Holy fricken tamole..... A/C
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Will that remove any particulates that are in the hoses??? There has to be SOME crap in there I would guess....
I could try some compressed air but I do not know how robust the system is (considerign the PSI that AC units run at I would have to assume it would be fine but....)
I could try some compressed air but I do not know how robust the system is (considerign the PSI that AC units run at I would have to assume it would be fine but....)
Cheap
Should....the big killer for ac systems is moisture make sure you change the drier. After you put the system back together make sure you pressurize the system with nitrogen to insure no leaks before you vacuum and charge
It would amaze me if that thing actually worked that well lol
lol....yea me to.
I've heard they work well you just need ALOT of air. No problem for me!
My system needs a recharge and the compressor is making a loud knocking noise so I'll be doing some AC work shortly. I'm down to my last can of R12 from Mexico, so I'll probably be going with some sort of substitute of Ebay R12 at about $16/lb on average.Maybe we could have some sort of AC weekend, not sure how soon though, since I don't really want to drop $160 on a new compressor.
couple cans of brake cleaner and a good strong air hose and have at it. if you hurt it from the pressure your compressor makes then it sure as hell woulda blew it with freon.
dont worry you wont hurt it any.
Old thread, yes, but what kind of flush do you use on the system ?
My compressor has been open for over a year, but in a bag... Is it still good?
Go with 134a unless you are in a desert region...
I converted the fj60 to 134a due to cost reasons quite a few years ago. Original compressor, evaporator, condensor, valve, new drier/accumulator (for 134a). I get 41F air in the hot days of summer 50-100F here in Kansas and 38F air (vent temp) during cooler times.
If you have a manifold gauge and vacuum pump and can read the FSM or other A/C tech book then you can do it. Also, you can take a test to get your MVAC license and purchase your own R12 legally.
The problem with any refrigerant other than R12 (the best) or R134a is that unless you do your own work, no air shop will touch it. The cost to handle and dispose of unknown/unpure refrigerants is just too high...not to mention the issues of possibly contaminating your recycle cylinder of R12!!!
There is so much material available on the web - get informed and do it!
DANGER: Any refrigerant or HC (hydro-carbon) in the cabin is always a bad thing. You need to know that breathing refrigerant can stop your heart! If you have a leak leave the area until everything has dissapated and it is safe. As a general rule, don't work in an enclosed facility.
That being said...almost everyone can enjoy really cold air in their ride using R134a. If you live in the Southwestern US or other very hot/sunny climates you need to consider staying with R12 or an alternative. Some very good reports from pure hydro-carbons (flammable gases like butane...etc) are available, but check your local laws.
With R134a you can make a mistake and not be missing tremendous dollars for refrigerant that escaped when you weren't looking!
One word for the local air-shop. There are many gremlins in any AC system. You can do basic recharges, etc with the correct equipment (good for a club purchase) but sometimes you need a professional. They have an investment in equipment and training that is worth your investment.
Oh yes, if you don't pull a complete vacuum on your system:
1. You won't get the cooling/performance you expect.
2. Any water vapor will eventually convert to acid and eat your system from the inside out.
Don't try to service your vehicle without a manifold gauge set and a vacuum pump.
I converted the fj60 to 134a due to cost reasons quite a few years ago. Original compressor, evaporator, condensor, valve, new drier/accumulator (for 134a). I get 41F air in the hot days of summer 50-100F here in Kansas and 38F air (vent temp) during cooler times.
If you have a manifold gauge and vacuum pump and can read the FSM or other A/C tech book then you can do it. Also, you can take a test to get your MVAC license and purchase your own R12 legally.
The problem with any refrigerant other than R12 (the best) or R134a is that unless you do your own work, no air shop will touch it. The cost to handle and dispose of unknown/unpure refrigerants is just too high...not to mention the issues of possibly contaminating your recycle cylinder of R12!!!
There is so much material available on the web - get informed and do it!
DANGER: Any refrigerant or HC (hydro-carbon) in the cabin is always a bad thing. You need to know that breathing refrigerant can stop your heart! If you have a leak leave the area until everything has dissapated and it is safe. As a general rule, don't work in an enclosed facility.
That being said...almost everyone can enjoy really cold air in their ride using R134a. If you live in the Southwestern US or other very hot/sunny climates you need to consider staying with R12 or an alternative. Some very good reports from pure hydro-carbons (flammable gases like butane...etc) are available, but check your local laws.
With R134a you can make a mistake and not be missing tremendous dollars for refrigerant that escaped when you weren't looking!
One word for the local air-shop. There are many gremlins in any AC system. You can do basic recharges, etc with the correct equipment (good for a club purchase) but sometimes you need a professional. They have an investment in equipment and training that is worth your investment.
Oh yes, if you don't pull a complete vacuum on your system:
1. You won't get the cooling/performance you expect.
2. Any water vapor will eventually convert to acid and eat your system from the inside out.
Don't try to service your vehicle without a manifold gauge set and a vacuum pump.
Good info, dave - I have a guage and Harbor Freight venturi-type pump, but am trying to beg/borrow a real vacuum pump. I have a case of R12 cans and some old Toyota R12 w/ ND6 oil charge cans...
System has been open a while, but I'd like to stay R12 and learn to do it myself. I bought a new dryer and expansion valve. Main question is, is the Compressor ok to use, being open so long but stored well, or do I need to rebuild (get a rebuilt unit) ... ??
System has been open a while, but I'd like to stay R12 and learn to do it myself. I bought a new dryer and expansion valve. Main question is, is the Compressor ok to use, being open so long but stored well, or do I need to rebuild (get a rebuilt unit) ... ??
If the compressor was stored in a bag inside you should be fine. The big killer is moisture.....if it or anything else got moisture in it you may have problems. Most do not know this but per drop of water it takes a vacuum(average) pump 24 hours to pull that out.
BTW the older gas(R-12 and such) is much better than the 134 A. well its not so much the gas its the lubricant...The oil in the 134 A breaks down far faster than the older stuff. This is why newer appliances and compressors fail in comparison to the much older stuff So use your old stuff and feel lucky you even have some
. dave is 100 % correct .....in cost comparison 134 A stuff is much cheaper.
BTW the older gas(R-12 and such) is much better than the 134 A. well its not so much the gas its the lubricant...The oil in the 134 A breaks down far faster than the older stuff. This is why newer appliances and compressors fail in comparison to the much older stuff So use your old stuff and feel lucky you even have some
. dave is 100 % correct .....in cost comparison 134 A stuff is much cheaper.
Where is a good place to get a manifold gauge set?
Ebay. Lots of good used and new stuff cheap.
Just stay away from the ones from Harbor Freight.
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