How do you tell if the leak is from Oil pump instead of Crankshaft seal? (1 Viewer)

[LCHMOOM]

A month ago, I replaced the timing belt and crank seal on my vehicle. While doing so, I noticed some minor rust on the crankshaft, which I cleaned off and applied a thin layer of RTV (FIGP) around it. I believe the installation was done properly. (OEM seal from partsouq)

However, the oil leak has returned after a month, albeit very slowly. I've recently learned that the oil pump could be a potential culprit.

What would be the minimum steps to efficiently rule out the oil pump as the cause of this leak? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[2001LC]

Did you seal the tension pulley bolt threads?

 

[LCHMOOM]

Did you seal the tension pulley bolt threads?

No, I don’t think I did this
I also realize that I could miss installing the tensioner pulley washer, do tkt021 come with the washer or I have to reuse the old one?

 

[2001LC]

Washer (spacer) does not come with T-belt kits tensioner pulley, and must be installed.

Not sealing pulley bolt threads, guarantees oil leak. Captured nut, is a hole through oil pump.

 

[2001LC]

****** While doing so, I noticed some minor rust on the crankshaft, which I cleaned off and applied a thin layer of RTV (FIGP) around it. I*****


View attachment 3778272

Crankshaft do tend to get rusty, where harmonic balance slides over it. I clean shaft and harmonic balancer and applied a thin layer of marin grease. Which reduce chance of rust. Making removing next time easy.

 

[LCHMOOM]

Washer (spacer) does not come with T-belt kits tensioner pulley, and must be installed.

Not sealing pulley bolt threads, guarantees oil leak. Captured nut, is a hole through oil pump.

Which tensioner pulley are you referring to? Are you asking about the timing belt tensioner pulley with the washer I mentioned? I followed the OTRAMM channel and didn't see the guy seal that bolt.
I removed the fan clutch, crankshaft pulley, and lower timing cover to inspect the lower area of the timing belt today.
Thank God I didn't forget the washer. It’s installed correctly, and there’s no oil leak around that area. Oil appears to be coming from a higher and deeper spot.
Could this lead to the oil pump?

 

[jerryb]

Oil Pump Leaking - Post TB Service?

Hey all, 2001 LC100 with 300,000 miles. Had a small oil leak before TB/WP service. Maybe a dime sized spot after sitting for a few days. Had a local Toyota Shop do the TB/WP and had them replace the cam and crank seals while they were in there. Since that TB/WP service (April), the oil leak...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[2001LC]

Which tensioner pulley are you referring to? Are you asking about the timing belt tensioner pulley with the washer I mentioned? I followed the OTRAMM channel and didn't see the guy seal that bolt.
I removed the fan clutch, crankshaft pulley, and lower timing cover to inspect the lower area of the timing belt today.
Thank God I didn't forget the washer. It’s installed correctly, and there’s no oil leak around that area. Oil appears to be coming from a higher and deeper spot.
Could this lead to the oil pump?

Yes, t-belt No. 1 pulley tensioner bolt threads. They (threads) will leak if not sealed.

Personally, I do not replace cam or crank seals, unless weeping. The only ones I have replaced, where because replaced improperly or aftermarket seals before I serviced. I've done 100 series T-belt service on as much as 380K miles and as old as 25 year old. Still had factory seals, that were not leaking.

Many shops, make procedural errors', doing T-belt and most services on the 100 series.
Here's what the Factory Service Manual recommends on No. 1 pulley bolt threads.
"Precoated parts" means sealants on threads. (note: Newer years FSM, also recommend sealant on N0. 2 pulley (idler) bolt threads.

@jerryb posted a link, to the likely leak. If not higher up, like head covers, cam seals. Or lower like the tensioner bolt threads or crank seal. Which is Oil Pump O-ring is at top of oil pump. This should be apparent leak now, and would've likely been during the T-belt service.

If Oil Pump O-ring the leak, you've 3 choices:

• Do nothing. Just keep bushing of R&P and frt diff dry, and keep adding oil.
• Flush engine oil with 2 cans EPR (cleans the seal, in prep for AT-205), Then add ~7 qt Mobil 1 5W-30 + OEM oil filter with 10 oz of AT-205. Make sure all vacuum lines in good condition. Install a new PCV valve (also PCV grommet 98-02). Drive and see leak stops or is manageable. Note: Never use High Mileage (HM) oil, unless plan on using for life of engine. HM oil, has a seal modifier and will damage seals.
• Replace oil pump O-ring.

 

[Moparsncruisers]

I easily do 2-3 4.7 timing belts a month, for years...have never put sealant on the tensioner bolt and always replace the crank and cam(unless VVT-i) seals and have yet to have one come back leaking oil....say what you want. The crank snouts can get a little surface rust from time to time, I give a quick rub with some Emory cloth and a film of assembly lube....good to go! Never fipig!

 

[LCHMOOM]

Oil Pump Leaking - Post TB Service?

Hey all, 2001 LC100 with 300,000 miles. Had a small oil leak before TB/WP service. Maybe a dime sized spot after sitting for a few days. Had a local Toyota Shop do the TB/WP and had them replace the cam and crank seals while they were in there. Since that TB/WP service (April), the oil leak...

forum.ih8mud.com

After removing the lower timing cover, I can basically confirm the leak is from the top of the oil pump

 

[LCHMOOM]

Yes, t-belt No. 1 pulley tensioner bolt threads. They (threads) will leak if not sealed.

Personally, I do not replace cam or crank seals, unless weeping. The only ones I have replaced, where because replaced improperly or aftermarket seals before I serviced. I've done 100 series T-belt service on as much as 380K miles and as old as 25 year old. Still had factory seals, that were not leaking.

Many shops, make procedural errors', doing T-belt and most services on the 100 series.
Here's what the Factory Service Manual recommends on No. 1 pulley bolt threads.
"Precoated parts" means sealants on threads. (note: Newer years FSM, also recommend sealant on N0. 2 pulley (idler) bolt threads.
View attachment 3779034

@jerryb posted a link, to the likely leak. If not higher up, like head covers, cam seals. Or lower like the tensioner bolt threads or crank seal. Which is Oil Pump O-ring is at top of oil pump. This should be apparent leak now, and would've likely been during the T-belt service.

If Oil Pump O-ring the leak, you've 3 choices:

• Do nothing. Just keep bushing of R&P and frt diff dry, and keep adding oil.
• Flush engine oil with 2 cans EPR (cleans the seal, in prep for AT-205), Then add ~7 qt Mobil 1 5W-30 + OEM oil filter with 10 oz of AT-205. Make sure all vacuum lines in good condition. Install a new PCV valve (also PCV grommet 98-02). Drive and see leak stops or is manageable. Note: Never use High Mileage (HM) oil, unless plan on using for life of engine. HM oil, has a seal modifier and will damage seals.
• Replace oil pump O-ring.

Yes, t-belt No. 1 pulley tensioner bolt threads. They (threads) will leak if not sealed.

Personally, I do not replace cam or crank seals, unless weeping. The only ones I have replaced, where because replaced improperly or aftermarket seals before I serviced. I've done 100 series T-belt service on as much as 380K miles and as old as 25 year old. Still had factory seals, that were not leaking.

Many shops, make procedural errors', doing T-belt and most services on the 100 series.
Here's what the Factory Service Manual recommends on No. 1 pulley bolt threads.
"Precoated parts" means sealants on threads. (note: Newer years FSM, also recommend sealant on N0. 2 pulley (idler) bolt threads.
View attachment 3779034

@jerryb posted a link, to the likely leak. If not higher up, like head covers, cam seals. Or lower like the tensioner bolt threads or crank seal. Which is Oil Pump O-ring is at top of oil pump. This should be apparent leak now, and would've likely been during the T-belt service.

If Oil Pump O-ring the leak, you've 3 choices:

• Do nothing. Just keep bushing of R&P and frt diff dry, and keep adding oil.
• Flush engine oil with 2 cans EPR (cleans the seal, in prep for AT-205), Then add ~7 qt Mobil 1 5W-30 + OEM oil filter with 10 oz of AT-205. Make sure all vacuum lines in good condition. Install a new PCV valve (also PCV grommet 98-02). Drive and see leak stops or is manageable. Note: Never use High Mileage (HM) oil, unless plan on using for life of engine. HM oil, has a seal modifier and will damage seals.
• Replace oil pump O-ring.

When I got the car, I wasn’t sure what the previous owner used, so I went with HM oil just to be safe. If there’s no harm in keeping it, I can probably stick with it.

1-10 How would you rate the difficulty of replacing the oil pump without removing the engine, assuming replacing the timing belt is a 3? I have a mechanic friend who can help me with the job—it’ll only cost me a few beers and a couple of pizzas

 

[jerryb]

I would easily believe most 100s have this leak at high miles and hot southern weather. Especially if the oil pressure gauge sits at the quarter mark.