Home-built rack - easy and rugged

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Jul 12, 2003
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Hi,

Thought I'd post some info and pics on a rack I built recently for my sis. I don't weld, so it had to be something I could make with "normal" tools. I borrowed a drill press for one step, but a large hand-drill (which can be rented) would work too.

The key to this design is the joint. Once you see how to make this, you'll have lots of options in terms of how many supports, how many cross-bars, length, etc. The joint relies on a recessed hex head cap screw. Once you see how the cap screw works with the square stock, your imagination can take over. Lots of things can be added to this design to make it suit your individual needs.

Materials
Metric socket cap screw + washers and nuts
Cross Pieces - 1" square stock - 50" in length (X's 5 in this case)
Side Pieces - 1 1/2" L stock - 2 @60" each in this case.
5" Wilderness Roof brackets from Spectre Off Road (3 pair for this rack)
http://www.sor.com/sor/partpict.tam...f Racks&descriptionpg.ctx=Page 256 Roof Racks

You can purchase the square stock cut to length. So the only real work is drilling and painting.
I found that the hole in the square stock should be 7/8" in from the end.
Note that the hole in the square stock will go all the way through, but the bottom hole is smaller. The top hole is just big enough to allow the head of the cap screw to fit through, but the bottom hole only allows the shaft of the screw to fit.
Not shown in the pics are drain holes in the bottom of the square cross pieces.
The L stock needs holes that correspond to the square stock holes. Measuring on the inside of the L stock, set them also at 7/8".
The holes in the L stock are only big enough to fit the shaft of the screw.

Time for some pics
2005 06 25 001.webp
2005 06 25 002.webp
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More pics
2005 06 25 005.webp
2005 06 25 006.webp
2005 06 25 007.webp
 
Interesting-looking design. Aside from cost, how much did that end up weighing, ballpark? And is it fairly twist-resistant? I remember my Garvin rack (which cost way more than that, and sold with my Heep!) was really good in that regard. Seriously stiff, even though it was all bolted together...
 
I'd like more info on cost, weight, and how much load that setup could carry?

Are the SOR roof brackets powdercoated? I live a block from the Ocean so I'd have to powdercoat everything anyway.
 
Cost est
$22 ea for the brackets (yes they are powder coated). I used 6, so $140 w/shipping.
Steel was about $45. (5 cross pieces, 2 side pieces)
Fastners were about $20.
Paint was about $10.
I also need a drill bit I didn't have (the cap on the screw was 1/2", so I purchased a 5/8 bit which was ~$20.

So, parts about $210.

I never weighed it, but would estimate weight at 70-80 lbs.
Keep in mind that the price is very dependant on the configuration. Number of brackets, number of crosspieces, etc.
When all bolted together, on the roof, it's really strong. I doesn't flex at all. That's partly why I used the shorter brackets - to minimize flex.
I have one on my 60 that's similar to the one above, but not as elegant in design. I've used it for lumber, carrying beds, plywood, etc. After over a year, it's still really rigid.
I don't know the weight rating, but SOR told me that the rain gutters could only handle 300 lbs. I'm positive that you could load the rack/brackets up a lot more than that.

Let me know if there are any other questions.
 
That's a great idea for a low profile rack..especially if you have a nice lift on the truck and low garage doors/ceilings...

One cheaper alternative for the roof rack brackets would be to use the Quik-N-Easy brackets...They run 4 brackets for $55...that's $13.75 each.

http://www.arkatents.com/qu.html
 
davegonz said:
That's a great idea for a low profile rack..especially if you have a nice lift on the truck and low garage doors/ceilings...

One cheaper alternative for the roof rack brackets would be to use the Quik-N-Easy brackets...They run 4 brackets for $55...that's $13.75 each.

http://www.arkatents.com/qu.html

Thanks for posting this link. I have the quik-n-easy brackets on my own rack, but opted to use the wilderness brackets on my sis's truck. To each their own of course, and I think either one would function the same...but lower profile is pretty important for an urban vehicle. With my lift and rack and larger tires, there are a lot of garages I can't get into. Even some ski areas have underground parking with height limited parking. So, low profile "can" be super important. The Wildnerness brackets are about 1 1/2" inches lower than the quick-n-easy. Same basic assembly method will work for either one however.
 
lovetoski said:
Thanks for posting this link. I have the quik-n-easy brackets on my own rack, but opted to use the wilderness brackets on my sis's truck. To each their own of course, and I think either one would function the same...but lower profile is pretty important for an urban vehicle. With my lift and rack and larger tires, there are a lot of garages I can't get into. Even some ski areas have underground parking with height limited parking. So, low profile "can" be super important. The Wildnerness brackets are about 1 1/2" inches lower than the quick-n-easy. Same basic assembly method will work for either one however.

Lovetoski can you post up some pictures of your rack using the quik-n-easy brackets to show the difference between the two racks?
 
This is AWESOME!

I have been thinking about a bolt together design for a while, too - I'm no welder - but basing it off of my existing Yakima tower and crossbar setup I have now. (I've just had too much stuff failing or breaking to really put much thought into it. :D )

First off, the whole exped roof racks that are out now are sooooo friggin' expensive. I mean really, $600 for something without a floor or the mounting brackets? (may be a slight exageration...but not by much) - And realistically, I don't need to spend that much on something I would only use for travel and a little wheeling. The rest of the time it would just be up there whaling in the wind...a project like this would leave money for the important stuff like lifts, tires, a bull bar or whatever. (Sad to say, I am not made of money and have two kids) - This is motivating! I'm going to start looking at mine all over again, and think about what I need.

Too cool!
 
Another option that comes to mind, how about modifying a bed frame to take the gutter mounts. All the steel is there, they are designed to handle mucho weight, and they are bolt together. Plus, you can get 'em for free and the local landfill/dump! 'course, use thread locking goo such that the vibrations won't shake it apart.
 
AWESOME THREAD!!!

I will be building a roof rack for my 80 soon and this was the only part that was puzzling me!

Thanks for starting this!

The more input and pics the better!
 
this is definitely the coolest rack i have ever seen! but i'm lovetoski's sis so the rack in question is on my rig and i might be a bit biased ;)
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
Lovetoski can you post up some pictures of your rack using the quik-n-easy brackets to show the difference between the two racks?

Sorry for the delay, I was in Germany this week on business. Here are some pics of my rack with the quick 'n easy brackets.

A few notes: If you look closely, you'lll notice that the joint is different. I wasn't quite as bright on the design on my rack as on the one for my sis. If you like the quik 'n easy brackets (they are cheaper!) then you could use the same joint design as I did on the first post. Depending on your height concerns, you could put the cross-bars on top, or on the bottom of the q 'n e brackets. One advantage of the quick 'n easy brackets is that they curve in further. I was able to use 48" cross pieces as a result - this might save a bit of coin over 50" cross-pieces.
2005 07 24 002.webp
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2005 07 24 007.webp
 
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