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Yes it’s for front and rear.
Yes it’s for front and rear.
How do I get my 01 LX470 back to stock height? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter fanboy
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- lx470 old man emu
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It doesn't sound like from your skill level that repairing your AHC isnt the easy road. For one, you're missing all of your AHC shocks, and who else knows what's else is gone. The system was opened, and based on how cruddy and absolutely filthy that undercarriage is, the lines have crud in it.
All the parts are already in there for it to be AHC deleted. You just need to make sure you have LC springs, not LX, and a torsion bar that isn't from an LX.
My guess is that you have OME2865 springs in the rear and you're still on stock LX torsion bar
All the parts are already in there for it to be AHC deleted. You just need to make sure you have LC springs, not LX, and a torsion bar that isn't from an LX.
My guess is that you have OME2865 springs in the rear and you're still on stock LX torsion bar
- Thread starter
- #23
Many thanks. So what's my initial shopping list -- LC front torsion bars like so Amazon product ASIN B003CEW4J6 and that should raise the front enough to be even? Stick with the existing springs and shocks for now?
I assume swapping the torsion bar is documented on the forum here.
Yeah, my level of mechanical knowledge is low. I'm friendly with some mechanics, but mechanics out where I live don't know anything about "complicated" things -- if a car moves down the road, it's good enough for them. So usually I supply the YouTube tutorials and they do the actual wrenching for me.
Subjectively, the truck's ride seems fine. I don't notice the forward tilt when inside, but it looks ridiculous from outside. I used to see this very truck before it was listed for sale and think how ridiculous that raised rear looks. Won't be doing any real offroading, just tons of muddy dirt paths and hills.
Yup, the car had zero maintenance, which is pretty usual here. We've already done the small stuff like replacing nonworking window and lock motors, changing ATF, diff and transfer case fluid, replacing burned out bulbs. Even the horn was disconnected, because apparently there was an attempted aftermarket alarm install that kept triggering the horn. Fixed now. I also managed to add two spare master keys so I no longer have to worry about the wobbly one master key from the previous owner.
Next up, engine work, with a moonlighting Toyota dealership mechanic: timing belt, coolant pump, starter, front and rear seals, valve cover gaskets. It has 160K miles and has never had a timing belt change and last oil change more than five years ago (previous owner had it for five years and can't remember ever doing an oil change). Old oil actually doesn' tlook too terrible and engine seems to run fine. Techstream didn't find any engine codes and no CEL lit. Pretty amazing machines to take that kind of treatment.
Thank you again. Will have photos for your enjoyment as the truck progresses to being daily drivable. Right now I'm not driving it because of the potential timing belt time bomb.
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atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
I'm thinking folks didn't look at the pics very closely. Your AHC has been deleted, you do not have AHC to repair. Going back to AHC once deleted is generally unreasonably expensive. And there is surely a reason they deleted it (dying globs, dead pump, leaking lines). All you really need to do is buy OEM Land Cruiser rear coils and adjust the torsion bars so the front ride height is to you liking.
It is alos possible that your torsion bars are the AHC variety which have a much lower spring rate. If it was me I would just buy an ironman nitro gas suspension kit, throw in the new T bars, coils, and shocks, and call it good.
ironman4x4america.com
It is alos possible that your torsion bars are the AHC variety which have a much lower spring rate. If it was me I would just buy an ironman nitro gas suspension kit, throw in the new T bars, coils, and shocks, and call it good.
Nitro Gas 2" Suspension Lift Kit Suited for Toyota 100 Series Land Cruiser/Lexus LX470 - Stage 1
Ironman 4x4 America offers off-road parts, accessories, and equipment for the off-roading enthusiast. Check out our website for more information.
ironman4x4america.com
- Thread starter
- #25
I'm guessing the rear has the old man emu springs. Just a guess based on slightly lifted height.
In the front should we start off with replacing just the torsion bars? Really my only complaint is the uneven front-rear stance so if the new torsion bar can lift it a bit higher, maybe that will do it?
Mechanic suggests just adjusting the current torsion bar but I think that will degrade ride quality?
Thank you again.
In the front should we start off with replacing just the torsion bars? Really my only complaint is the uneven front-rear stance so if the new torsion bar can lift it a bit higher, maybe that will do it?
Mechanic suggests just adjusting the current torsion bar but I think that will degrade ride quality?
Thank you again.
atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
Adjusting the torsion bars will not affect ride quality. It just rotates the neutral position of the bar.
- Thread starter
- #27
Torsion bars on it are 4816260040. I know those are the AHC torsion bars, not strong enough for non-AHC use. So time to get some preferably LC torsion bars.
@atnolan94 Thanks, I meant degrade the ride quality as opposed to getting the correct non-AHC torsion bar.
@atnolan94 Thanks, I meant degrade the ride quality as opposed to getting the correct non-AHC torsion bar.
You can't raise the front much from the factory position before you introduce a few other things you *should* address. IE Diff drop, Aftermarket adjustable UCAs, etc... IMO, you can only raise the front about an inch before you significantly affect other items.
If you don't need the lift in the rear, I'd go out of my way to revert that to factory LC height (OEM LC coils should be easy to find very cheap, or OME offers some 1-1.5" lift rear coils that might be a good fit for you). Unless you want to take the plunge into modifying the front to match that rear height is not doing you any favors.
Also, I'd avoid the OME torsion bars unless you have added weight out front (bumper and a winch, for instance). I think those OME T-bars are all significantly higher spring rate than the LC bars.
*oh, also, I've got a nifty key fix for that floppy master key if you ever want to fix that.
YMD1 - Titanium Reinforced Toyota / Lexus Key Kit
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- Thread starter
- #29
Thanks for offering the key fix. I just got totally new keys from 1010keys and programmed them with Techstream.
I wonder what kind of springs I have in the back. Here's a photo of a rear spring; I don't know if you can identify from that whether it's raised or not. Anyway, the rear end is way up high (see photos at start of thread), so I must have lifted springs?
If you sell springs or torsion bars, send me a PM and if the price is decent I'll buy from you.
I wonder what kind of springs I have in the back. Here's a photo of a rear spring; I don't know if you can identify from that whether it's raised or not. Anyway, the rear end is way up high (see photos at start of thread), so I must have lifted springs?
If you sell springs or torsion bars, send me a PM and if the price is decent I'll buy from you.
atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
Oh good info, Yes I agree! AHC bars need to go. My suggestion is Toyota OEM, aftermarket bars spring rates are pretty high for a stock truck.
on the coils, honestly I am not sure which they are. They do not look like old man emu or any of the other aftermarket performance options. May be something generic. I would suggest trying to source the OEM Toyota coils that came on the non AHC 100.
- Thread starter
- #31
Thanks. I haven't been able to find the Toyota coils, but I'll keep looking. I can easily buy Old Man Emu coils, but I don't want the lift; I wish OME had stock height coils.
There's an Ebay seller out of Australia selling stock height coils, but with abominable reviews.
There's an Ebay seller out of Australia selling stock height coils, but with abominable reviews.
- Thread starter
- #32
All good now, normal height front and rear, thanks to OEM Land Cruiser springs in the back and OEM Land Cruiser shocks all around.
Still using LX470 torsion bars in the front, but that will change once the LC torsion bars arrive from a very generous forum member.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Still using LX470 torsion bars in the front, but that will change once the LC torsion bars arrive from a very generous forum member.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Now let's see what it looks like.
- Thread starter
- #35
Hey, we are back to stock height, and this truck is awesome! It now has stock Toyota springs and shocks, and also a ton of replaced suspension parts: ball joints, links, bushings, front and rear. Also new drive shaft joints. Among a ton of other stuff.
Subjectively speaking, it feels a lot faster. That sounds credible to me; there was probably a lot of deadweight loss in all the weird angles involved in the rear being up like that.
Quickie photo below taken while waiting for my mom to come for a first ride in it. Thanks to all who helped this absolute novice. (Yeah, I also need to get that fake GPS shark fin removed from the roof. I guess it's the 21st century equivalent of the fake cellphone spiral antennas back in the day.)
Subjectively speaking, it feels a lot faster. That sounds credible to me; there was probably a lot of deadweight loss in all the weird angles involved in the rear being up like that.
Quickie photo below taken while waiting for my mom to come for a first ride in it. Thanks to all who helped this absolute novice. (Yeah, I also need to get that fake GPS shark fin removed from the roof. I guess it's the 21st century equivalent of the fake cellphone spiral antennas back in the day.)
