Hi Lift Jack- what size to get
- Thread starter JTinAZ
- Start date
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I'm SOA with 35s and use a 48" with no probs. In fact I had my rig wedged between a boulder and a high bank a while back and was able to free my rig with my hi-lift and a slight tug from my winch. Learned a few lessons that day. First was the value of the ol' hi-lift. Second was about wheelin' by myself (Yeah, I know better but I was REALLY pissed off at the ol'lady and... ). The 60" might be a bit tough to fit in the rig too.
Hi Lift
I have used a 48" hi-lift with my 'Cruiser for 15 years. With lifts from 2" to 5", tires from 31" to 35", and it always has allowed me enough lift to change a tire or to pitch rocks under a tire.
It gets darn wobbly near the top of the available travel, and I think you would need a steadying hand or two if you wished to use the longer stroke capability of the 60" jack.
However, if I had a steadying hand, and I usually do, I could have saved a lot of time on some of the rock pitching episodes by using a longer jack. I had to do it in two phases, and use a rock under the jack to get the second phase of rocks under the tire. So if you were able to safely mount a 60" jack, and the extra weight/size doesn't cause you an issue, I don't see any other issues with the longer jack, beyond a few extra $.
What I have intended to do, instead of getting a longer jack, is to rig up some sort of 'temporary limiting strap' that would keep the suspension from extending as I jack up a flat tire. I think this would eliminate a lot of the wobble and make it a little safer to swap out a flat tire.
HTH
I have used a 48" hi-lift with my 'Cruiser for 15 years. With lifts from 2" to 5", tires from 31" to 35", and it always has allowed me enough lift to change a tire or to pitch rocks under a tire.
It gets darn wobbly near the top of the available travel, and I think you would need a steadying hand or two if you wished to use the longer stroke capability of the 60" jack.
However, if I had a steadying hand, and I usually do, I could have saved a lot of time on some of the rock pitching episodes by using a longer jack. I had to do it in two phases, and use a rock under the jack to get the second phase of rocks under the tire. So if you were able to safely mount a 60" jack, and the extra weight/size doesn't cause you an issue, I don't see any other issues with the longer jack, beyond a few extra $.
What I have intended to do, instead of getting a longer jack, is to rig up some sort of 'temporary limiting strap' that would keep the suspension from extending as I jack up a flat tire. I think this would eliminate a lot of the wobble and make it a little safer to swap out a flat tire.
HTH
though the 48 will work almost all the time, i have been in need of my 60 a couple times in funny situations off road. if you can store it get the 60.
The limit strap works real good. We use it on a truck that I crew, the limit strap un-clips and you re-clip it higher on the frame. The truck only needs to come up a few inches clean safe set up.
Phil
Phil
My 48" jack won't get my back tires off the ground after my mods. I'll be going to the 60" once I have the money. I will also be welding chain hooks on my frame and my axle housing so I can put a chain between them to limit my drop. Think it will also help with extractions I believe.
Thanks, Chris
Thanks, Chris
I have the same setup and have no problems with my 48. The 48 mounts to the front bumper well. FYI I got my 48 at Tractor Supply for $25 if you have one near you.
You can also throw a rachet strap around the axle too limit droop. Go with the 48".
I like the 60. Storage can be a problem. Mine is roof rack mounted. For most situations
the 48 is perfectly fine. Beware cheap imitators of the high lift. They are some real cheezy
knock offs out there.
the 48 is perfectly fine. Beware cheap imitators of the high lift. They are some real cheezy
knock offs out there.
Anything bigger than 48" is too big to haul aroud in a '40
