteriorated body mounts.

I used lots of seam sealer on the underside of the body. Its amazing what's not protected properly.

Of course you have to remove the connections between your brake, clutch, throttle, heat hoses, and any wires that attach to the frame or motor (ground). I'm not sure if the 70 series fuel tank mounts to the frame or body., On the 60 its the body so you don't have to remove any fuel filler stuff.


I think I had to remove the seats to get at the body mount bolts, its a while ago and my memory's dim.

It's very straight forward to get the body off and I used aluminum spacers to give the truck a 2 inch lift. Had to adjust the rad of course but everything else bolted right back up.

Cheers,

John

 

[Michael Hanson]

Theres a co. in South Africa that does this all the time. They also convert left to right steering etc. Maybe someone down there can get on here and add more. MIke

 

[bikemaniac]

I use a hoist for lifting the body. you can lift the body using the pinch welds under the rockers.

John

What type of hoist did you use and how exactly did you lift the body? Did you fabricate a steel frame (2 beam cross member)? I mean, you cannot have a single point above the body - that way you will squeeze it and make marks from ropes or whatever you use. This would be the critical part I think.

Lucas

 

[gofast]

Hi Lucas, the hoist I used was a two post hoist. This is a hoist often used in mechanic shops.


I have attached a link that shows the two post configuration. Car Lift, Automotive Lift, Auto Lifts, Vehicle Lift - Rotary Lift


The arms of the hoist lift the body. You just put the "hands" under the body at the rockers.

HTHS

 

[bikemaniac]

Hi Lucas, the hoist I used was a two post hoist. This is a hoist often used in mechanic shops.


I have attached a link that shows the two post configuration. Car Lift, Automotive Lift, Auto Lifts, Vehicle Lift - Rotary Lift


The arms of the hoist lift the body. You just put the "hands" under the body at the rockers.

HTHS

This is indeed the luxury version. If I only had such a hoist I would be happy .

I would be very interested in some more low budget lifting options. If anyone has tried that.

Lucas

 

[bikemaniac]

I made an underbody photo of 1 of the mounts:

https://plus.google.com/photos/1126...s/5697633536749454449?authkey=CLOe7O7XuNr-hwE

Does anyone have an answer to this:

You see a blank hexagonal part (looks like a 1/4") and just above you see 2 hexagonal nuts securing the assembly. When removing the 2 nuts I will be able to remove the body. However, having removed the 2 nuts, will I be able to push the body upwards (using a small jack) essentially pushing on the hexagonal 1/4" part????? This of course needs to be done simultaneously at 4 mounting points (4 small jacks) with help from friends. Once it has been lifted approx 1 inch, I will slide in special tool (self fabrication) which will lift the body the remaining distance. But, does anyone know if the hexagonal part (actually a bolt with a 1/4" hex end) is fully integrated with the body or will it just pop out because it is only designed for tension? Assuming the body weighs 500 kg, I only need to apply a pressure of 125 kg.

Lucas

 

[crushers]

i bought a Princess auto MaxJax lift and have been using it to lift the troopie body on and off and on and off for over a year. i love it. works well in shops with 8'6" ceilings.

to lift a body you want to make sure YOU are safe under it. money doesn't buy your widow happiness.

 

[roscoFJ73]

If this project is a one off,it may be cheaper to get someone out with a hiab crane mounted on a truck to lift it off onto stands and lift it back on when the jobs done.

From memory you have to lift the body at least 6 inches to clear the chassis

 

[roscoFJ73]

But, does anyone know if the hexagonal part (actually a bolt with a 1/4" hex end) is fully integrated with the body or will it just pop out because it is only designed for tension? Lucas

I broke the front one due to rust trying to undo it and was able to buy another and just pop it back in,so I assume they are all like that.
Its quite common to break them trying to remove a body. Your looks nice and clean

 

[bikemaniac]

Hi again,

Thanks for your answers. I do have access to some lifting devices, but I need to know where exactly to lift the body off. The MaxJax looks like a normal workshop lift (however mobile) but where exactly is the upward pressure applied to the body. I don't want any deformations, dents and scratches whatsoever.

Next, do I also need to remove (before lifting):

All doors
All seats
Bonnet
Fenders

in order to have less body distortion?

Thanks in advance,

Lucas

 

[crushers]

take a look at the troopie build and you can see where i lift the full troopie body ...

 

[bikemaniac]

take a look at the troopie build and you can see where i lift the full troopie body ...

I browsed all the pages but could not fine any good and clear pictures. However, please have look at my album again (I uploaded another pic):

https://picasaweb.google.com/lucasjensen/HZJMounting?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLOe7O7XuNr-hwE&feat=directlink

Should I lift the body where I put the red arrow? It is this rather thin piece of body which actually is the absolutely lowest part of the entire body. I believe It consists of 2 sheets spot welded down there. Lifting the body here would be like lifting the body on a knifes edge. Is this what you did?

Lucas

 

[crushers]

yes, that is correct.

 

[sodafeld1]

Often I am confronted with not only the lack of experience but the lack of finances and tools that I have in comparison. But I am a fairly patient and determined fellow.

Best way to really fix and clean the chassis frame is body removal.

I have lifted the body off with el cheapo jacks, bricks , some 1800 x 75 x 2.5mm square tube which lies beneath the rear wheel well where the bumpers are, and my engine crane which is a good investment and not a one trick pony.
Surprising to me, the body is not all that heavy on the troopy. 4 strong blokes could probably lift the whole body.
Not ideal or professional, but works and cheap n cheerful.

 

[Tigris]

If you end up lifting the body off of the chassis please do a write up on the process, since I am going to do a full restoration on my truck (incrementally yet soon), and a body-off is on my list.

Thank you and the best of luck

 

[mt72]

Holy revival 10 years later!

You have unbolted the pucks all along with the chassis. Then lift it's not that hard

 

[sodafeld1]

Yes, 5 mounting bolts each side with rubbers. No, not too hard, I work slow and careful. Getting it back on shall be the fun bit.

Geez , the rubber pads are exy to replace..I think 20 x before spending money and not necessarily ome.

I am not doing a build thread as there are so many better builds threads than what I capable of with the limited equipment, finances and facilities I have. I am just a hack, those big garages and hoists put me to shame. I probably wouldn't recommend what I am doing as it boils down to time and money, a fair bit of it, then I have to wait for the rain to stop...but then the learning process is priceless.

I have posted questions relevant to builds or add to existing threads on mud.
I have replaced the side rain gutters, but I used backing plates to weld new steel rather than butt welding which is the proper way, so I would be posting on what not too do if I did, not professional, many of the pros here on mud would roll their eyes in dismay. I have to try minimizing grinding as I drive the neighbour nuts. Should be alright tho and last awhile. At least new steel is relatively cheap still, for what it is.

The rolling chassis was easy to manoeuvre into the tight spot where I can work on the chassis, can just manually turn the front wheels by hand or lift a bit with a jack trolley to turn the wheels and push around.

 

[Tigris]

The reason I would be interested in reading a write up on the subject does not really involve the unbolting of the body mounts or even the body lifting mechanism/approach. I am mainly concerned with the rather tedious task of isolating the cabin from the rest of the vehicle. There are many harnesses, hard tubes, cables, hoses and components like the radiator that will need proper disconnection, capping, and tucking for a smooth lift-off.

Another (more positive) thing to consider is the alluring prospective of doing some necessary/preventive maintenance items (while it's all hanging out). Replacing heater core lines, exhaust system, tucked away sensors and fuel lines would be a breeze. But having some useful insights from someone who'd done it already would give me a better idea on my order of battle, which items and systems to tackle first and why. Things like that.

Cheers!

 

[sodafeld1]

Personally, I wouldn't lift the body unless stripping everything else first, without a hoist or crane. With doors and glass it would be much heavier. Folks do it for sure, bet they use a hoist or crane, someone on here would have.

With the strip and lift, I did not have to contemplate what I would have to leave on or off, everything off, which is a long and slow advantage! I just like doing it myself within my capacity.

On my good troopy, during dry summer, I just crawl underneath and clean, pressure wash upto 3x then hand scrub with various brushes, brake cleaner or prepsol and then even paint by hand brush. There are various cavity wax sprays or tectyl.

To remove the internal heater radiator you have to remove the whole dash, takes awhile.

If you wanted to go over your whole cruiser and learn it, I would break it down to specific jobs like remove radiator and reverse flush block then reassemble with new hoses if needed for example. Or remove a door, clean thoroughly, address rust and drain holes and re-install. Or front grill, or front side panel (battery side is good one to address), exhaust etc. I have done this. Usually getting it off is quicker than getting it back on.
Do it once, then it is much quicker second time around.

It depends how much down time from driving you are prepared to live with and mechanical experience, finances. I like to have good troopy ready to rock at most times.

I guess it is another reason why I got the wreck, to learn the more time consuming jobs, which started with a front knuckle rebuild on the good troopy, involving removing brakes, hub lock and bearings before even starting on the knuckle. Which I am much quicker at doing now. Then contemplating engine, differentials and gear box...

Don't mean to be a downer, just thought to post the body lift as doable with minimal equipment and finance. I am quite happy about it all! Tojos are ace, much easier than old mercs for example imo.