Help with dual battery setup for 95 FZJ80

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Looking at:
Slee's Dual Battery Tray and the Washer Bottle Relocation Kit
Odyssey Battery Extreme Series, Group 34R, 880 CCA.

Thought about just doing a parallel system with a manuel switch and upgrading down the road like the Slee's IBS-DBS Dual Battery System with controller and wiring or something similar.

Any suggestion would be great.

Getting it ready for SAS.



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Irish Reiver

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Sounds good. AGM battery is a must have but not sure I would pony up the cash for the Odyssey Extreme you are planning. I would be more inclined to pick up a DC/DC charging solution (Redarc do some good ones) and an AGM battery out of Costco (Fantastic warranty). The AGM batteries are not suited to the charging profile of our older alternators hence the DC/DC charger. Most of these also have solar controllers built in which is handy if you are planning on camping in the same place for a few days with no driving.
 

surfpig

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Sounds good. AGM battery is a must have but not sure I would pony up the cash for the Odyssey Extreme you are planning. I would be more inclined to pick up a DC/DC charging solution (Redarc do some good ones) and an AGM battery out of Costco (Fantastic warranty). The AGM batteries are not suited to the charging profile of our older alternators hence the DC/DC charger. Most of these also have solar controllers built in which is handy if you are planning on camping in the same place for a few days with no driving.
I had to look that up. I'm kind of an old-school knucklehead. Very cool...
 
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If you are doing a second engine battery as a house battery I would size up to a 27 or 31 instead of the 34. I also agree with others here in that a cheaper AGM will do just fine. I have had good results with this: Duracell Ultra BCI Group 27M 12V 92AH Deep Cycle, Dual Purpose (Starting/Cycling), Starting Marine & RV Battery - SLI27MAGMDC at Batteries Plus Bulbs - https://www.batteriesplus.com/product-details/marine_rv/battery/duracell-ultra/sli27magmdc

To charge that battery I highly suggest a DC to DC charger, especially a Redarc BCDC. They have the highest temp rating and IP rating of any charger I know of. They can be mounted in the engine bay in certain locations without a temp issue based on my experience. Parallel charging a house battery with a starting battery brings issues like matching battery size, life, and chemistry; improper voltage to charge an agm to 100%, large gauge wire runs in the engine bay.
 
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The Redarc BCDC is very nice from what I have read. I totally agree that it would charge an AGM battery properly. I personally run the Blue Sea 7622 automatic charging relay. Its been flawless for almost 5 years now and cost about half the price of the Redarc BCDC. Of course the Blue Sea relay is not nearly as smart as the Redarc but its a nice heavy duty relay. Since installing my Odyssey Group 31 aux battery 5 years ago it will still be sitting around 12.80 volts after days of sitting.
 

LandLocked93

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I have that setup, albeit different batteries. Slee's wash bottle relo kit and second batt tray.
Use a simple dash-switched relay with monitoring to choose when to bind the batteries to equalize. Least expensive route imo.
Also run a dash-switched 24v Redarc BCDC to D4 Interstate AGMs in the rear.
+3 RedArc.
 

Road Apple

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Recently installed a RedArc BCDC 1225D. It charges a ExertPower 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 - EP12100 house battery through the starter battery when the engine is running or it uses solar if available when the engine is off. Very easy 4 wire setup for the BCDC. It has run flawlessly since install.

The Lithium Iron Phosphate battery is larger than a lithium ion battery with the same capacity, but the LiFePO4 doesn’t have thermal run away issues, so mounting it in the engine compartment isn’t a problem.

A 100aH LiFePO4 battery is slightly larger than a group 27, so your current battery mounts and tray will work. I had to trim down the RHD battery tray with a Dremel to fit the longer LiFePO4. I also used the Slee Dual Battery Tray and the Washer Bottle Relocation Kit.

The ExertPower 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 - EP12100 battery comes with female threads and bolts to make your connections. I added a set of 8mm charging posts from Amazon that screwed into the female threads on the battery.

Lithium batteries maintain constant voltage down to 10% of capacity without damage to life span, so they offer much higher usable capacity over an AGM, which can only use about 50% of capacity before damage occurs. Lithium is lighter and has a much longer life. About 10 times as long. Lithium’s higher initial cost is offset by its longer life.

I combined a set of LCP battery mounts with the stock mounts to add strength and prevent the stock mounts from pulling out of the battery tray.

Consider upgrading your major ground wires while you’re in there. Battery to block 2 awg, battery to body 6 awg, and add a battery to frame 2 awg. Huddexpo sells pre-made cables that include a 90 degree lug to attach to the engine block.

Would have upgraded battery to alternator if it wasn’t buried so deep in the wiring harness. Maybe later.




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LandLocked93

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Recently installed a RedArc BCDC 1225D. It charges a ExertPower 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 - EP12100 house battery through the starter battery when the engine is running or it uses solar if available when the engine is off. Very easy 4 wire setup for the BCDC. It has run flawlessly since install.

The Lithium Iron Phosphate battery is larger than a lithium ion battery with the same capacity, but the LiFePO4 doesn’t have thermal run away issues, so mounting it in the engine compartment isn’t a problem.

A 100aH LiFePO4 battery is slightly larger than a group 27, so your current battery mounts and tray will work. I had to trim down the RHD battery tray with a Dremel to fit the longer LiFePO4. I also used the Slee Dual Battery Tray and the Washer Bottle Relocation Kit.

Lithium batteries maintain constant voltage to 90% of capacity without damage to life span, so they offer much higher usable capacity over an AGM, which can only use about 50% of capacity before damage occurs. Lithium is lighter and has a much longer life. About 10 times as long.

I combined a set of LCP battery mounts with the stock mounts to add strength and prevent the stock mounts from pulling out of the battery tray.

Consider upgrading your major ground wires while you’re in there. Battery to block 2 awg, battery to body 6 awg, and add a battery to frame 2 awg.

Would have upgraded battery to alternator if it wasn’t buried so deep in the wiring harness. Maybe later.



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I use the MRBFs too. This land lubber discovered they save alot of space, hole drilling, and nut'n bolting.
Pricey buggars but worth it overall imo.
 

bajaphile

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There is a lot of options you can go with obviously. If you want to keep it simple, I'd stick with a standard lead acid (group 31) and a Blue Seas ACR (just an automatic isolator that is a tad smarter than a standard isolator). The Redarc units are very good and will charge and maintain the batteries better, but also cost $300+. Not entirely necessary for a simple 2nd lead acid battery system. As stated earlier, if you do go with a different battery technology, you'll want one of these for proper charging. (AGM battery only lasted me a few months in the Cruiser). Buy some long jumper cables and cut off the ends for your large gage wiring.

For what its worth, a battery that lists a CCA is not a true deep cycle battery. Ensure you do not drain it below ~12.0V (Probably a real number out there) otherwise you'll damage the battery. Either keep it topped off with a solar or frequent starts. The G31 size will generally be good enough to run a compressor fridge for a 24 hour period though.
 

lumbee1

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I used a pair of Costco batteries (24F starting and 24 deep cycle house), National Luna Intelligent Solenoid, National Luna Battery Controller, BlueSea 100A circuit breaker between batteries, and Bussman 60A to the rear of the truck.

The second battery tray was purchased through the local dealership for the best price. Wiring was purchased from Amazon and I used a hydraulic crimper with tin coated copper lugs and epoxy heat shrink tubing. NL requires both positive and negative running to the second battery so I ran the wires under the radiator cross member and zip tied them to the headlight harness. 100A breaker coming off the starting battery before running to house battery and is mounted on a piece of aluminum bent 90*. The Group24 (not 24F) for the house battery has additional terminals. I used these to connect a 4AWG for big power and a 10AWG for fridge to be run to the back of the truck. I used a tiny fuse box for the 10AWG runs and added a relay for a dash mounted switch for fridge on/off control. Big power will be used for 45A Anderson connectors, cig lighter, and USB/voltmeter. The 45A Andersons will be used for air compressor sitting on the tailgate and a diesel heater.

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The first round port is a pair of Anderson connectors with switched power for the fridge.
The other group of three are Anderson with 45A connectors, 12V cig lighter, and USB/voltmeter.
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Delta VS

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Looking at:
Slee's Dual Battery Tray and the Washer Bottle Relocation Kit
Odyssey Battery Extreme Series, Group 34R, 880 CCA.

Thought about just doing a parallel system with a manuel switch and upgrading down the road like the Slee's IBS-DBS Dual Battery System with controller and wiring or something similar.

Any suggestion would be great.

Getting it ready for SAS.



View attachment 2718025
Put together a hi-res PDF a while ago with basic dual battery system components a while ago, you can download from link on this page: Delta Vehicle Systems - 1FZ Dual Battery Kit Components - https://www.deltavs.com/all-products/1fz-dual-battery-kit-components

Please note, I am NOT trying to sway you from the Slee components, it just has the link to the PDF. Also, it is not an exhaustive component list by any means.

Gives you other things to think about too. I will be updating it soon to a three battery system: "start" which is the OEM battery, "aux" which is the second battery under the hood, and "house" which would be the third battery in the back, likely a higher tech lithium or similar.

The main and aux batteries should be combined with a large relay like the Blue Sea 7622 or similar so you can use the aux battery to jump start (can't do that through a DC-DC charger like the Redarc or equivalent Victron), then a DC-DC from aux (or main if desired) to house. In this setup, you would want the main and aux to be of similar battery chemistry since they will be getting charged the same way, then the house battery can be any chemistry since the charging of it will be controlled by the DC-DC and can be tailored to what suits it best.
 

lumbee1

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Put together a hi-res PDF a while ago with basic dual battery system components a while ago, you can download from link on this page: Delta Vehicle Systems - 1FZ Dual Battery Kit Components - https://www.deltavs.com/all-products/1fz-dual-battery-kit-components

Please note, I am NOT trying to sway you from the Slee components, it just has the link to the PDF. Also, it is not an exhaustive component list by any means.

Gives you other things to think about too. I will be updating it soon to a three battery system: "start" which is the OEM battery, "aux" which is the second battery under the hood, and "house" which would be the third battery in the back, likely a higher tech lithium or similar.

The main and aux batteries should be combined with a large relay like the Blue Sea 7622 or similar so you can use the aux battery to jump start (can't do that through a DC-DC charger like the Redarc or equivalent Victron), then a DC-DC from aux (or main if desired) to house. In this setup, you would want the main and aux to be of similar battery chemistry since they will be getting charged the same way, then the house battery can be any chemistry since the charging of it will be controlled by the DC-DC and can be tailored to what suits it best.
With the National Luna Intelligent Solenoid and their Battery Controller, you can combine for self jump or extra winch power. I actually had to use the combine feature after installing the second battery and leaving the doors open for so long running wires.
 

Delta VS

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With the National Luna Intelligent Solenoid and their Battery Controller, you can combine for self jump or extra winch power. I actually had to use the combine feature after installing the second battery and leaving the doors open for so long running wires.
Good to know there is another option. Can you adjust charging voltages with that thing to allow combining different battery chemistry?
 

Dave 2000

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The Redarc BCDC is very nice from what I have read. I totally agree that it would charge an AGM battery properly. I personally run the Blue Sea 7622 automatic charging relay. Its been flawless for almost 5 years now and cost about half the price of the Redarc BCDC. Of course the Blue Sea relay is not nearly as smart as the Redarc but its a nice heavy duty relay.
I too run the 7622 Blue Seas unit and after around 5 years it packed up but the warranty stood up and it was replaced no questions asked. I used the manual override until the replacement arrived. FWIW I use two ordinanry wet cell marine batteries, I just replace them every four years without question, no issues.

Regards

Dave
 

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