High beam indicator light dashboard not working

[Rogerr]

Hi gang,

Wire RY on the wire connection to the dashboard has power, see picture
High beam lights working in both handle positions
Dashboard high beam Light itself is not stuck
If I put power on that wire the high beam light is working, not the high beam light indicator

Dashboard lights are working
Turn lights are working

Why is the high beam indicator light not working?
Where to look next?

 

[numby]

Contacts for bulb are corroded or dirty? Broken trace inisde combination meter?
You must disassemble.

 

[Rogerr]

Contacts for bulb are corroded or dirty? Broken trace inisde combination meter?
You must disassemble.

not sure
dashboard is new

 

[aztoyman]

I had that happen after installing the factory Toyota Koito H4 headlight upgrade kit, but it was on my mini truck. So not sure it happens with a 40? Just throwing it out there.

 

[Rogerr]

I had that happen after installing the factory Toyota Koito H4 headlight upgrade kit, but it was on my mini truck. So not sure it happens with a 40? Just throwing it out there.

PO did do some working arounds including tinkering and fiddeling
electric level is not how I would like to see/have it.

As the dashboard is new
All the other lights are working
Some grounding issue?

How did you solve this problem?

 

[aztoyman]

I ended up looking at the schematic for my truck and found a way to cut the wire to the high beam indicator and connect it elsewhere. It had something to do with the kit plugging into just one of the headlight plugs to run the relays. Sorry, I don't remember the details.

After I did that, I saw a post in the 40 section where they were talking about a plug in solution that one of the venders sell for this exact problem on the 40's.

 

[nabbasi]

Does the RY to the cluster have power only when the high beams are on? The socket on my old cluster was not grounded well. Once I cleaned that up it was fine.

If it’s got 12V+ when the high beam is on, the only missing piece is the ground.

 

[numby]

If the round black connector is part of the original wiring loom it may have problems. The internal brass connector may have corroded or seperated from the RY (rood/geel) wire.

Here's the link to a replacement...

FJ40, Toyota Black Round Barrel Connector & Terminals

 

[Rogerr]

Does the RY to the cluster have power only when the high beams are on? The socket on my old cluster was not grounded well. Once I cleaned that up it was fine.

If it’s got 12V+ when the high beam is on, the only missing piece is the ground.

RY wire has power with high beam, so grounding is then the next check.
When I put power on RY high beam is on, but not the indicator

 

[JohnnyC]

I did not see you say this…. But… did you check the bulb? Even new bulbs go bad… more so from china

Easy check … just switch bulb from the other location to see if it lights

 

[Rogerr]

I did not see you say this…. But… did you check the bulb? Even new bulbs go bad… more so from china

Easy check … just switch bulb from the other location to see if it lights

did check and ok

 

[JohnnyC]

if the red/yellow wire has power then its a ground issue for it... is the cluster installed? IE grounded?

never really checked if you would need it grounded for the light to work or not... but... maybe?

check with volt/ohm meter at the light contacts ... see if power is actually getting to the light socket and see if it has ground

 

[Rogerr]

Next question:
I found the red wire, it was cut of in the harnass

How now to find the connection between red wire and the HF connection?
What is the wire color from the HF connection?

 

[nabbasi]

Could you remind us what model/ year this is?

The red (R) wire runs from your fuse panel to the dimmer switch (providing your 12V+).

RW is the signal from the dimmer switch (selecting high or low beam). RG and RY are low and high beam out to the lights, respectively.

B, HF, Hi/ Lo/ Hi are terminals inside the switch.

 

[Rogerr]

Could you remind us what model/ year this is?

The red (R) wire runs from your fuse panel to the dimmer switch (providing your 12V+).

RW is the signal from the dimmer switch (selecting high or low beam). RG and RY are low and high beam out to the lights, respectively.

B, HF, Hi/ Lo/ Hi are terminals inside the switch.

its a 24V 1977 BJ40

 

[Rogerr]

Could you remind us what model/ year this is?

The red (R) wire runs from your fuse panel to the dimmer switch (providing your 12V+).

RW is the signal from the dimmer switch (selecting high or low beam). RG and RY are low and high beam out to the lights, respectively.

B, HF, Hi/ Lo/ Hi are terminals inside the switch.

Yes indeed
with the RW wire I have high beam, pushing the handle to the dasboard
And no flash light, pushing the handle to the steering wheel
on both no blue indicator light
So how is the connection made with the R wire and the HF/dimmer switch then (as this R wire was cut of in the harnas)?

 

[Engineer8000]

Could you show a picture of all the connections on the rear of your cluster?

 

[Rogerr]

Could you show a picture of all the connections on the rear of your cluster?

Hi,

is this what you need?
so:
there are 3 red colored wires in the handle
RW=high beam in combination with Main light connected to RG
R= flash connected to Red/Blue? and leaving as RY for flash

My thought is that the red wire needs to go to the Red/Blue wire (only left over) see handle picture with circle
As in the scheme the red wire is connected with the HF part in the handle

 

[Engineer8000]

The 3rd photo, this looks like a newer, maybe aftermarket cluster? Like this?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Examine your high beam bulb holder carefully. The bulb needs clean contacts in the holder and the contacts on the holder need to work with/on the instrument panel. All can easily be bent or surface corroded or the copper plate damaged.