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How many bananas for a third member swap?

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by crucible, Mar 22, 2004.

  1. crucible

    crucible

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    '83 FJ60, 155K, 2nd owner, current d/d

    My seal a foot or so before the (rear) third member (pinion seal?) just started leaking the other evening, with the rotating driveshaft spraying geal oil at the exhaust (a lovely smell btw:-X). At any rate, the last time I changed the oil in the differential, I had some metal shavings come out of the oil :eek:. As it's always been reliable however (though noisy from what I thought was slightly damaged/worn internals), I didn't think I'd be in any hurry to have everything rebuilt.

    But as I've got to change the seal anyway to get up and running, and the fact I can get what should be a decent (entire) used third member with gears for a decent price, is it a decent idea to swapping the whole thing out and be done with it?

    I can turn a wrench (shocks, manifold gaskets, carbs, etc.), but I don't have a garage nor other resources, nor do I know anyone near me with experience who could help. I have never had any experience with gears/differentials, etc. That being said, how many :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: would it be to do this, if recommended (and the time)?

    Unfortunately, my Haynes doesn't speak to this, and I don't have a factory manual to gauge what all is involved, and if I could do it in a day or so. It seems fairly simple in thinking about it, but then again.....

    Advice and/or instructions gratefully received.

    (Also, my front birf started dripping recently as well (sigh), and I'm fairly sure I might not want to do that, though not discounting it altogether. Any ideas of price and/or labor hours and parts to get it done would also be appreciated.)

    Cruc
     
  2. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    How many wrenches are you?
     
  3. Cruiserdrew

    Cruiserdrew SILVER Star

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    It is very straight forward. Pull the cover, pull the cross-shaft pin. Then pull out the cross-shaft, the spacerblock will also come out. Then push the axles IN, and the c-clips will fall out or if not, pull them out. Then pull the axles OUT. After that it's a matter of the 14 mm nuts on the 3rd member side, once they are off you can work the diff out. Be careful, that is one heavy sucker, and it will be awkward under the truck. Install the new 3rd with a new paper gasket and reverse the above process. Be careful also with the washers behind the spider gears. You have to make sure they too are lined up when you slide in the cross shaft. Now that I've done this numerous times its about 1 :banana:. The first time, especially with no facilities and little experience, 3 :banana:. Make sure you have heavy duty jack stands, and be careful. One other tip-I would replace the axle oil seals at the same time. It's a 5 minute chore, and you will have the axles out anyway. Good luck.
     
  4. nocents

    nocents SILVER Star

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    Look in the tech section there is a write-up on rebuilding differentials. Swapping 3rd is relatively easy (3 out of 5 banana) rebuilding a bit more complex.

    nocents
     
  5. Cruisergreg

    Cruisergreg

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    This is almost a :banana: job, OK maybe 2. I just did it this morning (I only had toast). Here is all it is:

    1. Drain oil
    2. Disconnect driveshaft from pinion flange
    3. Jack up vehicle rear axle and place on jack stands, release pharking brake, remove wheels and brake drums (use bolts in the treaded holes to force drums off shoes).
    4. Remove inspection cover
    5. Remove bolt holding shaft inside carrier and slide shaft out.
    6. Remove spider gears and shims
    7. Push both axles in toward the diff and remove c-clips from axle ends, then remove side gears
    8. Pull both axles out, being carefull not to damage the seals
    9. Remove 3rd member mounting nuts and pull it away from the axle (it's heavy!)
    10. Reinstallation is just the opposite.
     
  6. crucible

    crucible

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    Thanks guys; I think I'm going to try this, and it might give me enough confidence to attempt the knuckles in the process. I'm going to go ahead and not only replace the axle oil seals, but the bearingas while I'm at it. And the rear shoes too.

    Assuming it's an entire (third member) assembly with ring and pinion in place (etc.) in good operating condition, is there anything to worry about with regards to preload or dynamic balance? Or should it be a bolt on and go?

    Cruc
     
  7. cavsfj40

    cavsfj40

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    bolt it on and go. a word of caution, the third is heavy and if has been in place for a while, it will take some beating. do not lay underneath it when you are loosening it. iit'll crush your head if you let it. if the shavings weren't like large pieces, then i would just replace the seal. it is a lot easier than doing the third. some "metal flake" in the diff oil is normal.