you can do it! No problemo! thanks for sharing.
Help selecting new speakers (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter unatiq
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- Thread starter
- #22
Ok so I got the door panel off. Removed the old speaker and bracket. Now I’m confused. The bracket supplied by Crutchfield doesn’t match up the holes where the old bracket holes were.
The old bracket had the speaker glued on. Can I use the same old bracket and just use regular old glue?
I think I’ve figured out the new bracket. But my question is can I just use the self tapping screws and drill the bracket/speaker into the metal of the door frame? If I do that then my supplied adapter wire will be behind the frame of the door?
The old bracket had the speaker glued on. Can I use the same old bracket and just use regular old glue?
I think I’ve figured out the new bracket. But my question is can I just use the self tapping screws and drill the bracket/speaker into the metal of the door frame? If I do that then my supplied adapter wire will be behind the frame of the door?
I used the existing bracket and screwed the speakers to it. I had to cut off two little plastic tabs and then the speakers sit flush.
A couple pieces of information..
A lower impedance (not resistance.. but I won't get into that here) speaker makes your amp work harder and is less efficient, not the other way around. An 8ohm speaker is easier to drive and requires less power fromp your amp than a 4 ohm speaker, and even more so than a 2ohm. Those who've said that an 8ohm speaker will make your amp work harder are incorrect. If you replace some of the speakers in the system with different drivers, and the ones you use are more efficient, the tonal balance of your system will suffer.. probably greatly. Whether you like the new sound or not, that's up to you.
In our vehicles, the likelihood of a "blown" speaker, meaning fused or shorted voice coil, is pretty unlikely. The speaker foam surround, most likely, is the culprit and can be repaired by anyone with a couple bucks for the repair kit, an hour or two of free time, and the ability to read directions.
A lower impedance (not resistance.. but I won't get into that here) speaker makes your amp work harder and is less efficient, not the other way around. An 8ohm speaker is easier to drive and requires less power fromp your amp than a 4 ohm speaker, and even more so than a 2ohm. Those who've said that an 8ohm speaker will make your amp work harder are incorrect. If you replace some of the speakers in the system with different drivers, and the ones you use are more efficient, the tonal balance of your system will suffer.. probably greatly. Whether you like the new sound or not, that's up to you.
In our vehicles, the likelihood of a "blown" speaker, meaning fused or shorted voice coil, is pretty unlikely. The speaker foam surround, most likely, is the culprit and can be repaired by anyone with a couple bucks for the repair kit, an hour or two of free time, and the ability to read directions.
Can anyone confirm these are OE speakers? When I dug in, it was obvious I wasn't the first one to remove these speakers.. which is odd - I bought the truck when it was 4 years old with 39,000 miles. Anyway... does this look factory?
I played Crutchfield's fit game - enter the car/year, etc... but I'm seeing 5 1/4", 6 1/2", 6 3/4" and 2 ohm, 3 ohm and 4 ohm as options. Maybe on the size - just fill the hole with a mounting bracket. But the ohms? Surely there's an optimal impedance for the factory stereo/amp
- Thread starter
- #27
Hey so I can’t see the pics of your speaker. I did the Crutchfield thing and the speakers I got (cheapest Rockford) fit pretty well however I wish I spent more money. The factory speakers sounded better.
Sorry, the pics came in HUGE.
The speakers are JBL 2 Ohm, 30w. Crutchfield's "Best Fit" is suggesting 4 ohm.
The speakers are JBL 2 Ohm, 30w. Crutchfield's "Best Fit" is suggesting 4 ohm.
How's the Infinity Kappas treating you?
