Help with High Beam wire for wiring Hella Lights. (1 Viewer)

[PKP80]

My meter seems to be broken, so having trouble finding the high beam wire/lead to tap into for my setup. No luck with a search or in the FSM. Is it the red/yellow, or red/blue wire going into the headlamp?

Also have any of you drawn the high beam lead from the dash instead of at the headlight? where and how?

Lastly, would it be Okay to wire all six light leads to one location and tap into the high beam?

I know a slee harness would be best, but I don't have one, eventually will.

Thanks in advance.

Sam

 

[Beowulf]

Lastly, would it be Okay to wire all six light leads to one location and tap into the high beam?

Sam,
That is a lot of current for the stock wiring harness. Does the Hella have a relay based harness? If yes, then you can trigger the relay using the high beam circuit. If your Hella lights don't have a harness then you need to reconsider tapping 6 lights into the stock wiring as this could create a dangerous overload.

-B-

 

[Tuner]

The Hellas I have came with a HD relay. I tried the same thing on my 96. According to my meter, both hi beam wires are hot when the low beams are on. When the hi beams go on, the red/blue stays hot and the other becomes a ground.

Unless you use the red/yellow as a ground for your relay (just a thought, not tried, not traced out and possibly dangerous), I'm not sure how to tie the relay to the hi beams. I'm using the relay and a dash switch.

Stock wiring will not support hi beams plus 6 Hellas for long...if at all.

 

[Biff]

Sam,

Why not connect the hellas directly to a power source. I have my IPF's connected directly to my battery and whenever I need them I just hit the switch.

 

[PKP80]

Sorry to leave info out....the lights:

All six come with Hella RElays

So 1 relay to each pair.

I wouldn't mind not having to go to the high beam line if I don't need to, but the instructions state that I need tap into the high beam lead.

Light are pretty much out of the box.

Sam

 

[Biff]

I wouldn't mind not having to go to the high beam line if I don't need to, but the instructions state that I need tap into the high beam lead.


Sam

Well if you want to go based on the instructions thats another story.

 

[PKP80]

Well if you want to go based on the instructions thats another story.

I'm not a light guy in anyway....you saying that the high beam lead is not required to run the lights? then its purpose, sir Biff

I'd ditch that wire if it's not needed.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

You will still need to hook the wire up, you just don't need to hook it up where it says you do in the instructions. Just hook it up to a switch on your dash.

 

[PKP80]

You will still need to hook the wire up, you just don't need to hook it up where it says you do in the instructions. Just hook it up to a switch on your dash.

would the cig. lighter work?

 

[Biff]

would the cig. lighter work?

That would work. The dimmer switch is also a good place.

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

If you want to be able to leave them on w/ the truck off, then you want to run that wire to an unswitched(meaning not switched by the ignition, you will want a switch to turn them on and off) constant "hot." You could do this by running a wire from the battery, to a fuse, to the switch, to the wire in question. Then the lights will be completely under your control, ignition on or off, headlights on or off. If you want them to cut off w/ the truck, then wire the relay trip wire(the wire you're talking about) into a switched source(such as the cig-lighter). Basically, when the wire in question gets power, the lights will be able to function. If it doesn't have power, they will not be able to function.

That clear as mud?

 

[skyshark186]

Or you could tap em into the low beams and split your current even when they are off. Works great at making both much dimmer.

Running straight to power/straight to switch is much more effective.

 

[dclee]

I'm not a light guy in anyway....you saying that the high beam lead is not required to run the lights? then its purpose, sir Biff

I'd ditch that wire if it's not needed.

AFAIK this is more of a legal requirement in most localities than anything else. If you switch the lights on their own independant circuit (as I currently do) then legally you would need to keep the lamps covered when on a public road. There may be more to this depending on your local motor vehicle code (e.g. even if covered, the lamps still have to be switched off the highbeam circuit). However, I am converting mine to run on the high beam circuit as recommended. They will come on anytime the highbeams do. This has several advantages to me (where I live):

1.) Allows me to legally run my lamps uncovered at all times.

2.) Frees up my OEM foglamp switch to actually use for foglamps (planning both front and rear fogs).

3.) When people insist on driving with their highbeams on, I can now send them a quite powerful message when I flash them!

 

[dclee]

Also, do not use the OEM harness for anything more than the switching signal. Always get your power right from the battery and run it through a good relay (I like Bosch). An inline fuse wouldn't hurt either.

 

[PKP80]

Thank you for all the help, I believe I get it and will let you know what becomes of all this info that's been attained.

Sam