How Much Grease in Steering Knuckle (1 Viewer)

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I recently purchased my LX450 and resealed the front axle. I followed Jonsey's video and packed 12oz of grease (Valvoline Palladium) into the knuckle (4oz in the birf and 8oz in the knuckle cavity). I've been daily driving it and haven't heard any popping or had any issues. However after reading this thread it made me worry that I don't have enough grease in the knuckles.

Yesterday I got under the LX and saw that the "grease line" was abou 1/2 the way up the knuckle ball on one side and about 1/3 of the way up the knuckle ball on the other side. This is where I kinda got confused, in theory the "grease line" on the knuckle ball should be roughly the same since I put in the same amount of grease into both knuckles. So it made me think that maybe the "grease line" method isn't accurate. So the I tried the zip tie method but couldn't really tell when I was hitting the "bottom" of the knuckle.

I searched before posting this but I can't really seem to find an exact process on how to do the "zip-tie" method or the "grease line" method accurately. I'm guessing either method should be pretty straight forward but I wanted to check if I was missing anything? or if anyone has any tips on how to get an accurate method accurately?
 
^^^ If you serviced the axle & did as you said, it would be really odd if your grease wasn't just fine (unless you been off-road a bunch).

If your not showing "birf soup" on either side, the only way the grease would want to migrate is if the axle breather was dead. The stock breather is infamous for that, plus alot of guys relocate the breather & cap the hose with a cheap fuel filter.

You could check your diff fluid for grease, and if it's clean & your not getting the soupy knuckles, there's really no other place grease could disappear - it only can go out past the felt swipers or the inner axle seal.
 
^^^ If you serviced the axle & did as you said, it would be really odd if your grease wasn't just fine (unless you been off-road a bunch).

If your not showing "birf soup" on either side, the only way the grease would want to migrate is if the axle breather was dead. The stock breather is infamous for that, plus alot of guys relocate the breather & cap the hose with a cheap fuel filter.

You could check your diff fluid for grease, and if it's clean & your not getting the soupy knuckles, there's really no other place grease could disappear - it only can go out past the felt swipers or the inner axle seal.

I definitely don't have "birf soup", whenever I stuck the zip-tie into both of the knuckles the grease was black and thick like it should be. What I'm more concerned about is whether I have enough grease in the knuckle or not. I did have some excess grease on the knuckle balls but it's a small amount and what I would consider normal for this knuckle design.

What I'm really trying clear up is the procedure on how to check if my knuckles are at the correct level? Whether that be the "ziptie" or "grease line method"

When I mentioned that the "grease line" seemed lower on one knuckle ball in comparison to the other I was simply trying to make a point that maybe the "grease line" method maybe isn't accurate (since the same amount of grease was put into each knuckle) or that I may simply be doing it wrong. I don't believe grease is getting into the diff because I made sure to clean the breather whenever I serviced the axle, not to say it couldn't be happening but I doubt it.
 
Since you only put 12 OZ of grease in each knuckle, your low, here are some photos from when Beno did his knuckles. When i helped rebuild my friends knuckles we used 2, 14 OZ tubes in each knuckle. Here's a link that may answer some of your questions.
Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ
re-packing_birfields-jpg.55923


far0026-jpg.55925
 
The "grease line" or the "zip tie" methods are not exact science. Each wiper seal is going to fit and wear differently against the ball. If you are having an issue with using a zip tie finding bottom on the knuckle then use something more rigid like a straw or a piece of stiff wire. You can always determine how empty the knuckle versus how full it is. Typically the consensus on the forum is that the knuckles should be 2/3 to 3/4 full. The 12oz put in each side is not enough in my opinion.
 
Since you only put 12 OZ of grease in each knuckle, your low, here are some photos from when Beno did his knuckles. When i helped rebuild my friends knuckles we used 2, 14 OZ tubes in each knuckle. Here's a link that may answer some of your questions.
Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ
re-packing_birfields-jpg.55923


far0026-jpg.55925

Thanks for the reply. For someone that's a newbie to the FJ80 world and doesn't have anyone local to ask for help/compare to it's kinda tough figuring things out like this. When I did my research before servicing the axle I saw that everything said for the knuckle to be 3/4 full and even with the pictures shown its hard for someone inexperienced, like myself, to understand how much grease that is. So I countiued searching for an actual amount of grease and found a bunch of different posts that said the amount used in the knuckle was anywhere from 12oz to 5 tubes (70oz) of grease per knuckle.

However just now when I looked at the FAQ again I saw that it doesn't state an amount to use (just 3/4 full) however in one of the pictures you can tell that there's 4 tubes of moly grease. Therefore I'm assuming it's 2 for each side like you also suggested. I'm going to go add a tube to each side and call it a day.

Thanks for the help!
 
The "grease line" or the "zip tie" methods are not exact science. Each wiper seal is going to fit and wear differently against the ball. If you are having an issue with using a zip tie finding bottom on the knuckle then use something more rigid like a straw or a piece of stiff wire. You can always determine how empty the knuckle versus how full it is. Typically the consensus on the forum is that the knuckles should be 2/3 to 3/4 full. The 12oz put in each side is not enough in my opinion.

Agreed, I now think 12oz isn't enough. I'm going to add another tube of grease to each side. Then I'm going to try using a straw and checking it that way. I'm guessing the bottom of the knuckle is considered to be the lower trunion bearing area?
 
Agreed, I now think 12oz isn't enough. I'm going to add another tube of grease to each side.

I'd start with a 1/2 tube. A tube is 14oz & offhand I want to say that 26oz total would greasepack the knuckle (worse than low grease).

The crap deal is I never could guess how to measure grease if in the gun, so it would be a serious hooker to try to measure it, or to try & stuff grease from a tub down the plug hole with anything other than the "corner of a ziploc bag" method.

Either way, tube or tub, - half the container per side & recheck. You can always add more, but removal would be a whole new level of lame.
 
I'd start with a 1/2 tube. A tube is 14oz & offhand I want to say that 26oz total would greasepack the knuckle (worse than low grease).

The crap deal is I never could guess how to measure grease if in the gun, so it would be a serious hooker to try to measure it, or to try & stuff grease from a tub down the plug hole with anything other than the "corner of a ziploc bag" method.

Either way, tube or tub, - half the container per side & recheck. You can always add more, but removal would be a whole new level of lame.

I did a little bit more than 1/2 a tube for each side. The way I managed to do it is to count the number of pumps with the gun per side, the closer I got to what I thought was the end the lower the number of pumps I did per side. For example I started at 100 pumps per side then went down to 30 per side and eventually just 5 per side until the tube ran out. I'll check the knuckles tomorrow and figure out if they need any more.
 
I'd start with a 1/2 tube. A tube is 14oz & offhand I want to say that 26oz total would greasepack the knuckle (worse than low grease).

In my friends case the 2, 14 OZ tubes we used didn't even come close to over filling the knuckles. By the time we got done hand packing the knuckles new upper & lower trunnion bearings, brass spindle bushing, and the CV joints we disassembled, cleaned & repacked. We ended up with just enough grease left over to fill the empty space around the CV joint in the knuckle housings about 2/3, to 3/4 the way full. In our case the two tubes worked out to be just the perfect amount to do the job. YMMV
 
I have grease coming out from between my rotor and dust shield and it's getting on the inside of my rim. The knuckles we're rebuilt last year and I haven't done much wheeling and a don't drive it too much.

I read in here that greases can only go through the axle seal or through the felt. Mine is doing neither.
 
I have grease coming out from between my rotor and dust shield and it's getting on the inside of my rim. The knuckles we're rebuilt last year and I haven't done much wheeling and a don't drive it too much.

I read in here that greases can only go through the axle seal or through the felt. Mine is doing neither.

The most common cause is the hub/wheel bearing seal failing.
 
The knuckles we're rebuilt last year and I haven't done much wheeling and a don't drive it too much.
Sometimes the seal surface is worn or otherwise has a flaw that will damage the new seals.
 
Looking for some advice here, I just picked up this rig. Front axle was serviced a few years ago. 20k miles ago I think. Anyway Do these knuckles look dry? The steering is a bit stiff compared to my buddies rig, I realize PS could be the issue here but I am also curious if dry knuckles could be a factor.
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I will be changing diff fluid and peeking into the birfs later this week I hope.
 
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Crap... I found a bunch of goopy gear oil in my front diff when I was changing it out. guess I am going to redo the axle seals now....I just got the vehicle and don't know how long it has had grease and gear oil mixed. is this bad for the ring and pinion gear? no metal was on the magnet on the drain plug.
 
Crap... I found a bunch of goopy gear oil in my front diff when I was changing it out. guess I am going to redo the axle seals now....I just got the vehicle and don't know how long it has had grease and gear oil mixed. is this bad for the ring and pinion gear? no metal was on the magnet on the drain plug.

It's normal to have moly grease migrate into the gear oil and it isn't necessarily bad. Something about the axle seal working better than one direction, or there is a vacuum in the diff that sucks it out. I don't know, you can read more threads about it. Of course, a ton of grease would not be good, it should certainly still be a liquid at least.
 
Crap... I found a bunch of goopy gear oil in my front diff when I was changing it out. guess I am going to redo the axle seals now....I just got the vehicle and don't know how long it has had grease and gear oil mixed. is this bad for the ring and pinion gear? no metal was on the magnet on the drain plug.

Some is normal, how long ago was the last change? The front needs to be changed more often than most diffs. Check the breather, better yet extend and change it to free flowing with a little filter.
 
Some is normal, how long ago was the last change? The front needs to be changed more often than most diffs. Check the breather, better yet extend and change it to free flowing with a little filter.

I think my plan is to see if I can remedy the breather. and do a few fluid changes to rid the grease. I have no idea when it was last changed. I just bought my land cruiser. I always do preventative maintenance on new vehicles. usually for me I like doing it myself. its how I discovered the gloopy gear oil.
 
It's normal to have moly grease migrate into the gear oil and it isn't necessarily bad. Something about the axle seal working better than one direction, or there is a vacuum in the diff that sucks it out. I don't know, you can read more threads about it. Of course, a ton of grease would not be good, it should certainly still be a liquid at least.

haha yeah it was still a liquid. I will post what I find as I dig in deeper. I am happy I found it though.
 
If you travel in high water (over the axle) regularly, you are more likely to suck moly from your birf into your axle. The water hitting the diff means quick cooling. This creates a vacuum that the diff breathers can't keep up with. Living in South Louisiana, going through water over your axle is common. I've had grease in the diffs of both my 80s. After rebuilding both several times, I added extensions, filters, and removed the flapper from both. The improved breathability should reduce or eliminate sucking in grease. Extending the breathers is a quick job. Helluva lot quicker than a axle rebuild. Considering how easy it was, I would recommend everyone do it. Took <30 minutes.
 

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