I would expect you'd need to use an AFR gauge to get an AFR reading off the motor.
How much boost can 1HZ-T handle? (2 Viewers)
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I would expect you'd need to use an AFR gauge to get an AFR reading off the motor.
Yeah that's what I know.
It's all in fuel adjustments, well and boost levels too.
Fuel wise,
If you increase fuel you will decrease your afr
If you decrease fuel you will increase your afr
It's all in fuel adjustments, well and boost levels too.
Fuel wise,
If you increase fuel you will decrease your afr
If you decrease fuel you will increase your afr
I see, thanks. I hoped there was a simple way, since the ratio is used here so freely 
cheers,
Jan
cheers,
Jan
I see, thanks. I hoped there was a simple way, since the ratio is used here so freely
cheers,
Jan
Any chassis dyno will have an AFR gauge to read this while tuning, I suspect that's where guys are getting the figures from. People not using dyno's seem to tune via EGT instead.
You can correlate EGT to A/F ratio. But you need an accurate EGT gauge and IME very few are.
Most EGT gauges are fitted too shallow and read cold. The probe needs to extend to the centre of the exhaust stream pre-turbo.
You also need to work on EGT's in the worst case (long hill, heat-soak it so you know you've got the max temp). Having a hot tune and driving to the lag in the gauge is just fooling yourself.
Most EGT gauges are fitted too shallow and read cold. The probe needs to extend to the centre of the exhaust stream pre-turbo.
You also need to work on EGT's in the worst case (long hill, heat-soak it so you know you've got the max temp). Having a hot tune and driving to the lag in the gauge is just fooling yourself.
Good to know that I've been intuitively doing it at least mostly right!
My probe tip reaches dead center in the manifold pipe immediately pre-turbo. My tuning is based on a fully loaded vehicle, long, long steep hills at the highest elevation I regularly drive, as heat soaked as it gets. This is also the method I've used to measure the effectiveness of my intercooling (water-air) as it gives real numbers, unlike anything I can produce in the city where the water temperature gets a chance to move around.
1HD-T so not completely relevant to this thread, yet relevant to the direction it is currently traveling.
I've only ever "tuned" by EGTs / visible smoke but I do have a 1/4NPT port in my dump pipe so I might pick up a sensor for personal interest. Is there anything I should consider or is it just the same as any old petrol tuner using a wideband O2 sensor? Any fuel type compatibility issues?
My probe tip reaches dead center in the manifold pipe immediately pre-turbo. My tuning is based on a fully loaded vehicle, long, long steep hills at the highest elevation I regularly drive, as heat soaked as it gets. This is also the method I've used to measure the effectiveness of my intercooling (water-air) as it gives real numbers, unlike anything I can produce in the city where the water temperature gets a chance to move around.
1HD-T so not completely relevant to this thread, yet relevant to the direction it is currently traveling.
I've only ever "tuned" by EGTs / visible smoke but I do have a 1/4NPT port in my dump pipe so I might pick up a sensor for personal interest. Is there anything I should consider or is it just the same as any old petrol tuner using a wideband O2 sensor? Any fuel type compatibility issues?
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This is a statement best remembered and acted upon
Big power 1HZ with Gturbo
There has been a slight delay..... the fancy pants intake manifold that was made for the 1HZ interferes with the top in the inj pump :-(
Not my car, but its a bummer because we all want to see 200kW at wheels (or at least 180) on a 1HZ.
So, looking for an alternative fancy pants intake manifold
There has been a slight delay..... the fancy pants intake manifold that was made for the 1HZ interferes with the top in the inj pump :-(
Not my car, but its a bummer because we all want to see 200kW at wheels (or at least 180) on a 1HZ.
So, looking for an alternative fancy pants intake manifold
There has been a slight delay..... the fancy pants intake manifold that was made for the 1HZ interferes with the top in the inj pump :-(
Not my car, but its a bummer because we all want to see 200kW at wheels (or at least 180) on a 1HZ.
So, looking for an alternative fancy pants intake manifold
Please please please post some photos of this set up after.
What vehicle is this in?
Now would there be a big difference in EDIT: reliability running an AFR at 18:1 vs. 20:1 vs. 22:1
I think even if the stock 1hz runs at 15:1 to 16:1 AFR I would think even this added air increase wouldn't be melting anything. Its technically running cooler if there is more air being pumped in at correct boost pressures assuming its running above the stock AFR and running safe max sustained EGT temperatures.
Safari's turbo kit directions seem to be the most informative from anything that I have found.
I think even if the stock 1hz runs at 15:1 to 16:1 AFR I would think even this added air increase wouldn't be melting anything. Its technically running cooler if there is more air being pumped in at correct boost pressures assuming its running above the stock AFR and running safe max sustained EGT temperatures.
Safari's turbo kit directions seem to be the most informative from anything that I have found.
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ok let me rephrase the first sentence,
I'm wondering if you were to run say a boost level of say 15lbs or whatever.
If your running a max safe egt and getting say 18:1 AFR is it truly a bad thing??
I'm wondering if you were to run say a boost level of say 15lbs or whatever.
If your running a max safe egt and getting say 18:1 AFR is it truly a bad thing??
A/F ratio dictates EGT (with other factors). You can't run rich A/F ratio and safe EGT unless you've got a short probe and a dodgy reading.
ok I know the two go hand in hand.
But it is possible with different turbos due to different efficiencies to get different AFR levels at say a set boost level and EGT isn't it?
I would be curious to know how accurate running a safe max egt of 1200 deg F pre turbo would correlate to into AFR ratios. Mainly curious on my tuning and what its AFR would be. I guess the only way to check would be to hook up a gauge.
But it is possible with different turbos due to different efficiencies to get different AFR levels at say a set boost level and EGT isn't it?
I would be curious to know how accurate running a safe max egt of 1200 deg F pre turbo would correlate to into AFR ratios. Mainly curious on my tuning and what its AFR would be. I guess the only way to check would be to hook up a gauge.
If you had a really really crappy turbo, high boost and no intercooler then you can hit high EGT with a high AF ratio.
But there's no point in that and the reverse is what we try to do anyway.
yeah i figured so,
Especially with one of graeme's turbos, he gives you an efficiency range anyway with the turbo he supplies.
So technically running what I am right now with safe egts temps is it safe to say I am probably above 20:1 AFR or is that a total guess?
Especially with one of graeme's turbos, he gives you an efficiency range anyway with the turbo he supplies.
So technically running what I am right now with safe egts temps is it safe to say I am probably above 20:1 AFR or is that a total guess?
crushers
post ho
on and on he rambles
Douglass, what brand of pyro are you running that gives you a short probe?
I run the auto meter pyro kit, 2" long probe, if you run this probe in a 2.5" or 3" pipe then you are sticking well into the flow even if you use the weld on bung (1/2" long).
into the exhaust manifold on a 3B, 1PZ, 1HZ, HDT and you are still well into the center of the exhaust flow.
so, what probe have you found that is "too short" to read properly? this will help the ignorant masses to avoid purchasing that particular brand.
Douglass, what brand of pyro are you running that gives you a short probe?
I run the auto meter pyro kit, 2" long probe, if you run this probe in a 2.5" or 3" pipe then you are sticking well into the flow even if you use the weld on bung (1/2" long).
into the exhaust manifold on a 3B, 1PZ, 1HZ, HDT and you are still well into the center of the exhaust flow.
so, what probe have you found that is "too short" to read properly? this will help the ignorant masses to avoid purchasing that particular brand.
Here's the toyodiy link to the Coaster 1HZ-T (also Intercooled).The part numbers for pistons etc seem valid.I also have some pictures taken of the Coaster Parts Manual showing the 1HZ-T layout and parts.Strangely this was from the Aus Coaster Parts Manual when the 1HZ-t seems only to be sent to Europe.
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/g_E_199301 ... XW1_1.html
