I had to use a MINI fuse extension cable to fit the ARCLIGHTLED voltage booster that’s for a 5th gen 4R. The orientation of this voltage booster doesn’t fit into the 2003 GX470 fuse box.
On startup in the morning, I now get 14.7V and after the alternator warms up…it drops to 14.2V
That should be within the operating electrical range of the GX470
My ODB2 scanner says the ODB scanner is getting 13.4V to 13.6V…at the same time my cigarette lighter usb voltmeter says 14.4V to 14.6V
I’ve been checking my voltage on startup after being parked overnight and this is what I’m seeing
Today I started up the GX470 and used the cheapie voltmeter from HF at the battery. It’s reading 15.1V at the battery on startup and goes down after the alternator warms up and drops to about 14.4V or lower (probably ends up at 14V after 20 minutes of driving)
The two cigarette lighters have two different usb voltmeter plugs which read different volts at the same time that the battery reads 15.1V.
One usb voltmeter plug reads 14.7V and this one tends to be approx. 0.5V off consistently.
The other usb voltmeter plug says its range has been maxed over 14.6V. This second usb volt meter tends to be consistently about 0.2V off. After 20 minutes it will read about 13.8V
Anyways, copilot says that these discrepancies are normal due to crappy usb voltmeter plugs and wiring distance from battery.
As long as the battery voltage at the battery starts at 15.1V for a few minutes on startup and then drops little by little to about 14.4V after 15 minutes or so…then all this is working within a safe voltage range.
The exterior side molle panels are from victory 4x4. I like these because they are smaller with a good suction cup and they fold up to allow the quarter panels to pop open. Not perfect but I can pop open the quarter window
The roof rack mounting brackets are from a company called Exigex. It’s their Universal Stock Roof Awning Brackets.
Finished installing my OVS SCAR 10S winch. The hardest part wasn’t the wiring…the hardest part was mounting the winch to my Restless bumper and reinstalling the bumper with winch on the bumper.
Moab is making me spend so much money on this rig.
Since I going to be installing 34.1” Mud Terrains that weight like 63 to 67 lbs…I figured I get the Hayden 678 transmission cooler to help in Moab
My research indicates that the Lexus GX470 (and those 120 platform vehicles that use the A750F transmission) has a built in thermal control valve that restricts flow to the transmission cooler when the temps are low.
Once the transmission fluid reaches operating temperature, then the built in thermal control valve opens and lets fluid go to the cooler.
Anyways, I’m trying to confirm all this, but I ordered the Goliath bracket and the Hayden 678.
A 678 should be fine in your climate. It's what I'm running. However it can really over-cool in the winter. Driving my rig on below-freezing days, sometimes the temp maxes out at like 120F, which is just too low for fuel economy and probably not good on the transmission either. I fixed that by cutting up a sheet of 1/8" rubber that blocks about 2/3 of the cooler during the winter. Since I'm pulling the rig apart in a few weeks to replace the radiator, I'm going to switch to a 698 with the built-in thermal bypass. I doubt you get many below-freezing days, so you may not have the problem that I did.
