How NOT to remove a windshield

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KLF

Frame waxer
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 5, 2003
Threads
250
Messages
10,407
Location
Southern NH
Following the theme of the pinion seal thread, I thought I'd share how I got the windshield out of my '87 Xcab the other day. This truck is in the process of getting a complete frame-off restore, the cab is totally stripped of all interior parts, really nothing left but the shell, even the door, fenders, hood, and cowl have been removed. The windshield was in very poor condition, lots of pits and a few stone stars, and I could see rust peeking out around the trim in a few places, so it needed to be replaced. I talked to a glass shop about having them come remove the windshield, they were gonna do it for $75 when when had a job in the local area, but I got tired of waiting for them, I needed it out.

Working VERY carefully, I was able to remove all the chrome trim around the windshield. Having the FSM handy showing what type of clips were where, how to work with them, etc. I only broke one little clip, not too bad. All the trim is still in usable shape.

Now on to removing the glass. I didn't want to spend the money on a windshield removal tool for one use, and I had read about using MIG wire to remove one. What you're supposed to do is take a sharp pic and make a hole through the sealant at one corner, then take some MIG wire and thread it through the hole, and wrap the wire around a couple scraps of wood to use as handles to saw and pull the wire through the sealant to cut it all the way around. Well, I tried 0.030 and 0.023 wire, and it was hopeless, the wire kept breaking after cutting only about an inch or so. I have to assume this is the original windshield, the black sealant was VERY stiff, like trying to cut through tire rubber. Even a sharp knife was not working, and a heat gun had little effect on softening it. It became apparent that I wasn't gonna get the windshield out in one piece. I didn't really care, it was getting replaced anyway.

I remembered a trick I learned in a vehicle extrication class when I was in the Fire Service waaay back in the 80's: slap some clear contact paper on the windshield, then pop a hole in the glass, cut it out with a sawzall with a fine blade. The contact paper keeps the small bits from flying into your (and the victims) face, and holds the sheets together better than the internal layer. A stop at the hardware and I had what I needed, off I go.

I started out by running a strip of duct tape around the perimeter, my intent was to cut down the middle of the duct tape. Then I sectioned the windshield out in manageable pieces, also with duct tape. Then I applied the contact paper over the whole thing. I also put a tarp inside the cab to keep glass fragments from going too far, and another tarp under the cab.

Taped.jpg


TarpInside.jpg


Safety gear: I put on heavy boots, long pants, my leather welding jacket and heavy gloves, goggles, AND a full face shield. Just the outfit to wear on a nice hot humid day!

Using a 2" masonry chisel and a hammer, I "cut" a slit in the glass at the upper corners, then at a few other strategic points. Then I used a fine demo blade in my Sawzall to cut the glass about an inch or so from the outer frame. It cut surprisingly easy, actually, like I was cutting thru 1/4" plywood. I sliced the thing up into chunks about 12" square, and tossed each one into a plastic tub on the floor.

AllCutOut.jpg


This left a thin border of glass still glued to the cab. I sharpened a 1" stiff putty knife, and used a hammer to cut through the stiff sealant, pounding it mostly perpendicular to the frame, working slowly, all the way around. It was exhausting work, that stuff did not want to cut. It took a long time, and I was soaked in sweat by the time I got it all out.

Then I had to start cleaning up, what a mess!! Lots of sweeping and vacuuming, I think I got all the glass bits into the tub. By the time I got this done, I had no more energy for the day, plus I was late for a dinner at some friends.

The next day I had to deal with the remaining black sealant on the frame, not sure how I was gonna get that stuff off. Then I suddenly remembered the Rockwell SoniCrafter (https://www.rockwelltools.com/US/Sonicrafter-P1353.aspx?gclid=CMDuh9fs6qkCFcWA5QodqhVGYQ) tool my wife gave me for Christmas, still unused in it's pouch. Figured I'd give it a try, stuck the scraper blade on, and that thing sliced thru that stuff like it was nuthin. In a matter of minutes I was able to scrape almost all the old sealant off the cab frame, then I finished it off with a knotted wire wheel in my grinder.

Cab1.jpg


Now I'm ready to start prepping for paint.

Again, probably not the best way to do this job, but it worked for me.
 
The Sonicrafter is a cheaper alternative to the Fein MultiMaster which just ran out on it's patent, so now there are lots of copycats on the market. Everybody makes one, I did a bunch of reading of comparisons last Fall and the Rockwell fared pretty well in the corded version, so I asked Santa for that one.

I can't imagine having a cordless one, it would eat batteries like candy.
 
klf,
looks great man. glad to see more people trying to save these trucks rather than beat them to absolute crap on a trail somewhere. I know they dont have the desirability / respect that the 40s do, but hopefully they will some day.

I am trying to restore my 4runner to a crisp clean drivable stock too. (minus a few convenience based / aesthetic bolt ons that are easily reversed.)

good luck with the resto. keep it up. looks like a solid body there, just needs a good blasting and a nice paint job.

did you ever decide on the roof? personally i wouldnt put the sunroof in. it is bound to leak. plus its more of a rigid truck without it i would suspect.
 
I chickened out on the sunroof idea. I took a good look at the 4Runner roof, it wasn't going to be as easy as I thought. It kinda pisses me off, I'm not used to backing down on challenges like this, but I really really love this truck and I don't want to screw it up. I'm sure I could get it to not leak, but I'm not sure I could get it structurally stable, I have no experience with this type of thing and it's not like I can just go get another rust-free cab.

I've also decided this is my one and only time with this type of a project. I have to keep turning off the common sense alarm that keeps going off in the back of my head, this is something driven by passion. What I *should* have done is driven it till it rotted out, scavenge the parts of value to sell, then go trade the car in on a Tacoma. Oh well.
 
hey,
i think you are making the right choice not putting the roof in. especially in the situation where you are, where you are doing a restoration. its probably not even your primary driver right? just a toy.
so to me, chopping up a clean classic body would be kind of bastrdizing it you know?

as far as what you should have done, my dad always told me this:
"If you want to play, you gotta pay". meaning, yeah you will probably be way upside down in this truck, probably two to three times what its worth in a sale, (i know i am with mine) but we do it cause its fun.

gotta have a hobby right?:cheers:


keep up with the pics. i want to see progress!!
 
Sunroof: A good friend (actually the guy I bought the truck from waaay back in 2001) just bought a brand new Tacoma, but it didn't have a sunroof from the factory. He sent it out to a local aftermarket place and had one put in, I'll tell ya it looks like it came from the factory. New headliner, controls in the roof, they did an amazing job. So there is hope to have one put in later, maybe I'll do that.

This truck is definitely more than a "toy" to me, I have always said it has to earn it's keep. I put almost 10,000 miles on it last year, more than my car. I use it a lot, especially in the winter, and on weekends when I'm out building homes for Habitat for Humanity. I'm really tired of loading my tools into the Highlander every week, I need my truck back.

I won't be "upside down" on the expenses, but it does seem stupid to be dumping this kind of money into an old truck like this. My wife actually encouraged me to do this project, even though it means no vacation this year and some mac-n-cheese dinners here and there.

The engine is almost done at the machine shop, I'll probably start another thread when I start putting it back together. I ordered a bunch of cool AutoMeter gauges from Jegs yesterday, I'm planning to build a console that sits on top of the dash (similar to the old altimeter that everybody goes gaa-gaa over) for them.

Today's task is to power wash the frame, get all the grease off, then strip off the axles and suspension, get it loaded onto the trailer for a trip to the sand blasters.

I hope I can salvage the bed, it's pretty beat up. We'll see...
 
Looks like you've already put a few hours into this project. I think I would have been a bit too chicken to take the glass out by myself but I'm glad it worked out for you.

I have one of the Fein tools but so far I've only used it for flush cutting. I can see though that the scraper blade would work very well for that job.

Good luck with the rest of the restoration.

Just out of curiosity, have you bought all new window and door seals from Toyota and, if so, about what did that cost? Thanks.
 
MIG wire is the wrong stuff to use. It will not work. The method is solid tho. Wire cuts them out easily. Ya just need window cutting wire. Its made up of three bands of strong wire braided together to make a "rope saw" out of it. It works so well I have even sawed off the corners of windows before with no cracks or damage to the glass.

I used this stuff once to cut out a stock windshield out of a 88 runner that had 6 chips in it and put it an my truck with no additional damage or cracks.

Very easy to do. Ya need a buddy to manage the wire inside while you pull on the one outside.

Amazon.com: BRAIDED WINDSHIELD CUT-OUT WIRE: Automotive
 
The braided windshield cut out wire looks like OB saw wire except it isn't stainless steel.
 
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