HFC-152a trial as possible R12 substitute. (1 Viewer)

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Didn't see anything about this, so figured I'd post up. I have a 84 R12 system that over the years has had R12, and envirosafe as the cooling fluids in the last 10 years. This last year I dug the truck out of the back 40 and discovered it was cooling poorly. Go to look, and can't find a vendor for my envirosafe. Crap.

Went poking around, and found a discussion on YT of all places on charging R12 systems with HFC-152a. This is the propellant used in "dust off" cans and is considered envornmentally safe and approved by the powers that be for use as canned cair. Decided to give it a try. Sounded great on reading - lower head pressure, less fluid needed compared to R12, and I went and sourced my parts.

I ordered ultra duster cans (Amazon) and since a full charge on my rig is *supposed* to be about 28oz (YMMV - big threads exist on what the actual numbers are) with 1/3 to 1/2 needed per the discussions about using 152a, figured I'd need 2 10oz cans with some left over. Bought a 6 pack since I do actually use them to blow dust out of computer chassis. Cost was reasonable - think around 4 dollars a can, equal to about 2 cans of R12 (street price of about $100.00 locally)

Have a side-tap for cans that works with R12 and R134, and its almost perfect for the ulta dust can. More on that later. Went to a buddys house who has a vacuum pump and drew down to zero. I *know* my system has a slow leak, but didn't want to leave any moisture in there. I live in AZ so moisture is not usually a big problem, but best practices. Vacuum done, hooked up the can tap to the yellow hose and put the can into the tap.

Side-tap was mostly effective - will need to make a 2 to 3 mm spacer to wrap around to provide a perfect seal, but worked well enough. Had a little bit of gas escape as the seal was not crushed 100 percent. Ended up charging by effect - when air temp coming out the vents was decidedly cold, and pressure was 30 on the low side gauge, we stopped. Had some residual propellant in the 2nd can. Figure with the not quite perfect seal and residual my charge was between 10 to 14oz which is somewhere between my 1/3 to 1/2 total R12 charge amount.

Air temp outside was 100 plus (arizona, remember) and without using a temp gauge in the vents (not handy) got the inside of the cab quite cold in about 5 minutes of recirculate. Even with a fresh charge of R12, it never worked as well.

This was almost 2 weeks ago, and I have been using the truck and testing the AC on the various hot days to see how its going. Load on the engine is much less, noise from the compressor is reduced, and its still blowing cold. By comparison my girlfriends 2017 Renegade with the new toxic refrigerant takes about 10 minutes of driving to reduce cabin temp in our current heat wave. LC will do it sitting at a high idle.

So far impressed. Any for the inevitable discussion - yes, I know its not R12. Yes, I know its not a current EPA approved solution. I'm also not an AC tech, its my own damn vehicle, and I don't let anyone else touch it but me. If you try this, it may blow up your AC. You may get the heartbreak of scrofula, it may make baby deer and whales cry. I don't care, and take no responsibility - hopefully anyone wanting to experiment with this is enough of an adult to research the danger/rewards for themselves.

Just to note - I believe that the EPA is looking at HFC-152a as a possible *future* automotive AC coolant.....wouldn't that be something if it gets approved, eh?

Cheers,

Glenn in Marana
 
That's really interesting! It shouldn't harm anything ,as long as there's sufficient oil in the system.
If the system is flushed first, a universal refrigerant oil should suffice for the HFC-152a.

**note** The old mineral oil is apparently not compatible with HFC-152a. POE or universal oil should be ok.
If you are not flushing the system, Adding a bit of POE or uni oil and a new rec-drier would be good idea.
 
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Interesting fix.. I hope it works out.

FYI, R12 is still available. Yes it costs more, but it cools so so well Ask me how I know:
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I'm using Duracool 12a in my system and so far am impressed with it. Problem I'm having though (not related to the refrigerant) is I can't have A/C on and my fan at 100% for more than 5 minutes or my circuit breaker (both the original and an new OEM replacement) pops. I'm still trying to find a fix for this since, even with both fans on full and A/C on, only 14 amps is being pulled through the breakers circuit.

Because of having to limit the fan speed to 75%, I'm not getting a reliable temperature reading from the vents when I service the system.
 
I'm using Duracool 12a in my system and so far am impressed with it. Problem I'm having though (not related to the refrigerant) is I can't have A/C on and my fan at 100% for more than 5 minutes or my circuit breaker (both the original and an new OEM replacement) pops. I'm still trying to find a fix for this since, even with both fans on full and A/C on, only 14 amps is being pulled through the breakers circuit.

Because of having to limit the fan speed to 75%, I'm not getting a reliable temperature reading from the vents when I service the system.
Might be worth pulling the interior blower fan motor and using electrical contact cleaner on the coils and such to get rid of accumulated crud/gerdue . Could also see if its possible to clean and re-grease the bearings. Might be just trying to draw more amps due to worn bearings or worn carbons.

If you can find an old school electrical repair shop that does motoros/generators/alternators they can test and see if its working within rating specs. Bring them the unit out of the rig and let them put it on the bench and see what they saw. If you're lucky and it is needing some work, they might be able to rebuild it.

Otherwise if you can find someone local who is parting out and can get a good price swapping the fan unit would at least help ya narrow down whats causing it if steps 1 and 2 don't show any improvement. Dunno if they changed the fan blower between 60 and 62, hopefully someone can chime in so you don't go down a rabbit hole and end up with a spare you can't actually use. :)

$02

Glenn in Marana
 
Might be worth pulling the interior blower fan motor and using electrical contact cleaner on the coils and such to get rid of accumulated crud/gerdue . Could also see if its possible to clean and re-grease the bearings. Might be just trying to draw more amps due to worn bearings or worn carbons.

If you can find an old school electrical repair shop that does motoros/generators/alternators they can test and see if its working within rating specs. Bring them the unit out of the rig and let them put it on the bench and see what they saw. If you're lucky and it is needing some work, they might be able to rebuild it.

Otherwise if you can find someone local who is parting out and can get a good price swapping the fan unit would at least help ya narrow down whats causing it if steps 1 and 2 don't show any improvement. Dunno if they changed the fan blower between 60 and 62, hopefully someone can chime in so you don't go down a rabbit hole and end up with a spare you can't actually use. :)

$02

Glenn in Marana
It's a brand new VDO blower motor. The one I changed out was getting pretty worn (WAY sooner than an OEM motor too, which sadly aren't available new anymore), but it's still making the breaker pop, thoguh only when at full power. I've gone through the circuit and changed out all the individual components save for the fan relay and the actual fan switch. I have a couple more things I want to try, but I'll detail those in the fan breaker thread once I try them.
 

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