How to put battery in passenger compartment?

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I found a good place to get good battery cables is at the local welding shop. They are high quality and real flexible and cheap. They only come in black so make sure you use something like a colored battery connector to make sure you keep from blowing up your electrical equipment.

Chris
 
I thought batteries in the passenger compartment was NOT legal any longer in most all areas?!? ??? When I rebuilt a camper a few years ago they would not certify it until the batteries were in a separate compartment ONLY accessible from outside, vented and drained to outside and COMPLETELY sealed from the inside with silicone.
 
[quote author=cruiser_guy link=board=1;threadid=10452;start=msg93540#msg93540 date=1074720578]
I thought batteries in the passenger compartment was NOT legal any longer in most all areas?!? ??? When I rebuilt a camper a few years ago they would not certify it until the batteries were in a separate compartment ONLY accessible from outside, vented and drained to outside and COMPLETELY sealed from the inside with silicone.
[/quote]

That is entirely possible. The box I was talking about is for use in the trunk of a drag car. Don't know if it would be legal for the pass comparment.
 
[quote author=Dingleberry link=board=1;threadid=10452;start=msg93582#msg93582 date=1074724429]
Don't know if it would be legal for the pass comparment.
[/quote]

Hmmm. Not that I have any lack of movement of air in the 40's cab. Problem is that I've got the gigantic 3F-E air filter tub to put where the battery is now. Anyone make any battery trays to relocate the 40s battery to up near the bow on either side of the radiator? Doesn't the BJ40 have a separate battery location?
 
Under the driver's seat has been popular. That's where Woody has his. I put mine under the passenger seat in the old gas tank well. I can't fit a top on anymore and it's an Optima so no hydrogen gas build up in the cab problems.

Batteries put out almost no gasses now. They used to before they were sealed, but not so much anymore.
 
[quote author=Gumby link=board=1;threadid=10452;start=msg93629#msg93629 date=1074730404]
Under the driver's seat has been popular. That's where Woody has his.
[/quote]

Is it strapped down? a box/cage made for it? What protects the terminals from flying metal like pliers etc when wheeling :whoops: And what is the length of cable? Is there a hole in the floor to run the cable adjacent to the frame? over to the starter and fusable link area?
 
I both his and mine, there is a box that drops through the floor. it most certainly is strapped down. Bouncing batteries suck. loose impediments could possibly contact my top terminals, not to mention me, so i don't keep loose metal flying around. It's a closer run to the starter for me on the passenger side. In fact, i think it's closer to the starter than the stock battery location. I use a maxi fuse box located where the heater was so no fusable links.
 
actaully you can order red welding cable. But I used black 1/0, cost $30ish for 50ft, for the positive cables I used the black adhesive heat shrink, then on top of that I used some red heat shrink(non adheasive) Actaully black is more of a OEM look than red cables........


but yeah welding cable is sweet and MUCH MUCH cheaper than marine stuff, welding 1/0 less than $1 ft, marine $5ft


[quote author=TonkaC link=board=1;threadid=10452;start=msg93535#msg93535 date=1074720164]
I found a good place to get good battery cables is at the local welding shop. They are high quality and real flexible and cheap. They only come in black so make sure you use something like a colored battery connector to make sure you keep from blowing up your electrical equipment.

Chris
[/quote]
 
The welding cables work great and will put up with alot of abuse being as they are designed to be dragged around, stepped on, etc.

Here's what I'm doing to get my main battery out of the engine compartment and also my auxiliary battery out of the passenger compartment. I'm putting my batteries in front of the floor boards on the outside of the frame rails sort of in the front fenders. That way it puts the weight about as low as possible and with one on each side, perfectly balanced. This won't work if you run wheel well headers. If you have your front axle moved forward (spring flip) there is plenty of room even with large tires.
 
The bottom of the boxes are stout enough to act as a skid plate for the batt. The sides are tall enough to give adequate protection in the sticks and wash bottoms we run in. I was concerned with the same thing when I started to design them but am now convinced of the durability. The only thing I would like to do with them at this point is to put a flap of rubber from the firewall down to keep the mud from piling up on top of the batt.
 
[quote author=hammerhead link=board=1;threadid=10452;start=msg93935#msg93935 date=1074788947]
...concerned with the same thing when I started to design them but am now convinced of the durability.
[/quote]

I looked last night and I'm having a hard time visualizing what you mean in terms of actual clearance. Any pics? Would this work without a relocated front axle?
 

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