PowRyte 4.2 oz hvlp spray gun. Got it on Amazon. Sorry, not getting the link right.
How much for a decent paint job?
- Thread starter mochosla
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Going to be doing my own in my garage in the next couple months here. I went with the Harbor Freight HVLP gun with the included regulator on the gun ($29 on sale plus you can get the additional 20% so all in about $25). I will be test spraying it here in the near future on some replacement doors to see that I like the color I found, a Sherwin William Farm Implement paint. Supposed to be a much heavier duty enamel paint that is used for standard colors (no metallic). For the standard color (is closest I could find to the Rustoleum Deep Slate color) a gallon will run me about $65, and paint place said that I could spray just that or I could add a hardner/activater if I wanted to help speed up the process and be able to sand between coats.
I am interested to see how this works out. With the insane pricing on paint jobs DIY seems to be the way to go for many of us
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Yeah that was my justification behind it but really it all comes down to what you want to do with the truck. If I can come out with a 20ft paint job then I will be happy. Really at this point I am just trying to finish all the rust repair and then make the thing one complete color that doesn't look half bad.
- Thread starter
- #26
I'd love to do something like this but I just don't have the space to setup a paint enclosure. I guess I could try to build something in my garage but I believe it is illegal in California.
BTW. I thought of another option. I can buy an original paint blue hood from Land Cruiser parts and then I can buff the entire car. I think it would look very decent and I would save a lot of cash for now.
Thank you.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
All depends on your ingenuity!!! From my days of working with VOC Compliance for CA, I believe it only applies if you spray over a certain amount within a given timeframe (like more than one vehicle per day or so many gallons of paint). That was close to 15yrs ago so I am sure things have changed but my buddies dad did it in his garage in the late 90s so who knows.
Plan for me is that I have an expanded one car garage that has rafters. I will be hanging large plastic sheeting from the rafters and also stapling up to the rafters to create my own paint booth. Lowes/Home Depot sell large rolls of the stuff for like $25 which I think will cover a majority of my area. Throw another one on the floor prior to pulling into the garage to keep the floor clean and then tape all your edges and you should be good. Love all the videos of the "$100 Paint Job" when really that only accounts for the cost of paint normally.
Plan for me is that I have an expanded one car garage that has rafters. I will be hanging large plastic sheeting from the rafters and also stapling up to the rafters to create my own paint booth. Lowes/Home Depot sell large rolls of the stuff for like $25 which I think will cover a majority of my area. Throw another one on the floor prior to pulling into the garage to keep the floor clean and then tape all your edges and you should be good. Love all the videos of the "$100 Paint Job" when really that only accounts for the cost of paint normally.
I may be doing the same thing. I thought about a vinyl wrap but I want the paint to sort of match with the inner door and under the hood.
Upon doing my body work, I was having a hell of a time trying to understand why my paint code on my 60 was not matching the paint on my 60. Turns out the PO had repainted it. With my rear hatch replacement it is the right color.
I may get one of those cheap paint jobs, but my budget is getting tighter daily. the biggest thing is the windows, as ours are full rubber seals vs the sealer type, this adds challenges with painting. Most companies want to pull the windows out. I really do not want to do this as mine do not leak.
I am thinking of painting the whole truck in my garage as well. I will have to seal the doors with a couple of small 6" hoses and fans for circulation. I think the key after you do this is the wet sanding with 2000+ grit then polish it. It should come out real nice.
What I do not want at all is a clear coat. While they look nice, they are just not for this vehicle IMO.
For now it is an up in the air thing, my 60 for example is more weekend fun, but not a full on restore. + the wife is rather pissy when any painting in my garage.
If you do paint it in the garage (aside from the fans) get a good paint respirator, like a 3M one.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Yup and Yup..... I am planning on going with a single stage (which the farm implement paint is) to cut out the need for a separate clear coating session (which will save me time and money). And sanding is the main portion to getting everything down to a nice, even, non-orange peel job and then cutting, polishing and sealing with a good polisher. Actually I found today that Eastwood released a video a couple days ago about a DIY paint job at home. Lots of good information in there and like anything else it just comes down to taking your time to do things right the first time. I do not plan on doing skim coats and lots of body filler (bond) to fill in low areas other than on those sections where I have had to weld in new panels. I am debating on whether or not I want to shoot with the doors all closed (like many at home paint jobs do) or with the doors open to get the jambs. The color I am painting is semi-close to what the original color looks like but still different enough that you would be able to easily tell it had been resprayed. But then again the PO before me had already done that so its all good.
Oh yeah the decent P95 or P100 respirators (passive style not an active one) are CHEAP.. Your talking $28 from Amazon with a number of extra filters and the filters are ease to find at Lowes/Home Depot.
This is the specific guy I am talking about ... best part about this one is that a buddy recommended it because it can easily fit under most welding helmets, so if you are doing LOTS of welding or welding something that can potentially put off hazardous fumes (like zinc or galvanized coated pipes/metals) then it will work just fine.
You guy's drive LandCruiser's that barely get double digit gas mileage with stone age emissions systems that may...or may not even function, yet are concerned about a one time spray paint job?
You're funny!
You're funny!
- Thread starter
- #31
Your point is???
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Quiet you!!! Hope all is well Doug!
I think his point is, worrying about your emissions or carbon footprint doing something you'll be lucky (or unlucky) to do once in 20 years is like pissing off the pier and then worrying about rising sea levels, don't sweat it, just do it!!
I just want it to look nice. As does my wife.
bwesty
SILVER Star
Don't get it repainted. Buy the matching colored straight hood and get your paint polished and detailed. It will look a thousand times better for a fraction of the cost and probably in the long run be a lot more durable than a cheap paint job and it will all match from top to bottom. Like others have stated, you will amazed how well that paint will clean up.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
@gregnash, it's all about the prep and primer...take your time on the prep. MASK MASK MASK, cause the primer you want to use goes on THICK and won't come off of whatever it gets on. don't prime right up to your tape lines to avoid the need to remove the hard edge left behind, and only prime the LOW areas- simply scuff the rest of the surface provided the paint on it is in good shape (it should be) block sand it and lay the color on thick. My guy said he used almost 2 gallons of single stage urethane on mine. the single stage is how we can "buff out" whatever future dings we're going to get. about the only other thing I want to pretend to know, is that you'll want to spray from BOTTOM TO TOP...HTH
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
@mochosla
THIS^^^ was my MO for YEARS; and was to be my MO for years to come till I got my fender bendered...little dents and dings look fine thru 30 YO factory patina...just as long as the paint isn't chipping off and it's still sealed against moisture...truth is, a factory quality paint job is prolly well north of 10Gs...unless you have the knowledge, and tools and the 300 hours to invest into the prep. even with that, you're going to be $1500 into abrasives, bondo (yes, Toyota did white coats...), primer, reducers, and color; not to mention the $4000 worth of plastic and rubber parts you're going to need to compliment the brand new sheen...
lower expectations = more easily solved problems.
Similar issue, but it was rust repair. had to cut and weld.
Strip truck of all rubber and emblems, fix rust, weld holes in doors, sand, prime, and re-rhino line hood, wheel arches. Paint in Toyota color code 416 dune beige in a matte finish, $4500.
From this
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From this
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So if I get a cheapie paint job now, will it cause me a lot of headaches if I want to do it right several years down the road? I've got some roof rust I need to address before it becomes a problem, but I can't put 10K into a paint job right now.
