Hitch Pin Mod

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baja1d

baja1d

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Feb 19, 2010
Threads
115
Messages
657
Location
Littleton, CO
Website
www.outerlimitsupply.com
Spent about 3 hours last night searching every thread that had do with the hitch pin mod & never found a solid answer on weather or not this was a worth while mod. Every thread took me to another one and all of them stated that it had been discuss a ton. That is true that it has been discussed alot but none answered the questions of 1) if it was a good technique? & 2) what other damage maybe encountered by running off road with the pin pulled? Please either post the answer or direct me to the appropriate thread, my eyes are strained from starring at this damn computer screen!!!

Thanks in advance,
Travis

BTW: '94 80 if it matters
 
Done!!! Still would like to hear from anyone that can answer my questions. It'll be a week or two before we're back on the trail & there's time to put things back to stock.
 
Off road it will put more stress on the brackets. Drive hard enough and they may snap off.

The problem with running with a pin in there on road is that even a slight loosenses in the fitting will fatigue the metal over time, bumps and all the acceleration/braking forces.

For the occasional weekend off road it's a good way to get flex, but when back on the road reinstall the bolt rather then the pin if you do alot of miles on it.
 
x2 im alittle in the dark here so can you describe this mod your asking about.
 
I'm thinking he's referring to replacing one of the bolts connecting the rear sway bar with a clevis pin so you can easily disconnect the sway bar for more off-road articulation?
 
cletusbigger-M.gif


What is a Cletus pin?
 
Sorry for the confusion. It's basically replacing the bolt for your driver's side control arm with a "hitch pin". I'll let the pictures do the talking but just received this e-mail from another Mudder who has actually run this and does do a far amount of wheeling:

I did wear out a set of Slee's Blue castor bushings but I don't know if this was related to the extra flex. The tie rod does rub the control arms even though I ground them down a 1/4" where they rub. I have read it is a good idea to weld a tab on either side of the bracket for support right where the rear bolt behind the one removed for the hitch pin mod. Those are the only things I have noticed. Thanks VCCruzr
Hitch pin 1.webp
Hitch pin 2.webp
 
I take the bolt out every time I go on a weekend wheeling trip. I would recommend welding some bracing to the bracket and also welding some flanges around the front of the bracket. Reason for the flanges, when the bushing re-enters the bracket under different flexing conditions, it comes in from a bit of an angle. The bracket peeled one of the OME bushing sleeves out while I was on the trail (they are two piece). Believe it or not I actually found it and re-installed it. Afterwards I welded the "flanges" on and havn't had a problem since.

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akarilo said:
I take the bolt out every time I go on a weekend wheeling trip. I would recommend welding some bracing to the bracket and also welding some flanges around the front of the bracket. Reason for the flanges, when the bushing re-enters the bracket under different flexing conditions, it comes in from a bit of an angle. The bracket peeled one of the OME bushing sleeves out while I was on the trail (they are two piece). Believe it or not I actually found it and re-installed it. Afterwards I welded the "flanges" on and havn't had a problem since.



Click to expand...

That's what I'm talking about! Thanks for replying & including pictures.
 
So the tabs are angle outwards to guide the radius arm back in so you dont have the bushing catching on the edge of an unmodified bracket?

I remember a couple threads regarding this mod, it seems pretty simple to do, It me be easiest to just go and try it and report how it works.

Though, I would almost prefer to upsize the pin on the side you are leaving in place. Thats a lot of leverage on one bolt/bracket when in low gearing.
 
cody c said:
So the tabs are angle outwards to guide the radius arm back in so you dont have the bushing catching on the edge of an unmodified bracket?

I remember a couple threads regarding this mod, it seems pretty simple to do, It me be easiest to just go and try it and report how it works.

Though, I would almost prefer to upsize the pin on the side you are leaving in place. Thats a lot of leverage on one bolt/bracket when in low gearing.
Click to expand...

X2...Also wouldn't it put some strain on the u-joints with the axle rotating forward & backwards? Also,IIRC there was a write up done on another topic but using a pin instead of a bolt and the point was made that the bolt exerts a lateral clamping force that preserves the hole and prevents it from growing larger with wear.
 
Quick question, do I only pull the d/s or should I install a pin on passenger front as well. In other words, pull the front two pins when off roading?
 
baja1d said:
Quick question, do I only pull the d/s or should I install a pin on passenger front as well. In other words, pull the front two pins when off roading?
Click to expand...

hahaha, no, just one pin unless you want to fix just about everything on the axle.
 
FastCarGuy said:
X2...Also wouldn't it put some strain on the u-joints with the axle rotating forward & backwards? Also,IIRC there was a write up done on another topic but using a pin instead of a bolt and the point was made that the bolt exerts a lateral clamping force that preserves the hole and prevents it from growing larger with wear.
Click to expand...

it shouldnt really put more stain on the u joints under normal driving and most off roading.

When the axle moves downwards on one side, and upwards on the other, the radius arms are at different angles, which will compress all the bushings.

Basically think of the axle off the truck and someone lifting on one radius arm, and someone pushing down on the other. In order for the radius arms to move the bushings need to change shape (be compressed by the bolt through them).

So... regarding the u-joints, if the lower side of the axle has the bolt in it, then the axle has rotated slightly more forward with the other side bolt removed, causing more angle out of the u-joint. If the side of the axle with the bolt is at the bumpstops, then there is less rotation of the axle (straighter u joint angle).

Short answer is: kind of. :meh:
 
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