How to install hub studs? (1 Viewer)

[FirstToy]

I have a couple stripped hub studs that I pulled out. They were tight and I vice gripped it, unscrewed it. Obviously this method chewed up the old stud.

How do you screw the new hub studs in without chewing up the exposed threads? Any good tips? Seems like it will be just as tough screwing them back in as it was to pull them out.

thanks

 

[fj80toyman]

Hey James, best way to go is to tap out the threads before doing anything to make sure they're clean, also hose them out with some brake cleaner to make sure all the crud gets cleaned out.

Then, double-nut the studs (two nuts tightened together on the outer end of the stud) and then screw them in. Hope that helps you.

Dan.

 

[jvazquez53]

I always wonder if those studs could be replaced with grade 8 bolts???

 

[FirstToy]

Ah! thanks Dan. I knew there was some simple way to do this.
Look at me, chewing up the junk w/ a vice grip. lol, what a rookie!

 

[scdunn]

Too Tight

I double nutted my new studs and tourqed them to the nut torque (22 ft-lbs) and ended up stripping out the hub threads. There is no stop for the studs so I managed to suck the stud shoulder right through the first few hub threads. I ended up buying a new hub. I installed my new hub nuts on new finger tight studs in the new hub to FSM spec, 22 ft-lbs. Several of the nuts stripped out. My conclusion is 22 lbs is way overkill.

 

[FirstToy]

I double nutted my new studs and tourqed them to the nut torque (22 ft-lbs) and ended up stripping out the hub threads. There is no stop for the studs so I managed to suck the stud shoulder right through the first few hub threads. I ended up buying a new hub. I installed my new hub nuts on new finger tight studs in the new hub to FSM spec, 22 ft-lbs. Several of the nuts stripped out. My conclusion is 22 lbs is way overkill.

just to clarify,
the problem was you screwed the studs in too far into the hub?

I know that 22 ft lbs is going to be too little to screw the studs into the hub. It took a lot of force to back the studs out of the hub. I did check the threads and they were clean, seemed to back out ok.

If you mean 22 ft lbs on the nuts (final step buttoning everything up). Yes, I'll go very easy on them. Thanks!

 

[jvazquez53]

I double nutted my new studs and tourqed them to the nut torque (22 ft-lbs) and ended up stripping out the hub threads. There is no stop for the studs so I managed to suck the stud shoulder right through the first few hub threads. I ended up buying a new hub. I installed my new hub nuts on new finger tight studs in the new hub to FSM spec, 22 ft-lbs. Several of the nuts stripped out. My conclusion is 22 lbs is way overkill.

I never torqued mine, I just get them tight (by feeling) and use Locktite. Never had lost a stud/nut or the hub and being doing this for years.

 

[fj80toyman]

Yeah, forgot to add, LocTite those suckers in 'fer good.

Dan.

 

[Pathfinder]

Hey James, best way to go is to tap out the threads before doing anything to make sure they're clean, also hose them out with some brake cleaner to make sure all the crud gets cleaned out.

Then, double-nut the studs (two nuts tightened together on the outer end of the stud) and then screw them in. Hope that helps you.

Dan.

I used this method on mine a couple of weeks back. Took only a couple of minutes to replace each one. Very easy. Good luck.

 

[rockclmbr]

James,

Clean those threads out really well, blow some compressed air through them to get all the grim out, pour a little acetone or brake cleaner through them and let it dry out. Then use the red loctite Thread Locker to secure the studs.

 

[Reachej]

So folks are using loctite on both the studs and the nuts? Will this be a problem if they need to be removed in the future?

 

[ajax1]

I don’t use lock tite . I thread the stud in with stud tool or double nut till tight. I then use torque wrench and put the nuts at 28ftlbs no issues. Put little dab of molly grease around the cone washer to prevent corrosion and get them to come out easier for next time