how to adjust clutch pedal properly? (1 Viewer)

[mattcheston]

I have an entirely new clutch hydraulic system. FJ60 with no clutch booster, new master cylinder, release cylinder, and hydraulic line.

Looking at CL-3 in the 84-90 chassis/body manual, which specs pedal height at 7.13in for the FJ60. My pedal is nowhere near this high.

I'm assuming I should move the clutch master lock nut/bracket out to push the pedal up? Then the pedal height adjuster at the top comes down to meet it at this height?

Kinda also unclear on what this adjustment point has to do with pedal freeplay as well. It shows a spec of 13-23mm at the pedal, and 1-5mm at the pushrod, and says this is adjustable by moving the bracket and lock nut on the master?

 

[mattressking]

Very simple procedure, just did this a few weeks ago. Once the master is replaced and properly bled, set max height which is 7.13 (I can't view FSM at work, so I will assume 7.13 is right, I remember low 7s from memory) by adjusting the pedal stop on the bracket, which is the bolt/nut. Loosen the nut and spin bolt depending on what you need, more or less height. Once desired height is achieved, lock down the nut.

The 'play' between pedal stop height and pedal actuation is adjusted by spinning the U-shaped guide on the master cylinder threaded shaft. I adjust to get actuation right in the middle of what the FSM calls for. The nut is then tightened down.

Keep in mind, you will have to pull the pin that connects pedal to master rod to get the adjustment right, keep the clip off to make it easy.

 

[mattcheston]

So if my pedal is too low, I can assume that there's still air in the system? It seems to me that the pedal height adjustment location can only lower the pedal?

Just don't want to hurt my shiny new pressure plate or cylinders (or the clutch disc/transmission when driving).

 

[mattressking]

You need to see why your pedal is low. Is the pedal resting against the pedal stop bolt? or is it hanging in 'mid-air' so to speak. If its hanging in mid air, I assume the U-bracket is spun too far onto the master threaded shaft.

Pedal Height Adjust Point is the bolt on the clutch pedal bracket. Push Rod play is adjusted by the U bracket connecting pedal to master.

 

[mattcheston]

Yeah, that was what I was trying to describe before. It's hanging in mid-air below the pedal stop adjustment.

 

[mattressking]

Yeah, that was what I was trying to describe before. It's hanging in mid-air below the pedal stop adjustment.

Remove the pin that connects master to pedal, then measure the pedal height from floor. Once pedal height is correct, adjust the U bracket so that it mates up to pedal. Then measure play. You can fine tune by spinning the U-bracket/nut in and out to get it in spec.

 

[mattcheston]

Wait actually I just realized that the pedal return spring is 100% necessary to make all this adjustment make sense. Doh!

It was making a loud clunking before so I took the spring off so it would stop, but then I just realized that just means the freeplay was way above spec. Move the U-bracket thing out a bunch and adjust the pedal height with the spring on and I should be golden.

A slow moment for sure.

 

[mattressking]

From my memory, spring doesn't need to be in place for adjustments. Just make sure its connected when you are finished.

 

[FJ6T]

New love for this thread... Installed all new components with Mark's kit/5.3 swap and the clutch was catching right off the floor. Per the FSM, the pedal and rod were out of spec. A quick adjustment and its back to "normal".

 

[brownjeans]

Okay, maybe a different problem, maybe not.
My clutch pedal is in the correct position, but the engagement of the clutch seems right at the top of the pedal's travel. In fact, it seems that the clutch is still a little bit engaged (feels like the clutch starts to slip when engine is pushing the torques).

I fiddled with the rod between the pedal and master, but adjusting it only seems to lower the pedal, it doesn't move the engagement point of the clutch. Is this something that can be adjusted or is this simply a sign that my clutch is finally tired after 150k miles and 39 years?

 

[OSS]

The clutch slave cylinder is self adjusting. What you’re experiencing is 100% normal engagement and travel. All the action happens in the first inch or so of pedal travel. As far as pedal engagement height goes, you can’t tell the difference between a brand new clutch disc or one that’s completely worn out.

The clutch cover, which is what clamps the disc against the flywheel only needs to move outward 1/8” or so to disengage the clutch.

 

[brownjeans]

The clutch slave cylinder is self adjusting. What you’re experiencing is 100% normal engagement and travel. All the action happens in the first inch or so of pedal travel. As far as pedal engagement height goes, you can’t tell the difference between a brand new clutch disc or one that’s completely worn out.

The clutch cover, which is what clamps the disc against the flywheel only needs to move outward 1/8” or so to disengage the clutch.

So you're saying there is no way to adjust the catch point of the clutch and the slipping (foot off clutch, going up hill and the engine starts revving while speed is unchanged) is the clutch going bad?

When the clutch is totally done will the slave self adjust to the point that pressing the pedal does nothing? Is what I'm experiencing (catch point moving higher on the pedal) simply the progression of a dying clutch?

 

[OSS]

So you're saying there is no way to adjust the catch point of the clutch and the slipping (foot off clutch, going up hill and the engine starts revving while speed is unchanged) is the clutch going bad?

When the clutch is totally done will the slave self adjust to the point that pressing the pedal does nothing? Is what I'm experiencing (catch point moving higher on the pedal) simply the progression of a dying clutch?

When the clutch starts slipping on its own when your foot is off of it — it’s toast and all the clutch components need to be replaced: everything.

Pedal engagement height won’t change with a worn 1986 or later FJ60 clutch. But the earlier models have an adjustable slave cylinder- so check that. The symptoms of a worn out clutch are:

1. Slipping when foot off pedal and gas applied to engine. Higher gears are worse (easier to slip) and of course hills amplify the problem.
2. Weird noises from clutch.

I say to replace every clutch component, including bearings, clutch cover and resurface the flywheel because it’s a very big job you only want to do once. — and by the time the clutch disc is worn out, everything else is on its last leg too.

 

[brownjeans]

When the clutch starts slipping on its own when your foot is off of it — it’s toast and all the clutch components need to be replaced: everything.

Pedal engagement height won’t change with a worn 1986 or later FJ60 clutch. But the earlier models have an adjustable slave cylinder- so check that. The symptoms of a worn out clutch are:

1. Slipping when foot off pedal and gas applied to engine. Higher gears are worse (easier to slip) and of course hills amplify the problem.
2. Weird noises from clutch.

I say to replace every clutch component, including bearings, clutch cover and resurface the flywheel because it’s a very big job you only want to do once. — and by the time the clutch disc is worn out, everything else is on its last leg too.

Hmm, my 60 is a 01/85 build so the slave might be adjustable, but I'm thinking it's probably time to replace all the clutch stuff.

 

[NWxDrew]

The clutch return spring is NLA from Toyota. Are there any aftermarket ones available?

 

[mdw83fj60]

The clutch return spring is NLA from Toyota. Are there any aftermarket ones available?

https://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24496

If it’s the pedal return spring you need found this one.

 

[brownjeans]

The clutch started slipping. I put in a new clutch and everything resolved. I can't believe the original clutch only lasted 40 years. What a rip!