Help with dual battery setup for 95 FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

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Put together a hi-res PDF a while ago with basic dual battery system components a while ago, you can download from link on this page: Delta Vehicle Systems - 1FZ Dual Battery Kit Components - https://www.deltavs.com/all-products/1fz-dual-battery-kit-components

Please note, I am NOT trying to sway you from the Slee components, it just has the link to the PDF. Also, it is not an exhaustive component list by any means.

Gives you other things to think about too. I will be updating it soon to a three battery system: "start" which is the OEM battery, "aux" which is the second battery under the hood, and "house" which would be the third battery in the back, likely a higher tech lithium or similar.

The main and aux batteries should be combined with a large relay like the Blue Sea 7622 or similar so you can use the aux battery to jump start (can't do that through a DC-DC charger like the Redarc or equivalent Victron), then a DC-DC from aux (or main if desired) to house. In this setup, you would want the main and aux to be of similar battery chemistry since they will be getting charged the same way, then the house battery can be any chemistry since the charging of it will be controlled by the DC-DC and can be tailored to what suits it best.

AWESOME! Thanks for this.:flipoff2:

I'm reading, reading, reading..... stay lead acid, go simple or MPPT controller and portable solar to start, or add duel lead acid..... or add odyssey.. Then I'm thinking how do i want it wired up, do it once BillyGoat.:hillbilly:

And boom, of Couse delta has a drawing, thanks for the visual.

Currently I am leaning Blue Sea 7622, duel lead acid (costco), Victron MPPT controller ( I need to read more on the RED ARC BCDC 1225), adding portable solar with a plan to add the center hood mounted solar as well.

 
I’ve been running dual Odyessy batteries with just a simple isolator for many years. I’ve had to replace the isolator once as it is only rated for 90A and is crammed into a tight space. I’ve replaced each of the Odyessy batteries once I believe in that time period. I also have a pair of Blue Sea switches. One to join the two batteries, and the other isolate the winch as you don’t want folks playing with it. I can’t count how many times having the aux battery has saved me front leaving me potentially stranded after leaving the lights on or something else on.
I also realize tech has changed quite a bit since I installed my dual battery setup, and as folks ad more batteries, and more ad-ons like solar, I would be inclined to have some sort of battery monitoring system.
 
I’ve been running dual Odyessy batteries with just a simple isolator for many years. I’ve had to replace the isolator once as it is only rated for 90A and is crammed into a tight space. I’ve replaced each of the Odyessy batteries once I believe in that time period. I also have a pair of Blue Sea switches. One to join the two batteries, and the other isolate the winch as you don’t want folks playing with it. I can’t count how many times having the aux battery has saved me front leaving me potentially stranded after leaving the lights on or something else on.
I also realize tech has changed quite a bit since I installed my dual battery setup, and as folks ad more batteries, and more ad-ons like solar, I would be inclined to have some sort of battery monitoring system.
Thanks for sharing your experience.

I think I'm going to start out slow with a new Costco interstate lead acid battery, solar controller like victron and a portable solar panel like a jackery or variant.

Red arc sure is fancy and shiny but I'm not sure if I need all that functionality when the victron has such a stellar track record.
I can add the blue sea 7622 additional battery and wiring when I'm ready.

I also need to do more reading and understand the 80 series charging system, based on my limited reading I don't believe it's the best thing for Odyssey style batteries, something about variable voltage versus temperature compensation. However as I learn more and get up to speed on the new technology that red Arc bcdc charge controller might solve any of the connectivity issues with the onboard charging system in the 80.
 
Awesome set up. I'm gonna be doing the same soon.
One question, what's that part?
Thank you
 
Awesome set up. I'm gonna be doing the same soon.
One question, what's that part?
Thank you

IMG_6184.jpg
 
Red arc sure is fancy and shiny but I'm not sure if I need all that functionality when the victron has such a stellar track record.
I can add the blue sea 7622 additional battery and wiring when I'm ready.

However as I learn more and get up to speed on the new technology that red Arc bcdc charge controller might solve any of the connectivity issues with the onboard charging system in the 80.
I've found the best use case for the RedArc (or other I guess) BCDC's is to overcome voltage drop in situations where batteries are mounted in the rear of the rig.
Yes all the charge profiles for different chemistries add to its capability. And the built-in MPPT controller is an extra bonus (or a redundancy to the stand-alone Victron MPPT and the MPPT built-in to the low freq inverter in my case).
But a not insignificant cost saver imo is not having to buy 20ft of 1/0+ cabling to keep the voltage drop front to rear <3%. I ran 2ga and it's plenty fine.*
*I'm also running 24V in the rear so current demand is half what 12v would draw for the same demand.
 
I always thought i did have CC. Honestly, i never checked. Maybe i can use that space and the 2 screws to relocated the fluid tank for the dual batt install.
Delta's got a really nice bracket that goes right up against the firewall for the washer reservoir relocation it also has a nice handy clip that makes relocation of the diagnostic port accessible and easy to read. The fact that it's powder coated and is stamped Delta makes it even better ;)

I'm putting my dual battery system together now I decided to go red Arc SBI isolator. I've got a plan to fabricate an aluminum bracket, and after receiving the isolator I realized my plan to keep everything contained within the battery box may actually work out.

I'll post the pictures once I get it where I want it to be.

PXL_20230331_003819936.jpg


Screenshot_20230330-174149~2.png


Screenshot_20230330-174112~2.png
 
I went KISS and just add another battery and hook them up in parallel that never seperate. Carry a jump pack and never look back.
I like your style, I was tempted to go that route but my electrician brain told me to put in the work 🍻
 
I like your style, I was tempted to go that route but my electrician brain told me to put in the work 🍻
My 40 years as an Electrical contractor told me to do it. :flipoff2:I also run a 100ah Lifepo4 lithium and a group 31 AGM the same way in another rig. o_O
 
Parts List and Qs...

DS battery box.
74043-60010

PS battery box.
74403-60100

Two grommets per battery box so, four total. Do they come with the boxes?
82819-60040 (x4)

How about the rubber bumper that runs along the top; is that included with each box?

What's with the "battery pad?" I've never seen one in use. At least one parts seller says you need two per battery. What's up with this, and does it have enough coverage for a Group 31?
74471-60040 (x?)

I don't see hold-downs and J-bolts working with Group 31s, but here they are anyway...

J-bolt
74451-60040 (x4 if they fit with your battery)

Battery hold-down
74453-60060 (x2 if they fit^)
 
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Parts List and Qs...

DS battery box.
74043-60010

PS battery box.
74403-60100

Two grommets per battery box so, four total. Do they come with the boxes?
82819-60040 (x4)

How about the rubber bumper that runs along the top; is that included with each box?

What's with the "battery pad?" I've never seen one in use. At least one parts seller says you need two per battery. What's up with this, and does it have enough coverage for a Group 31?
74471-60040 (x?)

I don't see hold-downs and J-bolts working with Group 31s, but here they are anyway...

J-bolt
74451-60040 (x4 if they fit with your battery)

Battery hold-down
74453-60060 (x2 if they fit^)
Yes the rubber that runs along the top of the battery boxes is included.

@LandCruiserPhil makes some battery hold downs that would allow for the larger batteries.

Also, not sure if it has been mentioned. On earlier 80s with the PAIR system you have to modify the air box by grinding off the mounting tabs for the PAIR system and run a hose in its place.

The one picture I have doesn't really show what I am referring to. I can take a picture later today and share it.
 
Did anyone have their A/C condenser hose sitting directly under where the 2nd battery box is located? I was thinking of wrapping it but it seems like the weight of the battery is going to be pressing against it. It's not long enough to re-route out of the way on my truck.
 
Did anyone have their A/C condenser hose sitting directly under where the 2nd battery box is located? I was thinking of wrapping it but it seems like the weight of the battery is going to be pressing against it. It's not long enough to re-route out of the way on my truck.
Yes.
I just pushed it down and bolted the box in.
It hasn't budged in several years since.
Full disclosure, my A/C has never worked so cannot say if this method is harmful in anyway. Can't imagine that it is, but mentioning anyway.
 
Did anyone have their A/C condenser hose sitting directly under where the 2nd battery box is located? I was thinking of wrapping it but it seems like the weight of the battery is going to be pressing against it. It's not long enough to re-route out of the way on my truck.
You can either cut more of the battery box or protect the hose with some sort of loom. I did a mix of both and never had an issue with the A/C hose wearing down or getting damaged.
 

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