Help Troubleshooting F155 Engine that hasn’t run in 37 years! (1 Viewer)

[bemerritt]

Greetings! Came home with a 1/1970 FJ40 last week and could use some help in establishing whether this F155 engine is worth the time and effort. Not whether the F155 is up to my use case but whether this particular one is worth the squeeze.

What I know:

• Parked in 1985 under a tree in Northern California
• There was a brief attempt to restore it 3 years ago. Got it to turn over by pushing it to get oil pressure and bump starting it (their words)
• New gas line was run from the tank, presumably from the attempt three years ago
• Oil on the dipstick looks like it was most likely replaced three years ago as well

I had read some before diving into it with my father but we definitely were just excited having finished the 17 hours of driving the day prior and wanted to see if it would turn over.



Got clicking from the starter, but no movement. So pulled it, cleaned it and got it what seemed like working on the bench. Put back in, got some very slow turnover, that seemed to slowly get better. At this point it seemed like there was a short in the starter that would spark to the ground strap and we got some smoking, so we stopped. Decided to order a new starter and come see what else people would recommend.

Definitely some coolant under the cover, some emulsified oil and very black rockers. Our goal was to get it to turn over so we could do a compression test and go from there. And after some reading it definitely seems like we should have tried to get some oil on the pistons before trying to turn it over. But wanted to check and see what the brains on here thought who have been down this road before.

Questions:

• Are we on the right track with changing out the starter and going from there with a compression test?
• Should we just tear it all apart now and look for cracks?
• Other tests before tearing it apart?
• Do the intake and exhaust guides "flex" or should they all be straight vertical at all times.

If this isn’t “the one” will definitely upgrade to a 2f. Thanks for any and all comments. If it wasn’t apparent in the text, very much a beginner in this realm, but armed with my father and the power of the internet, ready to learn whatever is needed to get this baby back on the road.

 

[bemerritt]

More pictures from the for sale ad that show the engine bay.

 

[miller]

Engine is free so that is good. I would pull points and clean those up and get them set as per manual then check that you have spark. If you have some compression and squirt some gas down the carb it should start. That carb will need a rebuild from sitting. Mine was full of sludge.

 

[middlecalf]

I'd get it running and drive it some amount, then readdress question of keeping or swapping the motor. To get it running, since it looks like the carb has been open to the environment, I'd pull each plug (look at them for completeness) and squirt a smidgeon of ATF or miracle oil into each cylinder. Crank it a bit (without coil so it doesn't turn over), let it sit for some time (day or so), then hook up the coil and give it a go! Vroom Vroom hopefully.

 

[bemerritt]

I'd get it running and drive it some amount, then readdress question of keeping or swapping the motor. To get it running, since it looks like the carb has been open to the environment, I'd pull each plug (look at them for completeness) and squirt a smidgeon of ATF or miracle oil into each cylinder. Crank it a bit (without coil so it doesn't turn over), let it sit for some time (day or so), then hook up the coil and give it a go! Vroom Vroom hopefully.

Definitely wont rush to moving on to the next one, would love to get it running. Definitely think some oil in the cylinders would help. As it seemed to slowly get a little better, but the rpm was soooo slow. So figured we'd start by getting a new battery and starter.

 

[fjwagon]

All good advise and it seems you are on the right track. I do the same on soaking the pistons and checking the spark plugs. I have never removed the dizzy and used a drill to prime an oil pump but others have. Not sure If you can install a gear reduction starter(fj60) instead...but if you can that would less stress on the battery. But if the engine still rotates slowly, clean the terminals on both ends, on both leads coming from the battery. I usually bypass the gas tank and used a small container for fresh gas mixed with a little Seafoam. Hopefully it will cough when you start cranking it if not check to see if you are getting "spark" at the plug. If not check your points. I just replace them. On less thing to worry. If it's a healthy engine.....it should start.

 

[pjohnson]

All good advice above, I would definitely put ATF or Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders and let it sit a bit.
If it sat unmoving for that long, it's probable the cylinder walls were dry when you tried to turn it over. I would buy a cheap boroscope and take a look inside the cylinders before going much further.

 

[bemerritt]

Thanks everyone for the advice. The new GR starter (28100-60070-84) is in the mail.

Ill put some Marvel Mystery in thru the spark plugs when I inspect them.

Any worry about coolant under the cover? Hopefully just some old seals?

 

[Vandal FJ]

That thing looks rust free?! That's THE number one thing to take away from it... everything else is EASY and fun, after that!

 

[SteveH]

I would put plenty of MMO or ATF in the cylinders and let it sit a day or two - or three. You want that oil to saturate the rings, etc. Leave the spark plugs out, put a towel over the plug holes (ahem!), and crank it with no compression until the oil pressure comes up. This should be a safe way to turn it over. You might dump a wee bit of oil down the lifter galleys and atop the valve train as you go. Be very nice to that old tired engine and it might reward you!