Help with my front leaf springs. (76 FJ40) (1 Viewer)

[SMG]

The 'trough' is just a stiffener; it sits perpendicular to the spring when installed.

Mark,

That's what I was thinking, but I didn't want to assume anything.

Thanks

 

[SMG]

I finished going through the front springs and got the axle back in with the military wrap and upper leaf flipped 180.

I'm really happy with the results. The steering link to the pitman arm is almost parallel. Once I redo the Saginaw gear box mount I should be able to get it perfectly inline with the axle.

(Mark, thanks for encouraging me to dig into all of this).

A rough castor measurement is showing between 3 and 3.6 degrees. This should be good since I plan on running 35" tires

I changed the small center pin to a 3/8" Allen socket head along with new beefier stainless steel U-bolt skids.

Obviously I still need to relocate the bump stop.

Tomorrow I will be picking up a pair of Ford shock towers.

New wheelbase = 93"

Thanks for everyone's help.

Here's how she sits now.

 

[71FJnick]

Did you end up using the spacers between the springs?
If so, can you post some close up photos?

 

[White Stripe]

Wow that looks really good man! Now you just need to do the same to the rear lol! No but seriously you should it would look great in the back too. What are you running for steering knuckle arms? Are those fj60? Also, why do you have a bolt in your axle breather hole? For debris?

 

[SMG]

Did you end up using the spacers between the springs?
If so, can you post some close up photos?

No, I didn't. This may be something I might revist sometime down the road.
After I sanded and repainted each leaf I then applied a couple of coats of dry graphite lube and then a skim coat of anti-seize.

I am amazed how well they move/flex now that they are all lubed up.....A night and day difference.

 

[SMG]

Wow that looks really good man! Now you just need to do the same to the rear lol! No but seriously you should it would look great in the back too. What are you running for steering knuckle arms? Are those fj60? Also, why do you have a bolt in your axle breather hole? For debris?

LOL, I was thinking the same thing about the rear!!

I've yet to do my Knuckle conversion. I am in the process of gathering all the parts. I have a set of All-Pro hi-steer arms waiting to go on.
As far as the bolt in the axle breather hole? Heck, I'm not sure..... I wondered that as well. It's only hand tight so it must have been for debris. I will be adding some breathers to my list.

Thanks

 

[White Stripe]

LOL, I was thinking the same thing about the rear!!
I've yet to do my Knuckle conversion. I am in the process of gathering all the parts. I have a set of All-Pro hi-steer arms waiting to go on.
As far as the bolt in the axle breather hole? Heck, I'm not sure..... I wondered that as well. It's only hand tight so it must have been for debris. I will be adding some breathers to my list.

Thanks

Oh ok. Yeah thats where the breather is supposed to go, if you don't have a breather it will make your inner axle seals leak if you run it that way. Instead of a stock breather though, I would install a nipple, then connect a hose to that and run that somewhere up high. If you just put a stock breather in, if you ever go through water that is over the axle housing deep, it will fill your axle with water. Maybe you knew that already, if so ignore said comment. Also trail gear makes breather "bellows" I think they are called, would probably be the easiest route. If pressure builds up it just expands and then you don't have to route a hose.

 

[sggoat]

I finished going through the front springs and got the axle back in with the military wrap and upper leaf flipped 180.

I'm really happy with the results. The steering link to the pitman arm is almost parallel. Once I redo the Saginaw gear box mount I should be able to get it perfectly inline with the axle.

(Mark, thanks for encouraging me to dig into all of this).

A rough castor measurement is showing between 3 and 3.6 degrees. This should be good since I plan on running 35" tires

I changed the small center pin to a 3/8" Allen socket head along with new beefier stainless steel U-bolt skids.

Obviously I still need to relocate the bump stop.

Tomorrow I will be picking up a pair of Ford shock towers.

New wheelbase = 93"

Thanks for everyone's help.

Here's how she sits now.
View attachment 1377665
View attachment 1377666
View attachment 1377667
View attachment 1377668

not sure I would want to use the stainless plates here(no matter what grade) Stainless has only 1/3 the shear strength of alloy steels, plus it has a really bad habit of exhibiting stress corrosion cracking

 

[SMG]

not sure I would want to use the stainless plates here(no matter what grade) Stainless has only 1/3 the shear strength of alloy steels, plus it has a really bad habit of exhibiting stress corrosion cracking

sggoat, thanks for your input

I thought about this as well, unfortunately it was the only 3/8" plate I had laying around the shop.

I understand the shear strength is not as much but in reality the way these are being used I don't see how any shear forces would be a problem. IMO, these see more of a clamping force then shear force. Maybe I'm wrong, but these skids are stout/overkill for what I will be using this truck for.

It will be something to keep my eye on.

Thanks

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Informative thread here. I have the same shackle reversal kit or at least very similar. My rear shackle is laid back so far that the spring hits the frame upon compression. All done by some previous owner. So it looks like 1)my front spring is too long, or 2) the shackle is too short, or 3) they did not drill the hole for the rear shackle far enough to the rear. I would suspect 1 or 3 as the shackle came with the kit. I have a shackle that is slightly longer but my best bet may be to go to the spring shop and have a new upper leaf made that is an inch or so shorter.

 

[65swb45]

Informative thread here. I have the same shackle reversal kit or at least very similar. My rear shackle is laid back so far that the spring hits the frame upon compression. All done by some previous owner. So it looks like 1)my front spring is too long, or 2) the shackle is too short, or 3) they did not drill the hole for the rear shackle far enough to the rear. I would suspect 1 or 3 as the shackle came with the kit. I have a shackle that is slightly longer but my best bet may be to go to the spring shop and have a new upper leaf made that is an inch or so shorter.View attachment 1377919 View attachment 1377920 View attachment 1377921 View attachment 1377922

32 years in the addiction and I have NEVER seen that! Those must be some CCOChina springs! Rear spring eye is upside down! WTF?

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

32 years in the addiction and I have NEVER seen that! Those must be some CCOChina springs! Rear spring eye is upside down! WTF?

@65swb45 So I have the military wrap on the front fixed position. The shackle end does have the curl over the shackle pin bushings. You say this end should go under the pin? That is how the rear springs are, both under the pin. So I should get a new upper leaf made? I don't think that will solve the spring hitting the frame upon compression if eye to eye distance is the same. Shortening the upper leaf just a tad on the back half if I get a new leaf made would solve that problem but too much could cause a shackle inversion if that particular wheel is completely unloaded. All in all the rig rides and steers real nice. Apologies to @SMG for a temporary thread hijack. We have a good spring shop here in Tucson.

 

[SMG]

Informative thread here. I have the same shackle reversal kit or at least very similar. My rear shackle is laid back so far that the spring hits the frame upon compression. All done by some previous owner. So it looks like 1)my front spring is too long, or 2) the shackle is too short, or 3) they did not drill the hole for the rear shackle far enough to the rear. I would suspect 1 or 3 as the shackle came with the kit. I have a shackle that is slightly longer but my best bet may be to go to the spring shop and have a new upper leaf made that is an inch or so shorter.View attachment 1377919 View attachment 1377920 View attachment 1377921 View attachment 1377922

Hmmm, that is weird. I hate to say it, but you might be in the market for some new springs and shackles. I'm no expert but it looks as if you definitely need a little longer shackles.

My front hanger is just a stock one that's been put to the front of the extended frame horns.
I believe you have an aftermarket front hanger.

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Hmmm, that is weird. I hate to say it, but you might be in the market for some new springs and shackles. I'm no expert but it looks as if you definitely need a little longer shackles.

My front hanger is just a stock one that's been put to the front of the extended frame horns.
I believe you have an aftermarket front hanger.

Yes, I see now that you used the rear on the front. I could drive over to the spring shop and tell them what I want and they would build to order.

 

[SMG]

It looks as if that top leaf is upside down. Maybe whoever made the springs arced them in the wrong direction.

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Maybe I'll throw these in today for temporary solution. Should be a negligible change to caster and pinion angles. As for your wheelbase posts earlier in this thread, mine sits almost exactly at 90 inches.

 

[SMG]

Maybe I'll throw these in today for temporary solution. Should be a negligible change to caster and pinion angles. As for your wheelbase posts earlier in this thread, mine sits almost exactly at 90 inches. View attachment 1377948

Ya, that's a little better, too much and you'll have to start checking your castor angle.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

32 years in the addiction and I have NEVER seen that! Those must be some CCOChina springs! Rear spring eye is upside down! WTF?

Common in the recent Ford/Chevy world. Maybe it's springs off a domestic? I'd guess Ford based on width.

Measure the width of the spring. Almost every Cruiser spring is 2 3/4, Chevy is 2 1/2, Ford pick ups are 3+ I think.

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Ya, that's a little better, too much and you'll have to start checking your castor angle.

Yes, Blanca steers great right now without any spring shims.

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Common in the recent Ford/Chevy world. Maybe it's springs off a domestic? I'd guess Ford based on width.

God only knows where they came from. I have had this since 2009 and it came with them on.