help with adapter 4bt to A440F

[PhrogsPhorever]

You need the 4" to clear the oil pan, the 4B is a tall motor. You can go the route I did, get spacers to give you the extra bit of lift if you want to save some coin, it'll depend on the cost of 1 4" kit versus the cost or 4 spacers. You'll just have to make sure you get enough caster correction if you use spacers as a 3" kit may not have enough, and you may need a little more if you upgrade to a DC shaft.

 

[Pauliche]

$3400 for the complete swap not including motor? I dont think that will do it.. 4BT's run about 2-5k depending on what is done to them and adapters. The 4BT I built was a Inline pump 4bt and by the time I was done with it (did all the work myself) I had 5k into it. For the lift I bought the Slee 4in DIY kit and it was a cinch to install, but I was also looking at the Ironman 4inch lift. Its like 1600 for everything minus a dshaft.

I'm pretty sure he meant he sold a car of his and has another 3400 to play with and contemplating which lift to go with to accomodate the 4bt. To which end, I don't know but am rather interested myself... I'm sure someone will chime in shortly.

 

[4BTFJ80]

Yes I'm aware that I don't have enough money on hand to complete the build but I can get started with the proper lift. I just really want to do it right the first time and spend it on quality parts one time.

I've read I need the 4" lift but it's hard to imagine that 1" makes that much difference for the 4bt (that's what she said ) but what do I know, I'm a newbie to FJ80's. I don't think I want to use spacers/adapters to gain the extra inch if I truly need the 4" lift.

I still need to sort out what my best combination of trans & tcase should be & if the trans needs to be from a 4x4 vs. 2x4, minimize use of adapters, either one at engine/trans or one at trans/tcase hopefull not both. My preference is to still use a modified stock trans/flexplate, change the torque converter as necessary but i do want reliability & quality. I will not be rock crawling but rather expedition/exploring type of use & commuting.

I definately want to stay with an automatic trans so what would be the best most reliable and readily available combination and the most cost effective combination if there is one? If this means the build/swap will take longer than I was hoping for then so be it. I believe that paying for quality is cheaper than going cheap and then make excuses and ends up costing more in the long run. That way I only make the excuse once to spend on quality and no excuses like "I shoulda coulda woulda" later.

Thanks again everyone I really appreciate all the helpful advise.

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

I've read I need the 4" lift but it's hard to imagine that 1" makes that much difference for the 4bt (that's what she said ) but what do I know, I'm a newbie to FJ80's. I don't think I want to use spacers/adapters to gain the extra inch if I truly need the 4" lift.

You will need every bit of the 4" lift. Even with 4", there isn't a whole lot of clearance between the oil pan and the axle. I have no problems using the spacers the PO used on the original lift, eventually I'll go with a set of FOR progressive rate springs if I keep the truck, but the OME heavies and 4+Plus and MetalTech spacers work fine for what I use the truck for and ride fairly well.

Tranny-wise, depends on the engine you get. The Ford patterns I'm not too familiar with. With a GM pattern, if don't want to go with a manual, then the Turbo 400, 4L60E, 4L80E and 700R4 have been the most common transmissions that I have seen in the swaps for automatics. Seems that most like to stick with the hydromechanical transmissions to eliminate having to fool around with the electronic junk.

Good luck and I'd definitely stop over at 4BTSwaps, great forum started by a Mudder and is a super resource on diesel swaps that focuses on the 4B motor.

 

[Sc0-]

For an automatic, the 47RH/A618 has my vote... Have it built by a friend who knows what they are doing as it is super easy to get ripped off when messing with slushboxes. (Like said above, most of the RE parts can be used with the RH and if you have enough RH parts you can convert an RE to mechanical RH.) The older A518 dodge tranny does not have the lockup torque converter but I think it does have an overdrive so it can be an option. (A TF-727 coupled with an overdrive = A518.) (If you go with a Dodge automatic tranny, 47RH/RE, then you will also need the rear bellhousing adapter from a 6BT, flexplate, and starter.... If your engine doesn't already have it. If you go with a GM 4L80E or 700R4 then you have to find the rear engine plate/flexplate for the TH-475 that came behind some 4BT Frito-Lay type trucks, Chevy P30 box trucks? Depends on what your engine currently has hanging off the back of it.)

The TH-475 and TF-727's lived happily behind the 4BT's but lacked overdrive and a lockup torque converter... Could move to a newer type 47/48RE or the 4L80E but will need a electronic controller to run it.

Then you have the transfer case issue, what transfer case to run? Also do not forget about the rear axle pumpkin being offset a tad. If you goto a part-time case then you lose AWD and CDL, not to mention having to add locking hubs. If you stay with the OEM transfercase then you have to wonder how long it will last... (Should be OK without engine mods?) Also OAL of the drivetrain as you don't want to run into fuel tank clearances. For transfer cases, NP205 is king for GM applications but the Low range sucks. The Atlas transfer case is nice and Stak's 2 and 3-speed is even better but that's around $2k+ and might have clearance issues. The Dana-300 and NP208 might be OK while the Dana-20 might be very short-lived...

Have a headache yet?

 

[cody c]

Hey, I did have an A440f behind the 6 bt for quite a while. Most of the work was done by the PO or whatever shop he had it at.

I thought the A440 had a rodney's extreme valvebody kit but later when I went to sell it I couldnt find any markings as such. It did however have a custom torque converter from wholesale automatic out of of australia.

The transmission held up fine, but it started eating flexplates, which I suspect was more to do with engine/transmission misalignment than the torque.

I now run it with an advanced adapter to a 60 series split case, with a cummins nv4500 (sometimes known as the NV4500HD) which is slightly different than the ones found in gassers. I swapped on some 60 series front hubs ands run the truck in 2wd on the beaten path.

For the extra work involved getting the 5 speed NV4500 in there, I still would have preffered it done in the first place. I do like it over the auto, its easier to slow down, let it idle at different gears up and down hills, and is a little funner to drive.

If you do want to stick with the A440, go for it, but you may end up getting a custom torque converter. Also if you cant find an adapter and need one made, your cost savings over the NV4500/split case start getting closer.

If you really prefer the auto, or you want it a little more driver friendly for the wife, then maybe an auto is the way to go. There is some good info about 4bt/6bt swaps in buildups in the 60 series section and the diesel section as well. I have a few pics of some work in a thread as well. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/407556-codys-slow-white-80-re-build.html

Cody.