Hi Beam Trigger Point - need help 2010 LX/LC (2 Viewers)

[LXinOBX]

Hey all...posting this in a new thread as I am at wits end (getting old ain't for sissys) and really flustered....hope someone can help.

Use case: Toggle lightbar on '10 LX570 (DRL enabled) via hi beam stalk, all else OE. Truck lighting config is such that DRLs (fuse #55 for example) will trigger the relay coil (lightbar would be on ALL the time) so I need JUST the hi beam ground. Using only a cabin switch for the lightbar is just not practical/safe.

Thanks to @marques write up the coil side of the relay is to be connected to the lo beam 12V (the easy part)..... the "other side" of the coil would be connected to the hi beam switched ground.

Identifying "where" I tap the hi beam switched ground point is the ask for help. Where physically does one tap? What wire?

Alternatively, is there a "place" to tap the hi beam stalk itself?

Yeah, I know I could disable the DRLs and just use the fuse out, but I like the "safety" of the DRL's.

Many thanks!

 

[marques]

Hey all...posting this in a new thread as I am at wits end (getting old ain't for sissys) and really flustered....hope someone can help.

Use case: Toggle lightbar on '10 LX570 (DRL enabled) via hi beam stalk, all else OE. Truck lighting config is such that DRLs (fuse #55 for example) will trigger the relay coil (lightbar would be on ALL the time) so I need JUST the hi beam ground. Using only a cabin switch for the lightbar is just not practical/safe.

Thanks to @marques write up the coil side of the relay is to be connected to the lo beam 12V (the easy part)..... the "other side" of the coil would be connected to the hi beam switched ground.

Identifying "where" I tap the hi beam switched ground point is the ask for help. Where physically does one tap? What wire?

Alternatively, is there a "place" to tap the hi beam stalk itself?

Yeah, I know I could disable the DRLs and just use the fuse out, but I like the "safety" of the DRL's.

Many thanks!

In this schematic, we're talking about pin 1 on the high beam relay. It would be under the relay itself. This wire doesn't go out to the headlamps, but rather to the main body ECU.

 

[staggrlee]

Couldn't you use a current-monitoring relay (as opposed to voltage-monitoring) to trigger your lightbar to be on only when hi-beams are? The circuit just under drives the hi-beam bulbs for DRLs. Would just need the trigger threshold to be higher than DRL current draw.

 

[LXinOBX]

In this schematic, we're talking about pin 1 on the high beam relay. It would be under the relay itself. This wire doesn't go out to the headlamps, but rather to the main body ECU.
View attachment 3561598

Many thanks, really appreciate the assist - no worries that pin one is "internal' and feeds the ECU? This is how you wired your aux lamp(s) correct? I get "sweaty" just thinking about anything with ECU in the same sentence!

 

[LXinOBX]

Couldn't you use a current-monitoring relay (as opposed to voltage-monitoring) to trigger your lightbar to be on only when hi-beams are? The circuit just under drives the hi-beam bulbs for DRLs. Would just need the trigger threshold to be higher than DRL current draw.

Interesting - I've never heard of a current monitoring relay. Doing some homework now.

Thank you.

 

[TeCKis300]

Perhaps another possible option as I debated doing some of this.

Disable the DRL (by removing the DRL resister in engine bay near passenger side fender). This will allow you to do what you want with a simple relay without the light bar on all the time. The secondary advantage is you'll be able to retrofit high power LED high beam bulbs without concern that they will be on when underdriven as DRLs.

Modify the fogs to function independently, and can use them as DRLs. More info here

Switch Panel / Switchpros Install Underhood Tap Points

Lots of people have installed these but I couldn't find a good reference as to where to tap for various things underhood. Here's my attempt to document some of the more common taps and triggers. Including a much wanted stock fog light override function. I'm using a 1/4" gland fitting to route...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[LXinOBX]

Perhaps another possible option as I debated doing some of this.

Disable the DRL (by removing the DRL resister in engine bay near passenger side fender). This will allow you to do what you want with a simple relay without the light bar on all the time. The secondary advantage is you'll be able to retrofit high power LED high beam bulbs without concern that they will be on when underdriven as DRLs.

Modify the fogs to function independently, and can use them as DRLs. More info here

Switch Panel / Switchpros Install Underhood Tap Points

Lots of people have installed these but I couldn't find a good reference as to where to tap for various things underhood. Here's my attempt to document some of the more common taps and triggers. Including a much wanted stock fog light override function. I'm using a 1/4" gland fitting to route...

forum.ih8mud.com

Many thanks! Yes, I could disable the DRLs (actually can do it through the config menu within the Head/Nav system)...I just want (weird, I know ) the DRLs operative. LEDs (vs HIDs) for anything Toyota just seem wonky in that I read of so many failures - correction, my reversing LED bulb still works

Igniting the lightbar via hi beam stalk activation just seems so easy (faster/safer) in operation versus stalk + bar switch.

Connecting to the high beam relay (as described by Marques) seems to be the way to go - it's just the ECU interface that gives me pause :/ Hoping someone else chimes in with a "yep, that's what I did and flawless operation for years"

 

[LXinOBX]

Stedi WIRQKFT-SMART

Anyone have any experience with this? Supposedly universal in application?

Dual Connector Plug & Play SMART Harness™ High Beam Driving Light Wiring

STEDI™ Universal Quick Fit SMART Harness™ - High Beam triggered.

www.stediusa.com

 

[LXinOBX]

Stedi WIRQKFT-SMART

Anyone have any experience with this? Supposedly universal in application?

Dual Connector Plug & Play SMART Harness™ High Beam Driving Light Wiring

STEDI™ Universal Quick Fit SMART Harness™ - High Beam triggered.

www.stediusa.com

Just one last bump before "retreating" and just triggering off the hi beams and "turning off" the DRL's

In talking w the Stedi folks (great support) it appears that Stedi harness listed above may (or may not) address the DRL use case (having them operate as OE). But for anyone wanting "close" to plug n play, they are a solid option.

 

[LXinOBX]

UPDATE - wanted to close the loop with the somewhat surprising outcome of my lightbar install. I pulled +12v directly from the HB3/9005 connector - right at the HB3 connector. I ran the other side of the coil to an illuminated switch, circuit then terminating at ground in driverside kick panel. It appears that the DRL voltage is not enough to trigger the coil.

So, net /net:

1) switch off - everything functions as normal
2) switch on - everything functions as normal EXCEPT light bar toggles w hi beams. The switch illuminates the foot well area as a reminder (like you need to be ) the light bar is engaged

Now, if I could only find a switch to replace the "blank" (it's where a heated steering wheel would normally go).

 

[lx200inAR]

UPDATE - wanted to close the loop with the somewhat surprising outcome of my lightbar install. I pulled +12v directly from the HB3/9005 connector - right at the HB3 connector. I ran the other side of the coil to an illuminated switch, circuit then terminating at ground in driverside kick panel. It appears that the DRL voltage is not enough to trigger the coil.

So, net /net:

1) switch off - everything functions as normal
2) switch on - everything functions as normal EXCEPT light bar toggles w hi beams. The switch illuminates the foot well area as a reminder (like you need to be ) the light bar is engaged

Now, if I could only find a switch to replace the "blank" (it's where a heated steering wheel would normally go).

Nice find.

This is just spitballing (technical term for doing no research and having no idea how the switch works, knowing that Toyota uses a lot of different ways to implement switches). But maybe order the earlier switch with the inverter switch or the later switch with the steering wheel warmer and repurpose the switch output. It's possible that switch is only momentary and may not be able to be used in that fashion. I suspect the connectors are the same between all the switches, probably just need to add a pin to the OEM harness (assuming it's not already there).

 

[LXinOBX]

Re "dash switch" I'm wondering if the "faux" switch (left most in the switches above the coin box) can be drilled out to accommodate something like one of these:

https://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/indicators/hbindicators.pdf

 

[lx200inAR]

Re "dash switch" I'm wondering if the "faux" switch (left most in the switches above the coin box) can be drilled out to accommodate something like one of these:

https://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/indicators/hbindicators.pdf

I suspect there is a circuit board parallel with the switch behind it. You probably won't have enough clearance to install something with that depth. But also, it looks like it comes apart, so maybe more investigation could be done.