Cops need to start ticketing themselves then. The amount of cop cars I see constantly running and unattended for long periods of time is crazy.
how much fuel will my 80 use idling all day (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cody c
- Start date
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Nelson verses Abbotsford is day and night when it comes to vehicle thefts. AFAIK, police cars also have GPS units on them and can be easily tracked. They are probably a bit harder to break into than your average Japanese import. If ticketing reduces the number of thefts and helps put a lid on insurance premium increases, than it is all good for me. I doubt they would give someone a ticket if there was an effective antitheft devise such as a brake or clutch pedal lock being used and the doors were all locked.
Steering wheel bars are next to useless. The bar may be tough but most steering wheels can be easily snipped with bolt cutters. They are just foam an a thin bit of light steel. Brake pedals and clutch pedals are usually spring steel. I am sure it the pedal lock could eventually be beat but most thieves are not looking for a challenge.
You still have to fuel the webasto and leaving your vehicle running is going to pass the $100 month pretty quickly.
I see the reasoning for the ticketing. My thoughts were based mostly on emissions and such. I am in agreeance for that reason to minimize thefts and keeping insurance down.
I honestly don't think my truck would've started without the Webasto today. I was in a bit of a hurry so I tried to start it up before the Webasto had a chance to work and it wasn't happening. I didn't push it too hard because I didn't want to drain down the battery, but if I had to guess, I doubt any amount of cranking would've made a difference.
How cold was it? My diesel 80 starts almost instantly down to at least -30C... It does have the benefit of the 24 volt starting system though.
Douglas' rig should be 24V start too. Coldest I've started mine without plugging in is -32C later in the AM. It was colder than that overnight. It started on the first turn. If you got a good battery and glow/preheat system, then it shouldn't be a problem. The main issue is thick oil. If you are out in the bush, it is always a good idea to bring with you a metal garbage can lid. It makes a good base for starting fires on the snow and also once the wood burns down to coals, you can slid it under the oil pan to warm up the oil a bit. Maybe not as nifty or techie as a Webasto, but it is dependable old school that won't cost you more than the labor to get the wood and wait for it to burn down to coals. Just be careful not to burn your truck. 
I think my fuel was starting to gel. Truck died on the way to work today, but I haven't had a chance to mess with it.
First winter owning a diesel and I assumed winter diesel without additives would be good enough.
Temp is -32C.
First winter owning a diesel and I assumed winter diesel without additives would be good enough.
Temp is -32C.
Winter diesel should not gel at -32 C. But to be fair, I always am putting in PowerService additive for lube. In the winter, I use their winter formula. However, if you do notice power loss in extreme cold, I would suspect your fuel filter. Most fuel filters wick moisture. When it is well below zero, it just adds to the fuel restriction that an already dirty filter will give you.
canucksafari said:
My buddies diesel froze up on him during our cold snap in Rupert.
I use power service religiously and I am quite generous with it.
I have had no issues during this snap starting at minus 25 not including the wind chill. Two cycles of the glow system and she purrs just fine.
I more worry about my oil during the cold starts (rotella 10w/30)
Actually, winter grade diesel will start gelling up when it gets down to -32 or -34... Then again, at those temperatures even minimal amounts of water in the fuel or dirty filters can cause freezing...
Theres always the arctic grade diesel too (atleast over here during coldest time of year thats what you get from pumps), which i believe is good for down to -46c... below that, well, its better to just stay home
It is whatever grade diesel they sell north of Willy's Pond. Like I said, I have had many trip up there in the winter at below -32 and no issues with gelling. My only problem was getting enough heat to keep the inside of the truck warm. It only happened to me once and that was because I had B40 in the tank. Added a generous dose of winter additive, filled tank with diesel, took it for a rough ride to get the good diesel to the injectors, and then changed the fuel filter. Problem solved.
- Thread starter
- #33
truck problems:
I let it run all day the other day and there was oil on the ground when I got out there.
Oil pressure gauge is maxed to the top with the needle. And it looks like the source of the oil is exhaust side turbo seal area.
I think I may have got condensation/ice plug in the turbo drain line or something. Though the vehicle idles quite hot that I wouldnt have thought this possible.
The gauge falls to the bottom after it sits over night, and then is up to max not long after starting. The cruiser is parked till sunday, I need to find out the layout of the oil passages and then Im gonna do an oil change and drop the return line from the turbo to check for blockages.
A webasto woulda been a smarter idea. FML.
I let it run all day the other day and there was oil on the ground when I got out there.
Oil pressure gauge is maxed to the top with the needle. And it looks like the source of the oil is exhaust side turbo seal area.
I think I may have got condensation/ice plug in the turbo drain line or something. Though the vehicle idles quite hot that I wouldnt have thought this possible.
The gauge falls to the bottom after it sits over night, and then is up to max not long after starting. The cruiser is parked till sunday, I need to find out the layout of the oil passages and then Im gonna do an oil change and drop the return line from the turbo to check for blockages.
A webasto woulda been a smarter idea. FML.
My 1HDT temperature gauge will not move AT ALL if I idle from cold. And if the ambient temp is below -25°C, I can watch the needle drop when idling in traffic. Same thing on my wife's VW TDI.
Not sure why a Cummins would be any different.
Yep, my 1HDT is the same, to even begin to get the engine to warm up you need to use the idle up knob.
My diesel Audi gets around the issue by having an auxiliary electric coolant heater that keeps the coolant warm in colder weather. I once switched it off to see if it made any difference, left at idle at about -10C with the interior heater on, the coolant temperature gauge had dropped back to the cold position in less than 10 minutes!
My diesel Audi gets around the issue by having an auxiliary electric coolant heater that keeps the coolant warm in colder weather. I once switched it off to see if it made any difference, left at idle at about -10C with the interior heater on, the coolant temperature gauge had dropped back to the cold position in less than 10 minutes!
If I have to idle mine for any significant length of time in the winter, I put the transfer in N and the transmission in 5th and pull the hand throttle. Also, run lots of accessories to load the engine.
- Thread starter
- #37
Its probably different for 3 reasons:
electric fan
fuel pump idle set a bit high
timing advance (KSB) to avoid soot.
Though it does need to idle for quite a while before it reaches mid gauge temp.
cody c said:
It's funny how you put an acsd on your cummins while most 1hd-t/1hz owners rip them off
I do have to drive my TD4.2 to get the thermostat to open up - even in the summer. Idling alone, even a high idle, with no load will not allow the engine coolant to get hot enough. BTW, I have the cold climate thermostat. It does make a big difference from the tropic thermostat that was in it. At least now I can retain some temperature coasting down long steep grades in the winter.
Once an engine is to operating temperature, you should be able to maintain it with your idle-up knob set to about 1100-1200 rpm. I've done it at about -20C for about an hour and noticed it seems to work on my TD4.2. But of course, every cooling system is a bit different.
Once an engine is to operating temperature, you should be able to maintain it with your idle-up knob set to about 1100-1200 rpm. I've done it at about -20C for about an hour and noticed it seems to work on my TD4.2. But of course, every cooling system is a bit different.
Idling my 1HDT at 1200-1400 RPM will keep the heat in longer, but the needle will still drop. This is in winter. In summer, the temperature will stay pretty steady.
