Francis K
SILVER Star
You got a link for this bad boy? Did you cut it to fit?
It's not this guy is it...?
Amazon product ASIN B00069QLVC
Hood insulation, do i need it?
- Thread starter rc51kid
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You got a link for this bad boy? Did you cut it to fit?
It's not this guy is it...?
Amazon product ASIN B00069QLVC
It was this one: Amazon product ASIN B00069QLVC
Ironically, I just took this off a week ago. The foam layer under the foil on the Dynamat is not closed cell and it soaks up water like crazy. It also does nothing for sound.
I found a decent price at a local dealer (Steven's Creek Toyota, for those in the bay area) that I was able to pick up and save on shipping. Clipped it right up in a few minutes. Done and done.
Francis K
SILVER Star
Yep, sure did. Part # 5334160100
Francis K
SILVER Star
It was about $160 IIRC. Amayama has it for about $70 + $40 shipping, which is still a deal. But last I tried they were not able to ship right now.
Francis K
SILVER Star
Not bad at all, thank you!
if you still have the original clips, get 12 of these 9046709014 -- you will break the old ones pulling them off.
Francis K
SILVER Star
Oh boy....I had already picked up these guys. Always a mess!
20pcs Fit Toyota 9046709004,904670900401 Hood Insulation Retainer | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 20pcs Fit Toyota 9046709004,904670900401 Hood Insulation Retainer at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
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Bump here. I’ve ordered two from dealerships semi-local to me. Both have cancelled. Any hot tips on where to score one of these without breaking the bank?
I bought hood insulation from Summit Racing back in 2019. Metro Supersoft HI3, p/n MMP-HI3. Currently $90.99.
It noticeably reduced engine noise, not that it was at all intrusive before. It's significantly thicker than the factory liner. On a frosty cold day, the middle of my hood will still be frosty/icy after a ~5 mile drive across town.
When you cut it, make it a bit oversized. Maybe 1/4" or 3/8" in each direction. It's not custom molded like the factory liner, so if you lay the factory liner on it and cut it out exactly, you'll end up a tiny bit short on a few holes once it's mounted. I have a couple of holes that tore out because I didn't cut it oversized. No big deal, since the Toyota plastic clips are so large diameter.
Regarding paint, I ran without a hood liner for about two years after repainting the vehicle with PPG Shop Line (their cheap stuff) single stage. The paint was undamaged. I've heard of hood paint discoloring from heat, but it was a Rustoleum job. I would probably be concerned if I lived in Los Angeles or Phoenix, but I think the risk of paint damage from engine heat is overstated. 25 years of UV is probably what killed your hood paint.
It noticeably reduced engine noise, not that it was at all intrusive before. It's significantly thicker than the factory liner. On a frosty cold day, the middle of my hood will still be frosty/icy after a ~5 mile drive across town.
When you cut it, make it a bit oversized. Maybe 1/4" or 3/8" in each direction. It's not custom molded like the factory liner, so if you lay the factory liner on it and cut it out exactly, you'll end up a tiny bit short on a few holes once it's mounted. I have a couple of holes that tore out because I didn't cut it oversized. No big deal, since the Toyota plastic clips are so large diameter.
Regarding paint, I ran without a hood liner for about two years after repainting the vehicle with PPG Shop Line (their cheap stuff) single stage. The paint was undamaged. I've heard of hood paint discoloring from heat, but it was a Rustoleum job. I would probably be concerned if I lived in Los Angeles or Phoenix, but I think the risk of paint damage from engine heat is overstated. 25 years of UV is probably what killed your hood paint.
Whats the method for reconnecting hood frame to the sheet metal?
The center of my hood flexes and pops :/
This insulation was only $35. Cut to fit. Havent installed yet, dont know about its water-absorbing properties! Want to re-attatch center of hood to frame first...
The center of my hood flexes and pops :/
5mm Car Hood Engine Heat Mat Sound-Absorbing Pad Shield Noise Insulation 1mx1.4m | eBay
Car Engine Heat Mat Sound-Absorbing Pad Shield Noise Insulation Hood 5mm 1 1.4m. High noise reduction & thermal insulation properties. PE with aluminum and self-adhesive Covered with Alumium Shield. Covered with Alumium Shield.
www.ebay.com
This insulation was only $35. Cut to fit. Havent installed yet, dont know about its water-absorbing properties! Want to re-attatch center of hood to frame first...
Last edited:
FMC80
SILVER Star
About 6 weeks ago, I bought two from Johnson City Toyota in TN, which is local to me. They took a week to come in. Do you know why your dealer is canceling?
I have something like the uxcell hood heat/sound insulation,
My preference is for shiny surfaces to support lighting for under hood maintenance. It would be nice if it was made out of some non combustible like rock wool or kevlar, but all that stuff does hold moisture. I do have the high temp textile wrap (kevlar?) on some of the exhaust, and on top of that is the aluminum foil tape to essentially seal it. No issues with rust but it is stainless exhaust, and it does help keep engine compartment temps down. Which isn't really a benefit with the weather in Calgary today (-40's)
My preference is for shiny surfaces to support lighting for under hood maintenance. It would be nice if it was made out of some non combustible like rock wool or kevlar, but all that stuff does hold moisture. I do have the high temp textile wrap (kevlar?) on some of the exhaust, and on top of that is the aluminum foil tape to essentially seal it. No issues with rust but it is stainless exhaust, and it does help keep engine compartment temps down. Which isn't really a benefit with the weather in Calgary today (-40's)
Body panel adhesive from your local auto body & paint supply shop. I think that I used Fusor 803DTM:
Fusor® 800DTM/801DTM/803DTM Direct-to-Metal Sealer
800DTM, 803DTM, Fusor sealer/adhesive, direct to metal sealer, direct to metal adhesive, direct-to-metal, UV resistant, Fusor 800DTM sealer/adhesive, Fusor 803DTM, sealer/adhesive, 800, 803
www.lord.com
To make sure that there wasn't a gap while the adhesive cured, I stacked some 2x4s on top of the engine so that they'd press against the reinforcing ribs on the hood.
Adding this to my memory bank. I use multiple Fusor products everyday at work. All hail LORD FUSOR
i use sika flex, it closely resembles seam sealer but will span the gap that is surely there after 20 or 30 yearsWhats the method for reconnecting hood frame to the sheet metal?
The center of my hood flexes and pops :/
5mm Car Hood Engine Heat Mat Sound-Absorbing Pad Shield Noise Insulation 1mx1.4m | eBay
Car Engine Heat Mat Sound-Absorbing Pad Shield Noise Insulation Hood 5mm 1 1.4m. High noise reduction & thermal insulation properties. PE with aluminum and self-adhesive Covered with Alumium Shield. Covered with Alumium Shield.www.ebay.com
This insulation was only $35. Cut to fit. Havent installed yet, dont know about its water-absorbing properties! Want to re-attatch center of hood to frame first...
you can get it in black or a few different grey colors, works good
use the adhesive and make sure to close the hood so it doesnt dry while on the hood prop and therby cure crooked...Body panel adhesive from your local auto body & paint supply shop. I think that I used Fusor 803DTM:
Fusor® 800DTM/801DTM/803DTM Direct-to-Metal Sealer
800DTM, 803DTM, Fusor sealer/adhesive, direct to metal sealer, direct to metal adhesive, direct-to-metal, UV resistant, Fusor 800DTM sealer/adhesive, Fusor 803DTM, sealer/adhesive, 800, 803
To make sure that there wasn't a gap while the adhesive cured, I stacked some 2x4s on top of the engine so that they'd press against the reinforcing ribs on the hood.
i would be careful about trying to 'press' the frame to the sheet metal as it could show up as distortions in the visable hood surface
I tend to assume that the gap is there from years of heat cycles and should be left as is to ensure a flat hood, some may have different experience though
It won't. Just don't be dumb about it. Don't load a bunch of weight on the hood, you just want to make sure the ribs are where they should be.
The steel isn't shrinking from engine heat. There shouldn't be any significant gaps.
my theory is that the top skin is affected by the sun over the years 'bowing' it slightly away from the ribs underneath (expansion)
i could be wrong, i often am
