How hard should I beat on the Pinion Shaft to Remove it? (1 Viewer)

[NikP]

The way the Haynes manual reads, it should just slide out but it appears the bolt that locks it in place broke and has cause it to move back an forth for a while. I noticed when I opened up the rear-end there was 1/4 inch of the shaft sticking out. I'm not sure if it's deformed or what but it won't come out easily. It turns so the locking pin does't seem to keep it from spinning in place.

I don't want to screw something up so I'm searching for advice before I get mad and start beating the ??|!&*^%$ out of it.

I added a picture which shows the lock pin - I've beat it pretty good to get it this far and it gets stuck pretty solid. I can push it back and the shaft turns freely.

1. Should it just slide out?
2. Does it matter which direction to remove the shaft? It seems to go one direction further than the other.
3. I assume there's no other way to get axles out without pinion shaft removed?

4. Final question - Why does everything I touch on this thing seem to take more time to fix and more money than I planned on? (I think I already know the answer.... I thought this was going to be an easy re-do.)


1975 fj40

 

[yotawheeler]

haha...i can feel your pain on #4, every time i dig into something on my '74 its like opening pandora's box....never just a simple fix, you just gotta roll with the puches or u'll end up selling ur rig before long and that just aint cool

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

That is not the "pinion shaft" but the "cross shaft" in the differential.

I'd imagine that broken retaining bolt is keeping the cross shaft from sliding out. It looks like the cross shaft only needs to come out a little bit moer to clear than broken-off bolt; perhaps rotate the diff and tap on the other end of the cross shaft to push it out a bit more?

You might be better off just getting another third member and installing it into your rig than trying to repair this questionable diff.

Good luck!

Alan

 

[zebrabeefj40]

Man, that looks like it could get ugly!

To answer your questions:
1. Yes, it should just slide right out normally. But as you've guessed the locking bolt has broken so now it's anyone's guess how easy it will be.

2. It does not matter which way you slide the pin out. It is the same size along the entire length. I'd guess some of the oil has dried out on the shaft kinda jamming it in along with any metal the broken bolt has dug up. While I have not yet had to deal with this problem I think I'd start by driving the pin far enough out to remove the broken bolt (almost there in the pic). Then I'd try driving the pin out the other direction; less distance to go to get out of the damaged area of the carrier.

3. You are correct. That pin has to come out to remove the axles.

4. I can only add you're not alone on this one! Part of the old vehicle ownership experience I think...

Good luck!

Nick

 

[Seth_O]

Mine was in there fairly securely as well - i.e. it didn't just slide out. In order to get it out I pulled out the locking bolt (pictured, broken) and put a long, thin punch in bolt hole. I pulled the cross shaft out with steady pulling on the punch while I twisted it side-to-side.

Took a few minutes, but eventually it came out w/o noticeable damage to any of the components.

 

[NikP]

It's Stuck Now What??????

Well I've sprayed PB8 on it. Let it set. I then had a brass drift machined for me and I've beat the !@#$%^&&* out of it with a 3lbs hammer. I can drive it both directions and it becomes solid after 3/8 - 1/2 inch. I was able to get the broken lock piece out but that didn't improve things. The center spacer is able to move when it's bound so I have no clue what's going on.


What should I do? Keep wacking? Since this is the only way to get axles and 3rd member out I'm screwed if this doesn't come out. Any ideas?

 

[Pin_Head]

You have two options:
1. Get the remains of the cross pin out first, which will make getting the spider gear shaft out easy. Stick a small piece of welding rod on the remains placing it in the hole by momentarily energizing it with a jumper cable to the battery. Ground the ring gear so you don't weld your bearings too. This will spot weld the rod on to the pin so you can get it out.

2. Bust the cross pin by beating the crap out of the shaft. A 5 pound sledge and a steel drift would be the minimum.

 

[NikP]

The cross pin is out. (I want to confirm that by cross pin you mean the long pin with threads that locks the shaft in place). The spider gear shaft is the shaft that runs through two gears and has a spacer in the middle. This shaft is the one that moves back and forth but won't come out. I can't for the life of me understand what's got it locked in place. The manual shows this just sliding out without tools once the locking pin is removed.


Sounds like a bigger hammer?

 

[Poser]

Sounds like a bigger hammer?

Yep, along with a larger, tool steel punch, and safety glasses.


You will likely end up replacing the carrier after this affair.

 

[NikP]

Update

Okay sports fans... here's an update from the 7th inning stretch.

Looks like my fear's confirmed. With a bit of rust and water evidence in the oil it looks like the spider gears have welded and spun on this shaft. I've got it as far as I can by driving it. I'll have to rig up some kind of puller the get it the rest of the way out.

Looks like a new third-member may be in order or possibly more.

Might be good excuse for axles with disc brakes... anyone got a set?

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

"Nik," sorry to about all the grief! It should have been much easier!!

Look for a 1988-90 FJ62 wagon in a junkyard; the front and rear axles would be good donors for your upgrade project. You'd take both third members (4.11 ratio with fine-spline pinions) and the front axle disc brake parts can be swapped onto your 40 Series front axle tube.

Good luck!

Alan