How much metal is too much metal in differential oil?

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I’m trying to figure out if I broke a CV or my front differential. I got stuck in sand and was spinning the wheels a bit before I was able to get myself out. Afterwards, I had a clicking noise when driving that sometimes will clunk. I’ve only heard the grinding noise like twice. It seems like it’s coming from the passenger side, and there’s no difference when turning left versus right. I drained the front diff and this is what I found.

I have an extra CV axle, would it would be OK to put that in and refill with oil then test drive? Or should I just pull the diff and take it to my mechanic?

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Yikes, thats a lot of metal. I've been around a lot of grenaded parts but have never seen a magnet look like that. Usually see big chunks (broken gear teeth) or sludgy glitter (bearings and wear surfaces). Sorry!
 
Yikes, thats a lot of metal. I've been around a lot of grenaded parts but have never seen a magnet look like that. Usually see big chunks (broken gear teeth) or sludgy glitter (bearings and wear surfaces). Sorry!
Yeah that’s what I thought. I got similar responses on the UZJ100 FB page. Was hoping for a different opinion here lol.

Well it looks like a regear and a front locker might be in my future.
 
Sorry, that's not normal wear. Your fears are likely confirmed.
 
anything more than paste is bad
 
That's too bad. I know this isn't great news right now but if you need to order a new front diff now is the time. I plugged it in to Serra Toyota and you may need to pay a little bit of shipping but it would take some sting out.

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That's too bad. I know this isn't great news right now but if you need to order a new front diff now is the time. I plugged it in to Serra Toyota and you may need to pay a little bit of shipping but it would take some sting out.

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I was thinking about going with a revolution gear 4.88 set and an Eaton e locker.
 
That's too bad. I know this isn't great news right now but if you need to order a new front diff now is the time. I plugged it in to Serra Toyota and you may need to pay a little bit of shipping but it would take some sting out.

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Thanks for that link though, I’m going to order a steering rack for $521 shipped!
 
Take your front cover off and post some pictures. I love grenade porn.

FWIW, there is anectdotal evidence that, if you do not do your own work, it's cheaper to replace a front differential than rebuild it. People who charge to rebuild diffs must be raping the buying public...
 
Take your front cover off and post some pictures. I love grenade porn.

FWIW, there is anectdotal evidence that, if you do not do your own work, it's cheaper to replace a front differential than rebuild it. People who charge to rebuild diffs must be raping the buying public...
I’ve got a guy that has done work for my brother and a couple other people in the area I know of. He quoted me $300 per diff plus $100 of I put a locker up front. Thats if I pull the diff myself.

That sounded super reasonable to me. What do you think?
 
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If that's his price to set up a differential, super, super reasonable. That's what I would charge someone.
 
That's a steal at $400. I'd be very happy with that quote. I also agree, the diff is smoked.
 
Sorry for your situation.

I didn’t know spinning wheels when stuck was enough to kill a diff, but I guess the internal temp must have really gone up under those conditions?
 
Sorry for your situation.

I didn’t know spinning wheels when stuck was enough to kill a diff, but I guess the internal temp must have really gone up under those conditions?
From what I’ve read, spinning the front wheels and suddenly catching traction can break the diff.
 
For context I changed the fluid in my transfer case and both diffs over the past two days. The fluid from the t case was a little dark. There was zero shiny metal in it but the magnet was lightly coated black. Hard to know if it had ever been done and it’s the first time I did it in 30k. Truck has 265k (06). Both diffs had very clean oil and magnets and it was almost shocking. It made me think I changed the fluid and forgot.

Point being, even with minimal fluid changes there should never be metal in your diffs. This may be slightly diff erent if wheeling more. My truck is 99% on road though with full time awd diffs are always at work.

Op, good luck with the rebuild. As mentioned above, the issue is not spinning the wheels it’s generally spinning the wheels and having one wheel catch abruptly, and this is usually accompanied in a bouce situation.
 
For context I changed the fluid in my transfer case and both diffs over the past two days. The fluid from the t case was a little dark. There was zero shiny metal in it but the magnet was lightly coated black. Hard to know if it had ever been done and it’s the first time I did it in 30k. Truck has 265k (06). Both diffs had very clean oil and magnets and it was almost shocking. It made me think I changed the fluid and forgot.

Point being, even with minimal fluid changes there should never be metal in your diffs. This may be slightly diff erent if wheeling more. My truck is 99% on road though with full time awd diffs are always at work.

Op, good luck with the rebuild. As mentioned above, the issue is not spinning the wheels it’s generally spinning the wheels and having one wheel catch abruptly, and this is usually accompanied in a bouce situation.
Thanks for the info. I was kind of high centered so I definitely had more traction in one of my front wheels, I bet that’s exactly what did it.
 
Well, here’s the carnage. RIP to the ring gear.
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