Next youll want to run to the steel yard or home depot or wherever and get a rectangle flat stock of steel. This is kind of how I mounted my coolers to my AC Condenser. Make sure you space out the metal strip out so your Trans cooler is NOT touching your condenser. You dont want any of this stuff touching each other. You will probably install and remove this thing 20 times to get it just right. There are other ways to mount these two coolers, this was just the easiest (definitely not the prettiest) way I did it.
You will also need to take a step bit to the core support right next to the oval holes for your Trans lines to run through. I ended up not using one side of them, but i did both sides to make it symmetrical. Use firewall gromets on these holes to make sure you dont cut your lines that you are planning on running through it. That center support on the hood latch was still touching my trans cooler in this pic and needed to be trimmed more.
The Power steering lines are really easy and come in a kit with the B&M Power steering cooler
PN:70255.
Next up is your trans cooler lines. Remember how earlier you decided if you were going to reuse your hard lines or put those -6 adapters in the side of your transmission to use AN hose? The following will be assuming you chose to use the AN hose for your cooler lines.
In total for my swap i used 25 feet of AN hose. This is for the fuel line and the trans lines. The hose is not something you want to cheap out on. I used Vibrant -6AN nylon braided hose that is rated for ATF, gas, and e85. The hose i used was VIBRANT PN:VPE-11976 for 20 foot length and VIBRANT VPE-11986 for 5 foot. For the trans cooler system youll need quite a few fittings. You will need six 90* -6AN fittings. You can use summit brand if you want to save some money, or vibrant 21906 for nicer ones. If you want some seriously awesome ones you can use deatschwerks 6-02-0803 Titanium anodized. Dont buy cheap chineese fittings though. For trans lines the summit or jegs ones are fine. Just to be safe maybe grab 30 feet of hose so you dont run out.
You will want to run an external cooler for the 4l60e and B&M PN: BMM-70266 works really well. For this you will need two -6 to NPT adapters to connect your lines. Use plumbers tape on the NPT side but NOT the AN side. The adapters are PN: SUM-220649B for the black ones.
Ok now that you have all of the parts You will need to build out your lines. This was really fun and one of my favorite parts of the swap because it looks professional when youre done and if you do it right looks super clean when you install them.
The bottom outlet on the trans is the hot side. It will flow to your upper radiator fitting for the trans cooler. Run your line down your bellhousing, along the oil pan and then do a 90* left turn along the bottom of where the radiator is and then all the way up to the top outlet on your ratiator. Make sure to give yourself a little bit of slack here. You are doing this to size the line out from the longer 20 foot section of line. What you are trying to accomplish here by the radiator is tucking the hose up and under the radiator to hide it. Once you have the length you need cut this hose and take it to your bench.
You will need a bench vise and some soft jaws for this. Vibrant makes some that are anodized black
VPE-20990. Install a 90* -6AN fitting to both ends of this hose. If you are worried about scratching the anodizing on your fittings, wrap the soft jaws in painters tape.
This is a video on how to install the fittings onto the ends of the hose. Dont bottom out the two metal pieces of the fitting, you want a tiny tiny gap, and do not use any sealer or anything on any of the threads. Make sure to lube threads of the part that is going to go into the hose with engine oil or something similar. You dont need a special AN tool for this s***. Use an adjustable wrench or some Knipex pliers if you have them. To cut the hose, wrap the hose where youll cut in painters tape and cut it with a cut off disc and an angle grinder.
OK now that you have the hose done youll connect the 90* fitting to the bottom outlet on the trans and run it up to the diagonal frame brace, tuck it up over that brace and feed it under your core support and up the side of your radiator and connect the other 90* fitting to the top AN port of your radiator. hand tighten these for now.
Under the radiator, where you installed the nutserts earlier, secure the hose to the fan shroud using Adel Clamps and a bolt. Dont tighten them too tight for now to allow for some movement.
Next youll run your hose from the lower radiator AN port, out your firewall and above the power sterering cooler to the right side port of the Transmission cooler. Mark your hose and cut it. Remove the hose and take to the bench and install a 90* -6 fitting on each end. Once those are installed snake it through your hole in the firewall and attach one end to the radiator port and the other end to your trans cooler using the NPT to -6 AN adapters. Use teflon tape on the NPT side but not the AN side. You can tighten both ends of this hose all the way since you wont need to adjust it much when you tidy it up.
The last hose for your trans lines will be from the left side of the trans cooler, out through the firewall, down the frame to the point where it reaches your first long line. Run the line parallel (important) to your other line that you previously made earlier. Run it to the upper port on the Transmission where your AN adapter is and mark the hose to be cut. Take it to the bench, install 2 90* AN fittings and then mount it in the truck. Leave these hand tight.
The front of your truck should now look like this:
And you should have your two long hoses just kinda dangling down in there like this with the AN fittings finger tight:
Next youll use more Adel Clamps and a few AN hose holders to organize this stuff up and make it look like you know what you are doing. On Amazon you can order some 6AN Hose Separator clamps made from aluminum.
6AN Hose Separator Clamps
Here are some Adel clamps while you are there.
Adel Clamps
Youll first attach these Aluminum clamps to your AN hoses loosely to see where you need them then you can twist them and route them up along your trans pan and oil pan to tuck them up super tight and nice and away from your exhaust. These clamps are great. Use the Adel clamps in the oil pan bolts to secure the lines.
After you are done with the routing, go back and tighten all of your AN fittings. DO NOT OVER TORQUE THESE. Your Transmission lines are all done at this point and half of your power steering lines are done.
Now that you have these all routed super nice and pretty and professionally... you can now wrap them in DEI heat wrap so they dont get hot from the exhaust. This isnt really necessary but I went full overkill on this wrap stuff. Your hoses will go from looking super tidy to looking like a food truck burrito. Once you do your fuel lines and stuff you can wrap those too. more on that later I just wrapped the velcro style heat wrap 3/4 around the hoses and secured them with stainless steel zip ties.
For your power steering hard line, you have some options. IMO the best option is to find a local hydraulic hose shop and have them make one for you. The GM pump high pressure port and the high pressure port on the Toyota box have the same attachment size on both ends. Its M16x1.5 with a flare in the hose. You can measure out the line and have a shop make them for you. A guy in Memphis named Metal Mike at Automotive AC Hose repair makes them for literally everyone here in Memphis not just land cruisers. I bought a prebuilt hose for this swap from a 3rd party supplier (not mike) that used an AN fitting as an adapter. The hose itself was made by Mike here in town. The adapter that is sold with the hose is the incorrect size (-5 or something, it was too small) and made of aluminum. If you go this route, youll want to toss the adapter in the trash immediately, buy a Stainless Steel M16x1.5 to -6 adapter and use that. I didnt and had my entire steering box leak out and blow back onto all of my freshly swapped stuff. The Steering box is like cast steel or something and the hose is also steel, so stainless is the way to go for this adapter fitting piece probably not aluminum.
After you get that hose done, your power steering is done as well.
