HJ75 inconsistent driveline vibration

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I have never lifted on purpose, but I raised 45mm in front and 60mm in rear inadvertently, when putting in new heavy duty springs, from old saggy springs. Even used hjz75 rear springs which are a tad longer, but dobinsons said it would be fine, they were right. Not sure where the original height was, but I feel like I am wearing high heels. This changed steering angles, but i changed tie rods and relay rod at the same time, so no biggie there.

I did not need to change the angle of perch, drive shaft and diff run fine. No wobbles.
Also , unsure if spring over mod changes the angle too, probably.
The design of the shaft, being able to extend and contract along with the spiders bearings give a fairly flexible range.

Maybe your driveshaft is upside down, wrong way round, balanced? That would wobble noticeably and breed all sorts of gremlins.
A really good clean is wise. The wreck I am working on was driven through wet cement! It set like rock in horrible places all over the place. Not knowing the history or integrity of the previous owner does suck.

Did you try new balanced tyres in the front? That would be my first port of call.
 
The part that confuses me the most is that it is inconsistent

I had noises and vibrations at certain speeds and it took a Tcase rebuild to fix it.
Have you checked the gearbox mount? It may not be broken, but they go soft and squishy with age, especially if oil has been leaking onto them.
I would also get all 4 wheels off the ground and run through the gears and see what happens.
 
I have never lifted on purpose, but I raised 45mm in front and 60mm in rear inadvertently, when putting in new heavy duty springs, from old saggy springs. Even used hjz75 rear springs which are a tad longer, but dobinsons said it would be fine, they were right. Not sure where the original height was, but I feel like I am wearing high heels. This changed steering angles, but i changed tie rods and relay rod at the same time, so no biggie there.

I did not need to change the angle of perch, drive shaft and diff run fine. No wobbles.
Also , unsure if spring over mod changes the angle too, probably.
The design of the shaft, being able to extend and contract along with the spiders bearings give a fairly flexible range.

Maybe your driveshaft is upside down, wrong way round, balanced? That would wobble noticeably and breed all sorts of gremlins.
A really good clean is wise. The wreck I am working on was driven through wet cement! It set like rock in horrible places all over the place. Not knowing the history or integrity of the previous owner does suck.

Did you try new balanced tyres in the front? That would be my first port of call.
Tyres!!

When I got the car registered I did a wheel alignment and had to replace 2 tyres, these were balanced and my other 2 were just inspected and reused.

So when I first discovered this issue I rotated the wheels front to back and the vibration seemed to stay in the rear.
I dismissed the tyres because of this, thinking surely the vibration would move if it was tyres.

Driving around last week was making me crazy, endless vibrations that got worse, went away, came back.
I decided to get the tyres rebalanced over the weekend (I didn't really trust the tyre shop that did it the first time).
This time around I went to the local TyrePower, and they refused to balance my tyres.
Apparently my Kumho mud terrains (that were just fitted) were very old, hadn't been made in that design for many years.

4 new tyres and a wheel alignment later and the vibration is gone, completely.
 
I had noises and vibrations at certain speeds and it took a Tcase rebuild to fix it.
Have you checked the gearbox mount? It may not be broken, but they go soft and squishy with age, especially if oil has been leaking onto them.
I would also get all 4 wheels off the ground and run through the gears and see what happens.
Transmission was going to be my next focus, there really wasn't much else. Thankfully it was the tyres after all.

I might still need to rebuild my gearbox soon, the syncro on 2nd isn't great when cold, once warmed up, its fine.

Out of curiosity, can you rewind the odometer on a 75? I don't know how true my 350,000 km odometer reading is...
 
the syncro on 2nd isn't great when cold, once warmed up, its fine.
This is somewhat normal on H55F gearbox. I had 2 rebuilt with new synchros and it is still a little growly when cold. When its growling on all gear changes and whining its head off, thats rebuild time.
 
Transmission was going to be my next focus, there really wasn't much else. Thankfully it was the tyres after all.

I might still need to rebuild my gearbox soon, the syncro on 2nd isn't great when cold, once warmed up, its fine.

Out of curiosity, can you rewind the odometer on a 75? I don't know how true my 350,000 km odometer reading is...
glad it was the tyres! some other bearing damage would have been done, pending on how long you have been vibrating.
 
I don't know how true my 350,000 km odometer reading is..
All of mine had speedo cable replacememts before 300000. I replaced them immediately , but some people let it go for months, years.
 
I have been through a couple speedo cables, they need to be lubed. But the wreck I am working on which has done 350000km too, has taught me the impressive carnage of neglect can do. Literally drove into the ground like no tomorrow. I bet a nice cold beer, your front bearings need doing.
 
This is somewhat normal on H55F gearbox. I had 2 rebuilt with new synchros and it is still a little growly when cold. When its growling on all gear changes and whining its head off, thats rebuild time.
That's a relief, I really didn't want to rebuild the gearbox.

Any idea why they tend to grind when cold?
 
glad it was the tyres! some other bearing damage would have been done, pending on how long you have been vibrating.
I am worried that might have happened.

I did at most 500km with the vibration, I sure hope that it didn't cause any damage?
Haven't noticed anything unusual since I replaced the tyres.
 
I have been through a couple speedo cables, they need to be lubed. But the wreck I am working on which has done 350000km too, has taught me the impressive carnage of neglect can do. Literally drove into the ground like no tomorrow. I bet a nice cold beer, your front bearings need doing.
How do you correctly lubricate a speedo cable? I just replaced mine and it appeared to be pre-lubricated.

I know exactly what you mean, 350,000 doesn't sound like much but who knows what mine has been put through...
It is incredible how long things last when properly maintained and not abused, 700,000km is an achievement.

I replaced my front wheel bearings as soon as I got the car, never felt the vibration through the steering at all so I hope they haven't been flogged out already.

Next change I get I might jack it up and check for play.
 
How do you correctly lubricate a speedo cable? I just replaced mine and it appeared to be pre-lubricated.

I know exactly what you mean, 350,000 doesn't sound like much but who knows what mine has been put through...
It is incredible how long things last when properly maintained and not abused, 700,000km is an achievement.

I replaced my front wheel bearings as soon as I got the car, never felt the vibration through the steering at all so I hope they haven't been flogged out already.

Next change I get I might jack it up and check for play.
well, here we go, reckon there is a few ways to skin cats but..first time I researched and tried a teflon lube like used for key locks, chain gears and seat belts, something which stuff won't stick to. That did not last, why it wore out.
Second time stuff the research and used a high temp, high pressure bearing grease. been good for at least 100000k so far.
I now use inox mx8 guided by the Sharpe spindle greaser, which I think is a ripper idea. I have no affliation, but an ozzy who comes up with good ideas. mx8 is a rare one shot grease, but most would chime in to use moly grease for bearings.. Anyways, sharpe also makes a rear wheel lock nut for the wheel bearings, 3xfiner which poos all over the oem nut, which is a loose design and no wonder folks snap rear hub nuts when neglected, using the oem.

Not sure if rosco lubed his periodically for the moon and back.
If it is cactus, it is obvious. they are cheap in the grand scheme, can even get them off the shelf at a repco.
 
well, here we go, reckon there is a few ways to skin cats but..first time I researched and tried a teflon lube like used for key locks, chain gears and seat belts, something which stuff won't stick to. That did not last, why it wore out.
Second time stuff the research and used a high temp, high pressure bearing grease. been good for at least 100000k so far.
I now use inox mx8 guided by the Sharpe spindle greaser, which I think is a ripper idea. I have no affliation, but an ozzy who comes up with good ideas. mx8 is a rare one shot grease, but most would chime in to use moly grease for bearings.. Anyways, sharpe also makes a rear wheel lock nut for the wheel bearings, 3xfiner which poos all over the oem nut, which is a loose design and no wonder folks snap rear hub nuts when neglected, using the oem.

Not sure if rosco lubed his periodically for the moon and back.
If it is cactus, it is obvious. they are cheap in the grand scheme, can even get them off the shelf at a repco.
Very useful info, thank you.

My original cable was still working however the speedo needle would 'wag'.
I managed to get it to stop squealing with WD40 but it was still binding up and wagging.

$22 for a new Tora speedo cable and the problem is solved.
It came with some black greasy stuff on it, I will bite the bullet and lubricate it properly if/when I next have the dash apart.

on another note, I was surprised how difficult it was to find a correct beige ash tray (mine was missing).
Tracked down one in Ballarat but it wasn't easy.
Still need to try find 2 dark brown screw covers for the drivers side interior door handle, can only seem to find the later 1HZ light brown ones.
 
Very useful info, thank you.

My original cable was still working however the speedo needle would 'wag'.
I managed to get it to stop squealing with WD40 but it was still binding up and wagging.

$22 for a new Tora speedo cable and the problem is solved.
It came with some black greasy stuff on it, I will bite the bullet and lubricate it properly if/when I next have the dash apart.

on another note, I was surprised how difficult it was to find a correct beige ash tray (mine was missing).
Tracked down one in Ballarat but it wasn't easy.
Still need to try find 2 dark brown screw covers for the drivers side interior door handle, can only seem to find the later 1HZ light brown ones.
hah ash trays! first thing to be be pinched from any car, really rare at wreckers too. Second one was beige and I stained it black, should a swapped! I am not too fussy though, use a bicycle water bottle holder as my cup holder on the left under my tawny feathers.
1632990927946.png
 
hah ash trays! first thing to be be pinched from any car, really rare at wreckers too. Second one was beige and I stained it black, should a swapped! I am not too fussy though, use a bicycle water bottle holder as my cup holder on the left under my tawny feathers.
View attachment 2799850
I wonder why they are so rare, Toyota are asking $180 for a new ash tray! and they only come in black.

Very practical set up you have there, I like the genuine cassette player.
Here is mine it, it did Not look anything like this when I got it.

Out of curiosity, how do you go in Summer without an air con?
I wonder how I will go without an aircon this summer.

Screenshot_20210930-191216_2.png
 
sweat, windows down take the kids to the beach .
genuine cassette doesn't get used, should pull it one day. I get no reception or phone signal in the bush so I got the separate world radio which goes bluetooth to a jbl extreme , thumps near my head. Important things..jbl keeps charged from inverter behind passenger.

yours looks alright, I tend to pull the floor mat if any chance of condensation between rubber, felt and metal..I put epoxy resin and fibre glass rove like a tough canoe finish for all the steel floor deck, better than fibre glass resin, epoxy flexes and scuffs.
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