How the heck do I get this out???

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I don't know if it would work in this situations, but a few years ago, I found a handy tool to get into areas with no room to swing a ratchet or gear wrench. It is a chain driven extension wrench made by Tite-Reach.

tite-reach.com

Extension Wrenches & Tools - Specialized for Tight Work Spaces

Tite-Reach specialty tools are professional grade hand tools that will make your job easier by reaching those hard to access nuts and bolts. Save your knuckles, save your time!
tite-reach.com tite-reach.com

I bought the 1/4" and 3/8" set back in 2002 when I was fiddling with my Subaru WRX. The horizontally opposed engine puts the spark plugs right at the frame height, with zero room to move. I was using two swivel adapters and turning one notch on the ratchet at a time. Once was enough, and I splurged to the Tite-Reach set. I now have their low profile sockets to go with them, and the combination has come in handy an endless number of times.


How it works:
 
This is one of those situations where you modify a tool you have or make one. Heat it and shape it, cut and weld, whatever it takes. Where there is a will, there is a way. Good luck with it!
 
aztoyman said:
This is one of those situations where you modify a tool you have or make one. Heat it and shape it, cut and weld, whatever it takes. Where there is a will, there is a way. Good luck with it!
Click to expand...

I've done that a few times for working on motorcycles.
 
I vaguely recall using a socket with an extension sitting at an angle on the bolt head to crack it loose, then using pliers or vice grips to reach under and slowly loosen it. Or maybe I used vice grips on the socket? It was 6 years ago so my memory is hazy though.
 
Slow Paddler said:
I don't know if it would work in this situations, but a few years ago, I found a handy tool to get into areas with no room to swing a ratchet or gear wrench. It is a chain driven extension wrench made by Tite-Reach.

tite-reach.com

Extension Wrenches & Tools - Specialized for Tight Work Spaces

Tite-Reach specialty tools are professional grade hand tools that will make your job easier by reaching those hard to access nuts and bolts. Save your knuckles, save your time!
tite-reach.com tite-reach.com

I bought the 1/4" and 3/8" set back in 2002 when I was fiddling with my Subaru WRX. The horizontally opposed engine puts the spark plugs right at the frame height, with zero room to move. I was using two swivel adapters and turning one notch on the ratchet at a time. Once was enough, and I splurged to the Tite-Reach set. I now have their low profile sockets to go with them, and the combination has come in handy an endless number of times.


How it works:
Click to expand...

I love watching him strip the crap out of whatever that screw is going into at 0:42.
 
I am assuming that y'all drilled out the upper holes at an extreme angle? There's no way to get a drill into those upper holes at any sort of reasonable angle.
 
CharlieS said:
I love watching him strip the crap out of whatever that screw is going into at 0:42.
Click to expand...
Yea, that's pretty ridiculous. You at least have to try to support the other end! I've only used mine with hand tools, so you don't usually need three hands.
 
Tex68w said:
I am assuming that y'all drilled out the upper holes at an extreme angle? There's no way to get a drill into those upper holes at any sort of reasonable angle.
Click to expand...
Can't remember how tight it is in there, but i have used this to successfully drill a hole where there wasn't much room. It wasn't fun, but got it done.

Amazon product ASIN B07NQS465R
 
Tex68w said:
I am assuming that y'all drilled out the upper holes at an extreme angle? There's no way to get a drill into those upper holes at any sort of reasonable angle.
Click to expand...
The Budbuilt sliders that I've installed don't require drilling, so I am just spitballing, but could you use a right angle adapter and a short drill (bit)?
 
lx200inAR said:
Can't remember how tight it is in there, but i have used this to successfully drill a hole where there wasn't much room. It wasn't fun, but got it done.

Amazon product ASIN B07NQS465R
Click to expand...

There are two where the head alone from a right angle drill wouldn't even clear the gap. With my shoulder being ***ced I am likely going to begrudgingly pay my local shop to finish the install. I simply don't have the strength in that arm to do this overhead work from my back at the moment.
 
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Well so far I've have tried an offset wrench, a "deep" offset wrench, and a ratcheting flex head wrench and I still can't get that bolt loose or even started. I am at a loss here, I've installed many sets of sliders, I've done lifts, I've done motor work, fabricated brackets, etc. and yet this bolt has me stopped dead in my tracks. I keep slipping off of the bolt head due to the extreme angle and limited room which almost immediately makes the handle of the wrench impact the angled portion of the bracket thereby causing it to slip off of the bolt head.

The hydraulic lines are in the way requiring the offset, the bracket that the bolt holds in place has a 45 coming out away from the frame directly below the bolt, combine those two obstacles and it only allows for 5-10 degrees of access from the front side and almost none from the rear. These are sliders that have been out for years, they've obviously been installed by others, including some here on the forum and yet I can't even get started. I am beyond frustrated and ready to give up, this shouldn't be this difficult. I can't even start to drill the bottom side of the frame holes because I have to be able to get the slider in place against the frame rail in order to know where to drill. That single bolts disallows this lol. I haven't even begun to examine how little room I'll have to drill some of the holes thereby requiring a slimmer right angle drill attachment as the 1/2" one I have is far too deep even with a short shank drill bit.

Maybe I should just say screw that bolt and cut that portion/corner of the bracket off completely in order to clearance it from the lines and bracket? I am not far from seriously considering this option lol.
 
Sorry mate, doesn’t sound like fun…

These are KDSS right? Otherwise I would say disconnect and bend lines out of your way.
 
I've dealt with that pesky bolt on two 200s when installed Budbuilt sliders.

Just keep trying tools until one works. Some combination of spanners, possibly a ratcheting one, ended up working.

You could get the saw, welder and grinder out and customize a special tool for the job.
 
CharlieS said:
I've dealt with that pesky bolt on two 200s when installed Budbuilt sliders.

Just keep trying tools until one works. Some combination of spanners, possibly a ratcheting one, ended up working.

You could get the saw, welder and grinder out and customize a special tool for the job.
Click to expand...

The fact that it's even involved is frustrating and the fact that the manufacturer doesn't provide suggestions or a tool in order to help with this step is also kind of BS. Had I known that this step was involved I would have chosen another make of sliders entirely to avoid messing with it and they would have been on the truck two weeks ago.
 
I advocated for the MTs so I feel a little responsible.. would go out and retrace my steps but with the sliders in the way not sure it would be that helpful.
 
Potential?

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