Hopeful Romantic (1 Viewer)

[atlaslabs]

A lot of "Toyota" parts may go by the 10/71 build date, even though it is really a 72 model year. Keep in mind your 40 has been modified and it might have a lot of different yrs of parts to assemble it. Does it have disc brakes? 3 or 4 speed? Power steering. Can we see more pics?

It’s been LS swapped for a tbi350 paired with a Muncie SM465 4 speed tranny.

It’s got a roll bar that I don’t believe is stock, so I may end up swapped that to add the option of shakil set harnesses. It’s still drum brakes that I’m planning on swapping out eventually for power disc brakes.

I’ll take a bunch of pics and get them posted tomorrow

 

[atlaslabs]

Here are some pictures.

Towed it home Saturday because it needs a new clutch slave cylinder. Needs new leafs (and probably shocks) paint will probably get done this winter when things cool down in AZ. And going to replace the seats with a bucket/console combo.

Other than those few things, I’m very happy with it. I need to go through it with a fine tooth comb so that I can replace an missing bolts/rubber/ soft parts.

I do have the rear window and the jump seats, we just didn’t install them for transport on Saturday.

 

[atlaslabs]

More pictures

 

[bhsdriller]

Looks good

Hopefully there isn't a lot more on it like that fender

 

[atlaslabs]

Looks good

Hopefully there isn't a lot more on it like that fender

That's definitely the worst part. The paint is getting redone anyways since this one looks like it was done by a toddler during arts and crafts time. The question is: Do I redo the same color and keep it matching with the tacoma, or do I take this as an opportunity to do something different with it?

 

[tls3601]

That's definitely the worst part. The paint is getting redone anyways since this one looks like it was done by a toddler during arts and crafts time. The question is: Do I redo the same color and keep it matching with the tacoma, or do I take this as an opportunity to do something different with it?

Nice find. I am in Surprise. These things are addictive. I am a bit of a purist so I say original color. Single stage or base with clear? Tom

 

[atlaslabs]

Nice find. I am in Surprise. These things are addictive. I am a bit of a purist so I say original color. Single stage or base with clear? Tom

I still have to do a little research to figure out which one. Any opinions in which would be the better route to go?

 

[tls3601]

I still have to do a little research to figure out which one. Any opinions in which would be the better route to go?

Depends on how important originality is to you. Single stage is what these trucks came with back in the day. Base and clear May be more durable depending on how you plan to use it.

 

[70fj40]

To me single stage will have a much more original look as it ages so in my mind has a more vintage look in the end.

 

[atlaslabs]

Depends on how important originality is to you. Single stage is what these trucks came with back in the day. Base and clear May be more durable depending on how you plan to use it.

To me single stage will have a much more original look as it ages so in my mind has a more vintage look in the end.

It’ll mostly be a garaged pavement princess pulled out for coffee runs, and the like. I’ve got my Tacoma for offroading and camping.

 

[atlaslabs]

So after getting the clutch slave cylinder replaced, it’s now up and running great!

However, I’ve got way too much play in the steering wheel. I adjusted the steering box as much as I could but there’s still tons of play in there. I also noticed the steering box is leaking, so I figured why not take the time to throw some power steering into it. I’ll be going the Saginaw route.

While I’m at it, I’m going to attack the entire steering system. I’ll be replacing all of the TREs and inspecting everything along the way.

 

[atlaslabs]

Now comes multiple questions regarding my steering column:

I currently have a stock steering column with a GM adapter that the PO installed. Obviously the turn signal selectors don’t self cancel, but they currently take the strength of 7 large Russians to move. Is this something g that can be fixed, or should I just pick up an new turn signal selector?

I would also love to have an OEM steering wheel instead of the one that is currently on there. With it being a 10/71 the wheels are $500-1000 minimum if you can find them. What components wouldn’t work if I swapped in a 73+ steering wheel and are there anyways around the incompatibility?

 

[B y r o n]

Now comes multiple questions regarding my steering column:

I currently have a stock steering column with a GM adapter that the PO installed. Obviously the turn signal selectors don’t self cancel, but they currently take the strength of 7 large Russians to move. Is this something g that can be fixed, or should I just pick up an new turn signal selector?

I would also love to have an OEM steering wheel instead of the one that is currently on there. With it being a 10/71 the wheels are $500-1000 minimum if you can find them. What components wouldn’t work if I swapped in a 73+ steering wheel and are there anyways around the incompatibility?

Based on your picture in post #43, it looks like you have a Grant steering wheel and adapter. You probably need to pull the wheel and lube the turn signal parts. There should be a pin sticking down from the bottom of the steering wheel adapter that works the self cancelling feature.

 

[firemanj92]

Now comes multiple questions regarding my steering column:

I currently have a stock steering column with a GM adapter that the PO installed. Obviously the turn signal selectors don’t self cancel, but they currently take the strength of 7 large Russians to move. Is this something g that can be fixed, or should I just pick up an new turn signal selector?

I would also love to have an OEM steering wheel instead of the one that is currently on there. With it being a 10/71 the wheels are $500-1000 minimum if you can find them. What components wouldn’t work if I swapped in a 73+ steering wheel and are there anyways around the incompatibility?

Man, I just had one for sale too in the classifieds

 

[atlaslabs]

Based on your picture in post #43, it looks like you have a Grant steering wheel and adapter. You probably need to pull the wheel and lube the turn signal parts. There should be a pin sticking down from the bottom of the steering wheel adapter that works the self cancelling feature.

Yep! That’s exactly what’s in there, but it may be missing the pin for self cancelling. I gave it some WD40 and that fixed it right up! I still may replace it eventually since the lever itself is sheered off about 5 inches up lol

 

[atlaslabs]

Man, I just had one for sale too in the classifieds

Darn! How much did it go for? Just so I have an idea of how much to keep stashed to the side

 

[firemanj92]

Darn! How much did it go for? Just so I have an idea of how much to keep stashed to the side

I'll pm you.

 

[firemanj92]

Also, I would pull the cancelling pin, it has a tendency to lock up wheel mid turn and can be quite dangerous/scary.

 

[atlaslabs]

Also, I would pull the cancelling pin, it has a tendency to lock up wheel mid turn and can be quite dangerous/scary.

I don’t think mine has it anymore. Maybe the PO was smart and did that

 

[65swb45]

So after getting the clutch slave cylinder replaced, it’s now up and running great!

However, I’ve got way too much play in the steering wheel. I adjusted the steering box as much as I could but there’s still tons of play in there. I also noticed the steering box is leaking, so I figured why not take the time to throw some power steering into it. I’ll be going the Saginaw route.

While I’m at it, I’m going to attack the entire steering system. I’ll be replacing all of the TREs and inspecting everything along the way.

You adjusted nothing. The 1972 and older steering boxes need to be disassembled in order to be adjusted.

The inside of the box is filled with steel shims that fill in the space between the sector shaft and the housing, completely. The ‘adjuster’ is ONLY used to reset the preload AFTER shims are removed to improve contact between the worm gear and the sector.

A primitive design compared to modern standards, which is not aided by the fact there are no more parts to rebuild them.