why did you have to run the exhaust outside the frame? Is your truck equipped with a pto winch?
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- Thread starter
- #62
Where about are you located? It involves a bit of fabrication which is done easiest on the vehicle, but if you're truly interested I can ship the current exhaust as it is. I do run a 1" body lift, and have modified sills. Not quit sure if it will fit a stock 60
Sent my a PM if your interested
I didn't want to go all the way back over the rear axle. Choosing for a side pipe meant I had to get on the other side of the chassis somewhere. Doing it anywhere else then in the inner fender would mean extra corners, and a more vulnerable route as it would stick out lower then it does now. I'll still be able to run approx 35" roughly measured.
- Thread starter
- #63
That will happen some day.. first an intercooler, followed by a Wink4x4 turbo. But there is no timeframe set yet
- Thread starter
- #64
Hi guys,
It's been a while, but I'm back with a new project!
The plan is to install a Air Compressor (originally from an 80 series, V-belt driven) on my PTO.
Why? because we can, and I just feld that I needed to give that PTO lever in the cabine a function.
I'll ad a 20Ltr tank with pressure relief valve. I'll probably use the PTO with transfercase in neutral, to fill tires, clean air filter and to get a camp fire going
64CC Compressor:
Air tank from a Belarus Tracktor
Original set-up with the PTO facing front. This way, I have no decent place for the compressor, so I had to get the flange facing backwards.....
It's been a while, but I'm back with a new project!
The plan is to install a Air Compressor (originally from an 80 series, V-belt driven) on my PTO.
Why? because we can, and I just feld that I needed to give that PTO lever in the cabine a function.
I'll ad a 20Ltr tank with pressure relief valve. I'll probably use the PTO with transfercase in neutral, to fill tires, clean air filter and to get a camp fire going
64CC Compressor:
Air tank from a Belarus Tracktor
Original set-up with the PTO facing front. This way, I have no decent place for the compressor, so I had to get the flange facing backwards.....
- Thread starter
- #65
Disassembly
It looked like an easy job. But..... when putting it back together it didn't fit.
It turns out that the set-up is slightly asymmetric. That meant that the back of the shaft was sticking out too far... I took it apart many, many times the past few days to get the details correct. Tried many things...
The setup that works:
I took a M27 washer, and machined the inner diameter equal to the original bush (teeth diameter). The washer is about 4mm thick.
I shortened the original bush approx 2mm. I used the ring to bring the gearwheel a bit further towards the middle, and had to shorten the bush since the total length of the set-up between the bearings would otherwise be too long .
Note: The washer in the pic is still with an inner diameter of the bearing. This didn't work, but I didn't take a pic with the final setup...
It looked like an easy job. But..... when putting it back together it didn't fit.
It turns out that the set-up is slightly asymmetric. That meant that the back of the shaft was sticking out too far... I took it apart many, many times the past few days to get the details correct. Tried many things...
The setup that works:
I took a M27 washer, and machined the inner diameter equal to the original bush (teeth diameter). The washer is about 4mm thick.
I shortened the original bush approx 2mm. I used the ring to bring the gearwheel a bit further towards the middle, and had to shorten the bush since the total length of the set-up between the bearings would otherwise be too long .
Note: The washer in the pic is still with an inner diameter of the bearing. This didn't work, but I didn't take a pic with the final setup...
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #66
Next problem:
Opposite to the original set-up, the bush was now pushing against the bearing without the outer circlip. Originally the gearwheel was pushing against the bearing, which has a wider diameter due to the teeth.
As you can see on the picture, the bush was gonna push against the seal of the bearing.
I decided to simulate the teeth from the gearwheel by putting a few tag-welds to the bush. Now the welds push against the inner steel part of the bearing.
There is a slight misalignment, but the expected torque of the air compressor will be very low, so no issues there.
Fitted back, and gave it a trial run. All good so far.
Next up will be installation of the tank on boltable brackets to the inner side of the chassis.
I plan to use an steering shaft from a 60 as drive shaft (part between steering wheel and steering house).
to be continued.
Opposite to the original set-up, the bush was now pushing against the bearing without the outer circlip. Originally the gearwheel was pushing against the bearing, which has a wider diameter due to the teeth.
As you can see on the picture, the bush was gonna push against the seal of the bearing.
I decided to simulate the teeth from the gearwheel by putting a few tag-welds to the bush. Now the welds push against the inner steel part of the bearing.
There is a slight misalignment, but the expected torque of the air compressor will be very low, so no issues there.
Fitted back, and gave it a trial run. All good so far.
Next up will be installation of the tank on boltable brackets to the inner side of the chassis.
I plan to use an steering shaft from a 60 as drive shaft (part between steering wheel and steering house).
to be continued.
Last edited:
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
nice fixing, I repair splitrims with a footpump and use a piece of cardboard for the fire: just tired of tech stuff breaking
