HJ75 inconsistent driveline vibration

[HJ75]

sweat, windows down take the kids to the beach .
genuine cassette doesn't get used, should pull it one day. I get no reception or phone signal in the bush so I got the separate world radio which goes bluetooth to a jbl extreme , thumps near my head. Important things..jbl keeps charged from inverter behind passenger.

yours looks alright, I tend to pull the floor mat if any chance of condensation between rubber, felt and metal..I put epoxy resin and fibre glass rove like a tough canoe finish for all the steel floor deck, better than fibre glass resin, epoxy flexes and scuffs.
View attachment 2799858

I figured that it was going to be hot without an air con, got a quote to install air conditioning, $3500-4000! Apparently parts are very difficult to come across.

I do like the Bluetooth speaker idea, up there well out of the way and effective, that original radio of yours might be worth something.

Mine still has the original radio (AM only), I've brought a 12v Bluetooth module that outputs via an AUX cable. I am going to try wire this into the original speakers to keep the unmodified look. I hope that it works, no amplification is my worry.

I gutted the whole interior when I got the car, the dirt underneath the rubber floor was an inch thick in places, but no rust.
I painted the floor with primer then fitted a TRU fit rubber floor mat.
Your Epoxy/fibreglass idea sounds far more durable.

Interesting colour, is your car ex fire brigade or CFA? I have seen two others in this colour and one red one, all were ex fire brigade.

 

[sodafeld1]

just don't like air con, to breathe or in my cars. You can get hot rodders aftermarket aircons and heaters..

I like the boombox as I can disconnect and take the party anywhere, it has excellent bass. If I leave the car unattended somewhere sus, I remove the valuables. Should have removed the ash tray with coins. Boombox goes where the fire brigade had the cb radio.

Done a fair bit of fibreglass and epoxy moulding all sorts of things, way prefer epoxy. Fibreglass resin is pushed to the consumer as it is far cheaper. I really can't stand the smell of fibre resin and it goes brittle. I make my own filler bog from epoxy resin and lightweight qcells, (just for fairing).
I chuck bricks straight onto the epoxy and rove surface, tough as, canoe like. Epoxy would be cheaper than that raptor ute liner stuff and I can make all sorts of things with epoxy and resurface is easy.

Lucky with no rust. I was too with the ex rural fire brigade. It is factory original toyota colour code '000' When I got her I just had to say that is cool! Even vicroads lady said it was unusual.
Mind you, it is the same as kubota orange, available at tractor stores.

Two of the best things I did with troopy is register with all 8 rear seats, so I am a bus to carry 11. Extractors on a non turbo, sounds ace!

Mind you the wreck I am working on is a rust nightmare..Dhead pv owner even painted it canary yellow on the rust.. but learning motor, crank, cam, gearbox, diffs , transfer, injectors..lots of things to fix and have spares. Worth me to learn, love her.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Any idea why they tend to grind when cold?

Its an old fashioned design. Most old gearboxes needed some warmth to stir the oil in the morning

 

[roscoFJ73]

Not sure if rosco lubed his periodically for the moon and back.

They already had 200000klms on them when I bought them. Just as easy to put a $20 hilux cable on them as pulling it to bits to add oil to them.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I wonder why they are so rare, Toyota are asking $180 for a new ash tray! and they only come in black.

Because a lot of mining companies and other workplaces threw them out and were never put into storage. Nothing worse than getting in a shared work vehicle that has a stinking, overflowing ash tray.
My mate drives a 200 ton dump truck in an iron ore mine that he shares with a female driver. While they are waiting to get unloaded, the women drivers urinate behind the front left hand wheel by turning the steering wheel right hand down to get some privacy. Then she wipes her vagina with a paper tissue and leaves it on the floor of the dump truck. Its driving him crazy.

 

[sodafeld1]

Because a lot of mining companies and other workplaces threw them out and were never put into storage. Nothing worse than getting in a shared work vehicle that has a stinking, overflowing ash tray.
My mate drives a 200 ton dump truck in an iron ore mine that he shares with a female driver. While they are waiting to get unloaded, the women drivers urinate behind the front left hand wheel by turning the steering wheel right hand down to get some privacy. Then she wipes her vagina with a paper tissue and leaves it on the floor of the dump truck. Its driving him crazy.

Eww, now that is hauntingly fezza. Don't need an image of her. Mornin to you. Glad my wife doesn't do that!. Normally I am the dirty one.

Had a mate work in the mines up north, the damage done to any vehicle going underground is absolute carnage, totally abused, banged against walls, other vehicles, like mad max smash up derby. Mining industry runs like no tomorrow , always has been boom or bust.

They are decking out landcruisers with all electric motors now on utubby specifacally for mines. Not for me, but good to know available for a large bit of a coin. All throw away of course, real green wash. No sparks tho.

My gearbox is slow, it is fairly tight. Change clutch fluid regularly. Start in 2nd usually, can't rush into 3rd or she would grind. I have learnt to live with it, go slow, don't grind. If I can start in 3rd, I do, in the traffic, every other car starts faster, porsche 4wd showed how big his testes were last night. I have worked on bmw x5's, hated it. $800 bucks for a secondhand x5 side mirror. Sucks in the city really, for many reasons. One day shall get to rebuild the wreck's gearbox, looks doable but tricky. Be nice to know what a new h55f feels like. They are made for the country for sure, I was in APY lands, S.A. for awhile, most common vehicle was LCs.

 

[HJ75]

just don't like air con, to breathe or in my cars. You can get hot rodders aftermarket aircons and heaters..

I like the boombox as I can disconnect and take the party anywhere, it has excellent bass. If I leave the car unattended somewhere sus, I remove the valuables. Should have removed the ash tray with coins. Boombox goes where the fire brigade had the cb radio.

Done a fair bit of fibreglass and epoxy moulding all sorts of things, way prefer epoxy. Fibreglass resin is pushed to the consumer as it is far cheaper. I really can't stand the smell of fibre resin and it goes brittle. I make my own filler bog from epoxy resin and lightweight qcells, (just for fairing).
I chuck bricks straight onto the epoxy and rove surface, tough as, canoe like. Epoxy would be cheaper than that raptor ute liner stuff and I can make all sorts of things with epoxy and resurface is easy.

Lucky with no rust. I was too with the ex rural fire brigade. It is factory original toyota colour code '000' When I got her I just had to say that is cool! Even vicroads lady said it was unusual.
Mind you, it is the same as kubota orange, available at tractor stores.

Two of the best things I did with troopy is register with all 8 rear seats, so I am a bus to carry 11. Extractors on a non turbo, sounds ace!

Mind you the wreck I am working on is a rust nightmare..Dhead pv owner even painted it canary yellow on the rust.. but learning motor, crank, cam, gearbox, diffs , transfer, injectors..lots of things to fix and have spares. Worth me to learn, love her.

Depending on how my Bluetooth module idea pans out I may very well follow your lead and buy a portable speaker for simplicity sake.

I wonder, would your epoxy method be any good to seal the inside of a steel water tank??
I will be trying to integrate a water tank into the headboard of my 'newer' tray. Haven't figured out how I will seal the inside of it to prevent rust, making it out of alloy or stainless is a bit beyond my skillset.

I have come to learn just how valuable spare parts are, anything decent that I replace I hang onto now.

No big surprise but my exhaust has been messed with, cut and poorly welded back together just below the manifold (the whole system is sitting 5mm forward of where it wants to sit, all my rubber hangers are on weird angles) no clue how or why this has been done in the past, but extractors might allow me to cut out the dodgey section and push everything back.

 

[HJ75]

Because a lot of mining companies and other workplaces threw them out and were never put into storage. Nothing worse than getting in a shared work vehicle that has a stinking, overflowing ash tray.
My mate drives a 200 ton dump truck in an iron ore mine that he shares with a female driver. While they are waiting to get unloaded, the women drivers urinate behind the front left hand wheel by turning the steering wheel right hand down to get some privacy. Then she wipes her vagina with a paper tissue and leaves it on the floor of the dump truck. Its driving him crazy.

That made me shudder just reading that... better him than me.

That makes sense that the boxes need time to warm up, especially with heavy mineral gear oil.
Once mine is at operating temperature its like butter.

I think it took 20 minutes and 1 Phillps head screwdriver to replace my speedo cable, I was surprised how easy it was.

 

[HJ75]

Eww, now that is hauntingly fezza. Don't need an image of her. Mornin to you. Glad my wife doesn't do that!. Normally I am the dirty one.

Had a mate work in the mines up north, the damage done to any vehicle going underground is absolute carnage, totally abused, banged against walls, other vehicles, like mad max smash up derby. Mining industry runs like no tomorrow , always has been boom or bust.

They are decking out landcruisers with all electric motors now on utubby specifacally for mines. Not for me, but good to know available for a large bit of a coin. All throw away of course, real green wash. No sparks tho.

My gearbox is slow, it is fairly tight. Change clutch fluid regularly. Start in 2nd usually, can't rush into 3rd or she would grind. I have learnt to live with it, go slow, don't grind. If I can start in 3rd, I do, in the traffic, every other car starts faster, porsche 4wd showed how big his testes were last night. I have worked on bmw x5's, hated it. $800 bucks for a secondhand x5 side mirror. Sucks in the city really, for many reasons. One day shall get to rebuild the wreck's gearbox, looks doable but tricky. Be nice to know what a new h55f feels like. They are made for the country for sure, I was in APY lands, S.A. for awhile, most common vehicle was LCs.

I remember seeing a documentary with Jeremy Clarkson made in the 90s, they were looking at the mining vehicles used underground in WA. They had a large fleet of 75 series and 2 Land Rovers (one of which they spent over $100,000 on just to keep it going!)

I know what you mean by saying they are made for the country, I live in the inner suburbs and it is definitely not the place to daily drive a 2H 75 series. But I soon learnt how to handle it, all things considered it keeps up with traffic and stops well. parking and tight manoeuvring can be tricky at times but I wouldn't want to drive anything else.

 

[sodafeld1]

best water tank is welded stainless. No goop. There is a melbourne manufacturer of stainless water tanks selling seconds on ebay every now and then. Just keep an eye out and be patient, sometimes gumtree..something the right size and price may appear cheaper than what you can fab it for and better.

I think you are turbo? no extractors for them, just a big pipe with one big curve and a two little bends isn't it? I run without my bash plates underneath as I am always fiddlin with something under. The exhaust system is pretty simple. But there is quite a few versions of 2h turbos out there I think. 3inch tube, not sure? Also I believe the older one piece exhaust manifold is prefered for the hairdryer.

During one summer after several really good squeaky cleans underneath and hose in the chassis both ways, drilled 8mm water holes in any part of the body and cavities where water and dust collects so I can stick a little hose in there, including the box cavities which bolts the tub to frame. Just re-plug them with 8mm rubber grommets, after blow dry, and then cavity wax.
Nice and cool under a troopy during summer, I hand painted all the tub underneath. You get a good look at the exhaust that way.

I was tempted to go stainless with the exhaust tube when I fitted the extractors. $200 secondhand pacemakers, blue like new. But local muffler guy said just drive it down without the exhaust, that was nicely loud, turned a few heads! He convinced me to go mild steel 2 1/2inch and a razor muff, cost about 300bucks and I can dissasemble and reassemble it any time. Assuring me it will outlast my life. He is rebuilding an 1940's holden ground up on a rostaree. Bought him a box of choccys. Nicely sorted. Manta sells stainless exhaust kits, but really happy with mine.

 

[HJ75]

best water tank is welded stainless. No goop. There is a melbourne manufacturer of stainless water tanks selling seconds on ebay every now and then. Just keep an eye out and be patient, sometimes gumtree..something the right size and price may appear cheaper than what you can fab it for and better.

I think you are turbo? no extractors for them, just a big pipe with one big curve and a two little bends isn't it? I run without my bash plates underneath as I am always fiddlin with something under. The exhaust system is pretty simple. But there is quite a few versions of 2h turbos out there I think. 3inch tube, not sure? Also I believe the older one piece exhaust manifold is prefered for the hairdryer.

During one summer after several really good squeaky cleans underneath and hose in the chassis both ways, drilled 8mm water holes in any part of the body and cavities where water and dust collects so I can stick a little hose in there, including the box cavities which bolts the tub to frame. Just re-plug them with 8mm rubber grommets, after blow dry, and then cavity wax.
Nice and cool under a troopy during summer, I hand painted all the tub underneath. You get a good look at the exhaust that way.

I was tempted to go stainless with the exhaust tube when I fitted the extractors. $200 secondhand pacemakers, blue like new. But local muffler guy said just drive it down without the exhaust, that was nicely loud, turned a few heads! He convinced me to go mild steel 2 1/2inch and a razor muff, cost about 300bucks and I can dissasemble and reassemble it any time. Assuring me it will outlast my life. He is rebuilding an 1940's holden ground up on a rostaree. Bought him a box of choccys. Nicely sorted. Manta sells stainless exhaust kits, but really happy with mine.

Getting a ready made stainless tank like you say is probably going to save me some headaches in the long run.
Was able to pick up the tray for a decent price so there must be affordable tanks out there.

No turbo I'm afraid, just a N/A 2H. as you can see the exhaust system isn't very happy, several farm fixes. I have never seen exhaust hanger fractures like this.

I didn't realise exhaust systems are that affordable, fixing this mess isn't a priority but I'm not happy with how awkwardly it fits.

I really like the idea of undercarriage cleaning and rust prevention, what degreaser/ soap do you use?
Whilst trying to find this vibration I spent a great deal of time under the car, soon started to notice little things such as my exhaust issues.

Best not get me started on old Holden's, that is another passion.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Once mine is at operating temperature its like butter.

I was told thats the sign of a good gearbox. If they loosen up too quick, they are showing signs of wear. You can make them loosen up faster by revving them in gear with the t/case in neutral. I guess the cogs stir the oil and thin it out.

 

[HJ75]

I was told thats the sign of a good gearbox. If they loosen up too quick, they are showing signs of wear. You can make them loosen up faster by revving them in gear with the t/case in neutral. I guess the cogs stir the oil and thin it out.

I'd say you're right on that one, by the time I get to the top of my street it is obviously still cold but able to shift 'nicer' than when I first take off.
I used to drive an old Holden and the longer you drove it the smoother it got.

 

[sodafeld1]

she is simply old mate, looks original exhaust. and about to fall off.

You won't regret extractors if you don't go turbo. there is a few on the market, some prices make you think chinese, I was lucky with my pacemakers. Mind you, I am about to give a chinese cylinder head a go. It shall become near impossible to avoid chinese made.

I reckon all cars should come standard with extractors and sunroof.

I have a good relationship with a few pro spanner blokes. I really respect them, blown out how crap they can be treated by folks who know nothing.

Even then, must admit, I try to do as much of the work myself, a business simply can not put the same time that I do. I don't have the pipe benders, but I could fit the extractors for example.

I like the kbs aquablast, buy bulk, lots of different types of brushes, pressure washer at home. Steam would be good, but no easy access to me. Proper cleaning to me is take it off, degrease, wire wheel, rust treat, paint with any paint, and put back on. The nylon abrasives are really good. Kero or diesel if really greasy dirty. Molasses for rust if you are doing a whole panel or door in a cattle trough, or evaporust or equivalent, kbs rustblast. Don't mind ferronite in some places either. Brake cleaner bulk. bucks$$. always wire wheel or grind before using rust convert of any kind, mechanically remove the rust, or you just waste money.

Because it is kubota orange tractor enamel paint it goes on easy and forgiving, best where the uv does not hit it.
Next project troopy shall be toyota olive green which shall give some challenges. In the long run tho, I don't worry too much much about a few dings and scratches as it happens every time I go bush, scratches at least, as long as there is no rust. I like and prefer a bit of patina.
I also have an old merc, always worried where to park the pre madonna, she is pedantic compared to the tojo.

I'll take a pic in daylight of underneath tomorrow.

 

[HJ75]

she is simply old mate, looks original exhaust. and about to fall off.

You won't regret extractors if you don't go turbo. there is a few on the market, some prices make you think chinese, I was lucky with my pacemakers. Mind you, I am about to give a chinese cylinder head a go. It shall become near impossible to avoid chinese made.

I reckon all cars should come standard with extractors and sunroof.

I have a good relationship with a few pro spanner blokes. I really respect them, blown out how crap they can be treated by folks who know nothing.

Even then, must admit, I try to do as much of the work myself, a business simply can not put the same time that I do. I don't have the pipe benders, but I could fit the extractors for example.

I like the kbs aquablast, buy bulk, lots of different types of brushes, pressure washer at home. Steam would be good, but no easy access to me. Proper cleaning to me is take it off, degrease, wire wheel, rust treat, paint with any paint, and put back on. The nylon abrasives are really good. Kero or diesel if really greasy dirty. Molasses for rust if you are doing a whole panel or door in a cattle trough, or evaporust or equivalent, kbs rustblast. Don't mind ferronite in some places either. Brake cleaner bulk. bucks$$. always wire wheel or grind before using rust convert of any kind, mechanically remove the rust, or you just waste money.

Because it is kubota orange tractor enamel paint it goes on easy and forgiving, best where the uv does not hit it.
Next project troopy shall be toyota olive green which shall give some challenges. In the long run tho, I don't worry too much much about a few dings and scratches as it happens every time I go bush, scratches at least, as long as there is no rust. I like and prefer a bit of patina.
I also have an old merc, always worried where to park the pre madonna, she is pedantic compared to the tojo.

I'll take a pic in daylight of underneath tomorrow.

Thank you, I will definitely keep that kbs stuff in mind next time I do an undercarriage clean. I plan on taking the tray off and going to town on the chassis.

I wasn't sure if that was normal for an exhaust to end up like that, but then again there is 32 years worth of heavy use on it. Look at AU falcons and things these days and the tail pipes are falling off!

I will be very interested to hear how you go with that Chinese cylinder head, I have never heard of one.
That Bluetooth receiver of mine arrived from China today, took over 2 months to get here so I'd say the head won't be in a rush.

I agree completely on patina, I cut and polished my 75 when I got it and it came up unbelievably good. Mate of mine said I should respray it but then you become hesitant to use it once you go doing things like that. I am more than happy to live with the battle scars. (fortunately no rust).
I brought the 75 knowing that I could comfortably drive it hail rain or shine and park it anywhere without worrying about it getting dirty or scratched.
The old Holden on the other hand I was paranoid about.

When you get around to it, I'd be interested to see the green troopy, I haven't seen a green 70 series before but I think that it would work nicely, especially with an old school olive green.

 

[sodafeld1]

she is simply old mate, looks original exhaust. and about to fall off.

You won't regret extractors if you don't go turbo. there is a few on the market, some prices make you think chinese, I was lucky with my pacemakers. Mind you, I am about to give a chinese cylinder head a go. It shall become near impossible to avoid chinese made.

I reckon all cars should come standard with extractors and sunroof.

I have a good relationship with a few pro spanner blokes. I really respect them, blown out how crap they can be treated by folks who know nothing.

Even then, must admit, I try to do as much of the work myself, a business simply can not put the same time that I do. I don't have the pipe benders, but I could fit the extractors for example.

I like the kbs aquablast, buy bulk, lots of different types of brushes, pressure washer at home. Steam would be good, but no easy access to me. Proper cleaning to me is take it off, degrease, wire wheel, rust treat, paint with any paint, and put back on. The nylon abrasives are really good. Kero or diesel if really greasy dirty. Molasses for rust if you are doing a whole panel or door in a cattle trough, or evaporust or equivalent, kbs rustblast. Don't mind ferronite in some places either. Brake cleaner bulk. bucks$$. always wire wheel or grind before using rust convert of any kind, mechanically remove the rust, or you just waste money.

Because it is kubota orange tractor enamel paint it goes on easy and forgiving, best where the uv does not hit it.
Next project troopy shall be toyota olive green which shall give some challenges. In the long run tho, I don't worry too much much about a few dings and scratches as it happens every time I go bush, scratches at least, as long as there is no rust. I like and prefer a bit of patina.
I also have an old merc, always worried where to park the pre madonna, she is pedantic compared to the tojo.

I'll take a pic in daylight of underneath tomorrow.

bit slow but here is the exhaust..

 

[HJ75]

bit slow but here is the exhaust..View attachment 2808461View attachment 2808460View attachment 2808459View attachment 2808458

Looks very clean under there.
Those pacemakers are unreal, very tempting!

Was the undercarriage that nice when you got it? I will be doing one of your deep cleans when I get a chance.

 

[sodafeld1]

fire brigade maintained her well mechanically and kept under cover. but they get bashed in fire events. they upgrade to a new truck between 80000-180000km. slight bend in chassis over approx 3.6 length, 5-8mm banana from rear wheel back to front wheel back, tell tale was the bull bar had a nasty bend.

I have pulled, cleaned, repaired and repainted nearly all but the engine, gear box and diff. Re-caulked , seam sealed, cavity wax and added extra drainage holes throughout. Under carriage was originally sound deadener black, I just painted over with a brush and a few aerosol cans where the brush couldn't work after lots of obsessive cleaning. Epoxy and roving all throughout interior floor. My old exhaust looked similar to yours, just old.

learning engine now from the wreck

 

[sodafeld1]

fire brigade maintained her well mechanically and kept under cover. but they get bashed in fire events. they upgrade to a new truck between 80000-180000km. slight bend in chassis over approx 3.6 length, 5-8mm banana from rear wheel back to front wheel back, tell tale was the bull bar had a nasty bend.

I have pulled, cleaned, repaired and repainted nearly all but the engine, gear box and diff. Re-caulked , seam sealed, cavity wax and added extra drainage holes throughout. Under carriage was originally sound deadener black, I just painted over with a brush and a few aerosol cans where the brush couldn't work after lots of obsessive cleaning. Epoxy and roving all throughout interior floor. My old exhaust looked similar to yours, just old.

learning engine now from the wreckView attachment 2811179

if you do get some extractors , try out the vht flameproof ceramic paint and report back, it looks like it may be good , not a bad price..my pacemakers are starting to lose the pretty blue paint.

 

[HJ75]

fire brigade maintained her well mechanically and kept under cover. but they get bashed in fire events. they upgrade to a new truck between 80000-180000km. slight bend in chassis over approx 3.6 length, 5-8mm banana from rear wheel back to front wheel back, tell tale was the bull bar had a nasty bend.

I have pulled, cleaned, repaired and repainted nearly all but the engine, gear box and diff. Re-caulked , seam sealed, cavity wax and added extra drainage holes throughout. Under carriage was originally sound deadener black, I just painted over with a brush and a few aerosol cans where the brush couldn't work after lots of obsessive cleaning. Epoxy and roving all throughout interior floor. My old exhaust looked similar to yours, just old.

learning engine now from the wreckView attachment 2811179

The chassis bend isn't a surprise, a mate of mine in the CFA destroyed the sill of a CFA GU patrol by backing over a tree stump. I suppose they are just like a company car. Out of curiosity, did the CFA fit Warn high-mount winches? I wouldn't mind tracking one down.

All things considered, it is very nice and well protected. I'd say you've given it the best chance you can. Mine has no rust and I would like to keep it that way.

In terms of exhaust paint, that is an area I can help, just painted the exhaust system on the Holden.

I used Dupli-color ceramic black exhaust paint. (matte finish)
I first sanded the exhaust with high grit paper and went over it with prepsol, applies nicely out of the can and seemed to adhere ok.
The biggest thing is that it needs to cure with heat, they recommend baking in an oven which isn't practical.

I just fitted it after a day and got it up to operating temperature, I am satisfied with it however last week I tried to clean something off it with brake clean and it took paint off too, probably my fault.

I applied several decent coats so it had a thick coverage, I have been told that was a bad idea because it may crack when curing with heat.
If possible, a few light coats with heating in between might be better.