How to fix trail damage to front lower control arm mount (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 5, 2017
Threads
19
Messages
483
Location
Denver
Hi all,

So a rock may have gotten in the way of my lower control arm mount. Its now bent in a bit and the bushing is getting all shredded. Not too much of a problem yet, but obviosly I would like to get it straigtened out and get some new bushings in.

I have thought about dropping control arm and trying to hammer out, possible with a little heat.

Other options? Anyone know someplace in the Front Range area that deals with smaller 4x4 trail damage like this?

Pictures:
78kC6q0YQ2iKDGBrejCsfQ.jpg
cK3I7R1JRoqJuatFLuijrw.jpg

Possible that the arm is toast too
MKzaSZ1hSqa3Bgz%vtOpqg.jpg
L+MR1orMRzidZEdgwA%mrQ.jpg

What it should look like PS:
nioEjpPYTNuikppRCj4uIA.jpg
 
If your going to pull the control arm, put the bolt back in with the nut tightened up, heat the area and put a pipe wrench on the 'ear' and pull it back to factory resemblance, deburr edges with a file, spray some paint on it and forget about it.
 
Teh second pic looks like the bent tab is interferring with the control arm movement. The third pic shows fresh wear mark on the tab from teh control arm. I would want to fix it
 
If you just heat and straighten that piece of the mount, I'd bet $1 it cracks at some point in the future. Me, I'd grind the bent part down, so as not to affect the structure of the metal, and then weld a big steel washer to the outside surface, to restore the strength. There is probably still going to be enough length left on the mounting bolt to get away with the extra thickness of metal.
 
I bet if you smack it again on the same rock it will look new again
 
If you just heat and straighten that piece of the mount, I'd bet $1 it cracks at some point in the future. Me, I'd grind the bent part down, so as not to affect the structure of the metal, and then weld a big steel washer to the outside surface, to restore the strength. There is probably still going to be enough length left on the mounting bolt to get away with the extra thickness of metal.

Where's it going to crack? It's only bent at the outside cosmetic area. The load is at the welded portion above the bolt. Do you think every time a frame tab get tweaked that insurance deems your vehicle a total loss? We're not dealing with aluminum here. lol
 
There's a pretty legit OE skid plate that protects the joint. It was removed. It also protects the oil filter. I don't recommend removing it until you find a suitable and more robust replacement.
 
Last edited:
There's a pretty legit OE skid plate that protects the joint. It was removed. It also protects the oil filter. I don't recommend removing it until you find a suitable and more robust replacement.

View attachment 1854801


No lower A-arm mount nor oil filter damage before replacing skid plate.
View attachment 1854802

Tin foil...not likely to help the OP taking a direct hit to the frame tab...
 
Do you think every time a frame tab get tweaked that insurance deems your vehicle a total loss?
No, I don't think that, because I'm not a fricking idiot. I've only been wrenching and restoring cars for 35 years. You HEAT and bend metal, you change the structure of the steel, and it can become brittle. How do you think the force of the suspension gets to the frame?? It goes to the bolt, then the metal around the bolt, then to tab, then to frame. That tab can crack if you heat it up and then bend it. Take the heat out of the equation, and bending it is fine, just a lot harder to do without body shop tools

And kindly stuff your LOLs. I'm not some desktop Google search expert, I know what I am talking about, I've seen it with my own eyes.
 
There's a pretty legit OE skid plate that protects the joint. It was removed. It also protects the oil filter. I don't recommend removing it until you find a suitable and more robust replacement.

View attachment 1854801


No lower A-arm mount nor oil filter damage before replacing skid plate.
View attachment 1854802

The OEM skid was on when this happened. I take it off to do work, and only put it back on when I am heading back out to trail.
 
No, I don't think that, because I'm not a fricking idiot. I've only been wrenching and restoring cars for 35 years. You HEAT and bend metal, you change the structure of the steel, and it can become brittle. How do you think the force of the suspension gets to the frame?? It goes to the bolt, then the metal around the bolt, then to tab, then to frame. That tab can crack if you heat it up and then bend it. Take the heat out of the equation, and bending it is fine, just a lot harder to do without body shop tools

And kindly stuff your LOLs. I'm not some desktop Google search expert, I know what I am talking about, I've seen it with my own eyes.

Any idea what a body shop would charge for pulling this back? Would they be able to do it without removing arm? If so it shouldn't be that hard of a job for them.
 
Any idea what a body shop would charge for pulling this back? Would they be able to do it without removing arm? If so it shouldn't be that hard of a job for them.

Just time-maybe an hour shop labor rate since theres no parts or materials involved. If you have to heat that spot, youll first have to remove the LCA otherwise you probably flame the bushing. Thats more invloved because the torsion bar needs to come off & ball joint separated(more time).

First borrow or buy a rolling head type prybar and see if you can clearance the folded over dammage to allow the LCA to fully droop with out binding or rubbing.
F33C2A75-82B9-45C2-B3C8-4EAAEEFEB758.jpeg


Just curious, how did you jam that spot? Did you slide off of ledge or hit a stray rock haulin’ azz?
 
No, I don't think that, because I'm not a fricking idiot. I've only been wrenching and restoring cars for 35 years. You HEAT and bend metal, you change the structure of the steel, and it can become brittle. How do you think the force of the suspension gets to the frame?? It goes to the bolt, then the metal around the bolt, then to tab, then to frame. That tab can crack if you heat it up and then bend it. Take the heat out of the equation, and bending it is fine, just a lot harder to do without body shop tools

And kindly stuff your LOLs. I'm not some desktop Google search expert, I know what I am talking about, I've seen it with my own eyes.
I think cold working the steel is more likely to induce fatigue. And heating steel and cooling it slowly is basically how one normalizes it so uhhh not sure what youre talking about
 
Just time-maybe an hour shop labor rate since theres no parts or materials involved. If you have to heat that spot, youll first have to remove the LCA otherwise you probably flame the bushing. Thats more invloved because the torsion bar needs to come off & ball joint separated(more time).

First borrow or buy a rolling head type prybar and see if you can clearance the folded over dammage to allow the LCA to fully droop with out binding or rubbing.
View attachment 1854869

Just curious, how did you jam that spot? Did you slide off of ledge or hit a stray rock haulin’ azz?

Those look pretty cool, and I have never seen them before.... *thinking to myself* Does Harbor Freight sell them? Why yes, they do for only $6.99 for 3.
3 Pc Pry Bar Set

Complete with a 30% off any tool under $10 coupon good through Monday. Just take a photo of the coupon on the screen with your phone and it will still scan. Harbor Freight Tools Coupon Database - Free coupons, 25 percent off coupons, 20 percent off coupons, No Purchase Required coupons, toolbox coupons
 
Those look pretty cool, and I have never seen them before.... *thinking to myself* Does Harbor Freight sell them? Why yes, they do for only $6.99 for 3.
3 Pc Pry Bar Set

Complete with a 30% off any tool under $10 coupon good through Monday. Just take a photo of the coupon on the screen with your phone and it will still scan. Harbor Freight Tools Coupon Database - Free coupons, 25 percent off coupons, 20 percent off coupons, No Purchase Required coupons, toolbox coupons
Good find.
 
I think cold working the steel is more likely to induce fatigue. And heating steel and cooling it slowly is basically how one normalizes it so uhhh not sure what youre talking about
"I think"... It's exactly the opposite, actually. Cold working steel increases hardness, it does not reduce it. Bending a bit of frame back doesn't really count as "cold working", though. Google it if you don't want to take my word for it. Depending on the type of steel, heating and cooling steel incorrectly can greatly reduce it's strength and cause it to crack under stress.
 
Last edited:
"I think"... It's exactly the opposite, actually. Cold working steel increases hardness, it does not reduce it. Bending a bit of frame back doesn't really count as "cold working", though. Google it if you don't want to take my word for it.
I dont need to google it. Hardening steel makes less ductile steel. Why do you think heat treating has a tempering step? Why do you think smiths will keep heating up steel during the forging process?

Science.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom