hole in valve thingie (1 Viewer)

[grrlscout89FJ62]

GODDAMNIT I HATE IT WHEN I POST AND THEN THE SERVER PUNKS OUT!

K, now that that's outta my system ...

As I mentioned in a previous post, I found a hole in a hose - yes, that's my technical assessment. I looked in the BIG BOOK (aka the shop manual), and found that this hose is part of the emissions system, and it goes from the ASV to the engine. At the end, there's a pressure valve. That's where the hole is.

Coincidentally (???) opposite this hole, there's a plastic clip that's utterly melted. But when the engine is running, no hot air comes out of the hole. It sucks air. And when the hole is covered, the engine runs smoother.

So what I'm wondering is, how vital is it that I get this valve replaced? Will that hole eff up other things?

A little backstory, the PO had some trouble getting this vehicle through emissions. According to the carfax report, it failed 2x in a row. He told me he had to get some repairs / alterations done in order for it to pass.

 

[cahilc]

...

It sucks air. And when the hole is covered, the engine runs smoother.

So what I'm wondering is, how vital is it that I get this valve replaced? Will that hole eff up other things?

Hmmm, try vacuum leak ??? Yes, want to stop that sucking hole. Try electrical tape for short term measure. The real important clue was ... engine runs better. When the hole is fixed you might notice dizzy advancing better too.

Got pic of it ?

Cheers,
Cahil

 

[grrlscout89FJ62]

Thanks! Of course, today is the one day I left my digicam at home. I'll bring it tomorrow though.

 

[Landpimp]

yeah pics needed I am lost about what your talking about.

almost sounds like the EGR or something........

 

[grrlscout89FJ62]

I described it to the folks at cruiserparts.net, and they thought it was an "air injection rail valve."

According to the SOR catalog, it's a "check valve." I circled it in their pic:

Nonetheless, I'll take some pics tomorrow morning.

 

[dmwberg]

Thats a common part to go on a 60. Removing it can be a serious PITA too. I'd suggest hosing it with PB blaster 2 or 3 times (at least and let it sit!) before trying to turn it. I think I actually have a brand new OEM (still in plastic) in my parts box from a while back, I'm now running smogless so I'll never need it! pm me if you want it.

Doug

 

[grrlscout89FJ62]

Thanks Doug! Is that part different on a 60 than on a 62? Btw, um, what's pb blaster?

I don't know if y'all still need them, but I finally took pics:

 

[Ming89FJ62]

Cool holes... PB Blaster is by far (IMHO) the best rust breaker in a can there is (big mother torch w/ MAPP gas works well too). You should be able to find it any any automotive parts store, PB Blaster that is. Spray the threads, spray again, wait, spray again thend get a BFW and attack.

Harry

 

[Landpimp]

Kroil puts PB Blaster to shame..........IMHO

Cool holes... PB Blaster is by far (IMHO) the best rust breaker in a can there is (big mother torch w/ MAPP gas works well too). You should be able to find it any any automotive parts store, PB Blaster that is. Spray the threads, spray again, wait, spray again thend get a BFW and attack.

Harry

 

[thorvald]

Pimp: where do you find Kroil?

grrlscout: nice pics of your valve thingy, btw.

 

[yooper]

PB Blaster is weak like Junk. Kroil and Toyopeen (Toyota High Performance Penetrating Lubricant) are the only choices worth considering. Kroil is available only from Kano Laboratories by mail order. Make sure you try to find the "deal" on the web site, or call them and ask for the deal - they always have a promotion of some kind going, which usually is good enough to negate their exhorbitant shipping charges. Toyopeen is available at any Toyota dealer, part number 00530-1PL00

A combination of Kroil and Toyopeen is like magic. Once you try it your can of PB Blaster will languish on the back of the shelf like mine does, with the WD40 keeping it company.

 

[Fourrunner]

Napa carry Kroil?

 

[JK]

Air Injection Rail Check Valve

My 89' 62 has the identical part, i have had it apart many times and there has always been condensate collected in it. Mine is starting to rust from the inside out. The strange thing is it should be under positive pressure from the smog pump once the engine heats up.
Good Luck!