Love the setup. Would you share the name of the hold down point system you’re using in the cargo area? I’ve seen these, but I don’t know what to call them.
Builds Homer's 2003 GX470 Build 8.2 4.56 2.5 34s (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter HomersCanyonero
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- #602
It’s called an L-track system for logistics or airline tracks
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- #603
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- #604
Well…the build to do the trifecta in Moab continues…this winch seems to fit my front bumper perfectly!
Comparison chart updated and moved to a subsequent post.
overlandvehiclesystems.com
Comparison chart updated and moved to a subsequent post.
SCAR 10S - 10,000 lbs. Rated Synthetic Rope Winch
Featuring the SCAR 10S - 10,000 lbs. Rated Synthetic Rope Recovery Winch - the ultimate solution for all your recovery needs.
overlandvehiclesystems.com
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Aside from overall dimensions, why this winch? I can't find a lot of info on it.
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- #606
OVS is a company that specializes in offroad gear. They sell popular items like 270* awnings, RTTs, storage solutions, and recovery gear. OVS has a reputation for good quality and durable gear.
I was able to find information on YouTube and Google on this OVS SCAR 10S winch and compare it to some popular premium and not so premium brands.
If you look at my comparison chart, you will see that this winch compares well in terms of line speed, HP, rope length, torque, water/dust proofing with an IP68 rating, and price. In fact, my comparison chart filtered out winches that didn’t meet my needs like: IP68, greater than 5.5 HP winch motor, synthetic rope, less than 70 lbs, and both wired/wireless controller capability. So, I only included winches that met the criteria I was looking in a winch.
The end hook and overall look also played a role. Some of the lower priced winches under $400 looked kinda cheap on photos and only had a 1-year warranty.
The dimensions also played a role since the manufacturer of my front bumper states that this dimension fits my tube bumper well.
So, overall the OVS SCAR 10S seemed like a good value. It’s not the cheapest and it’s not the most expensive, but it had a good warranty and specs.
I updated my comparison chart here to update my findings. There’s a formula to calculate torque using the HP and gear ratio and I added this formula to my chart.
Finally, I was also asking Copilot (ChatGPT) for information and comparisons as well as dial a friend in terms of a final decision.
Anyways, more than you wanted to hear, but analysis paralysis is my game! Lol
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All good. I'm a fan of analysis paralysis. More information is worlds better than none.
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- #608
Well…I got the winch delivered to me and I weighted the OVS Scar 10s while packaged in the box and my home scale says 63.2 lbs.
I’m assuming the box, foam, and other packaging material weighs about 2.2 lbs so I updated the weight of the winch to 61 lbs on my chart.
I won’t be installing it for another month or so, but glad it’s lower weight than the 64 lbs the OVS claims in their product info. Or maybe their product info includes packaging in their weight info.
Pretty light winch! Will be curious how it goes up. I'll probably go with the Badlands as I'm an Inside Track Club member and can get it for <$500 on sale, but reducing weight on the front of the rig is always a good idea.
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- #610
I wish HF would make a 10k lbs badlands apex with synthetic rope and smaller footprint/weight. Badlands Apex looks solid and love going into the store and looking at their winch accessories
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- #611
I’m going to document my agm battery upgrade and the other mods required to support the upgrade.
Since I got a winch, I need to upgrade to a Costco Interstate AGM H7 (94R) battery. At my local
Costco, it’s $180 plus tax minus a $15 core discount for your old battery.
Since I got a winch, I need to upgrade to a Costco Interstate AGM H7 (94R) battery. At my local
Costco, it’s $180 plus tax minus a $15 core discount for your old battery.
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- #612
Now a AGM battery requires that the alternator produce between 14.4 and 14.8 volts to be able to keep the battery topped off.
If the alternator can’t do this, then the battery might not last as long.
So, my 2018 Denso 130a alternator produces around 14.2v in the morning on start or 13.6v while driving around.
There’s a few ways to get more voltage. I’m not an expert but here’s a couple ways:
1. Get an alternator shop to upgrade the factory or denso alternator to produce 14.6v or so
2. Add a voltage booster. You can make your own or buy one from eBay or any other shop that sells these things
Here’s one…
If the alternator can’t do this, then the battery might not last as long.
So, my 2018 Denso 130a alternator produces around 14.2v in the morning on start or 13.6v while driving around.
There’s a few ways to get more voltage. I’m not an expert but here’s a couple ways:
1. Get an alternator shop to upgrade the factory or denso alternator to produce 14.6v or so
2. Add a voltage booster. You can make your own or buy one from eBay or any other shop that sells these things
Here’s one…
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- Thread starter
- #613
There’s also some simple voltage boosters on ebay
This is the first time I'm hearing about voltage boosters. I bought my truck in 2020 with an AGM battery already installed. According to the manufacturing date, that battery lasted 8 years with no mods to keep it topped off. Naturally, I bought another one this past winter. No issues with charging.
From what Red said, I would probably steer clear due to the chance of frying some electronics and just monitor your voltage.
From what Red said, I would probably steer clear due to the chance of frying some electronics and just monitor your voltage.
I know someone else who ended up with fried electronics. They removed and AGM is still fine
I think it might have also contributed to the early death of my Phoenix PX6, which was a $700 mistake. The OEM electronics seem to be able to handle the voltage boost, it's the aftermarket stuff that seems to have issues. But, I can't help but wonder what kind of long-term problems it could cause for ECUs and CANBUS components that are approaching drinking age for some of these rigs.
I haven't put the battery health monitor on my AGM recently but it sure seems fine.
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- #618
Oh no…my research seemed to indicate that the alternator on the GX470 could generate 13.6V to 14.8V as the acceptable range of voltage.
I did notice that in the morning after the GX470 has been parked overnight…my cigarette lighter usb plug and voltmeter reads 14.2V, but after the car warms up and I drive around it goes back down to 13.6V. So, it fluctuates.
I suppose the only question is what are these voltage boosters doing?
My research indicates that the voltage boosters trick the alternator sensing circuit to think the battery is at a lower voltage than it is (diode does this), this causes the alternator to send extra 0.5 volts (in low boost mode or maybe 1v if set to high boost) to the battery.
Now this increase in voltage could potentially get you over the 15v if the alternator is already producing say 14.8v.
Now, what kind of voltage boosters were you using? @Rednexus
There’s voltage boosters that come with a 7.5A fuse and some that don’t. I plan to use (maybe not anymore) a voltage boosters that retains the 7.5A fuse.
But thanks for the info. I’m starting to worry about the voltage booster…maybe I’ll skip it.
And I read somewhere that if you get an ECU tune, you can ask the tuner to configure the ECU to ask the alternator to boost the voltage…hmmmm
I did notice that in the morning after the GX470 has been parked overnight…my cigarette lighter usb plug and voltmeter reads 14.2V, but after the car warms up and I drive around it goes back down to 13.6V. So, it fluctuates.
I suppose the only question is what are these voltage boosters doing?
My research indicates that the voltage boosters trick the alternator sensing circuit to think the battery is at a lower voltage than it is (diode does this), this causes the alternator to send extra 0.5 volts (in low boost mode or maybe 1v if set to high boost) to the battery.
Now this increase in voltage could potentially get you over the 15v if the alternator is already producing say 14.8v.
Now, what kind of voltage boosters were you using? @Rednexus
There’s voltage boosters that come with a 7.5A fuse and some that don’t. I plan to use (maybe not anymore) a voltage boosters that retains the 7.5A fuse.
But thanks for the info. I’m starting to worry about the voltage booster…maybe I’ll skip it.
And I read somewhere that if you get an ECU tune, you can ask the tuner to configure the ECU to ask the alternator to boost the voltage…hmmmm
I was using the cheapo diode version that is inserted into the fuse box; probably the same eBay version you posted. It was running around 14.7 volts all of the time. Without the booster, my rig runs about 14.2 volts after startup and drops down to 13.4 volts or so once the battery is charged up. So, it was giving me a full volt over normal battery voltage.
IMO the booster are a solution looking for a problem
. Lots of folks run the AGMs without them. BUT, when I find my battery tester I'll put it on the GX and see what the state of charge/state of health is.
IMO the booster are a solution looking for a problem
. Lots of folks run the AGMs without them. BUT, when I find my battery tester I'll put it on the GX and see what the state of charge/state of health is.
- Thread starter
- #620
My next project arrived today…APEX bolt-on spindle gussets
