Help please

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 11, 2019
Threads
4
Messages
131
Location
Knightsen ca
I dont have any power at the neutral safety switch. I have checked almost everywhere everywhere. There is a relay at the DS kick panel that looks like PO ran a new wire and tied it into power at NSS but was disconnected cruiser was working fine then started having paracidtic amp draw. Changed battery starter and chased down where it could be drawing from I’m stumped
 
Fuseable link ?? is the first place I would look
 
Fuseable link ?? is the first place I would look
Checked it works, what I have it pointed down to is some how I do not have any voltage on the power supply wire at the NSS, checked the wire it self also checked Connector at the Nss
 
What does the neutral safety switch do...?
 
Checked it works, what I have it pointed down to is some how I do not have any voltage on the power supply wire at the NSS, checked the wire it self also checked Connector at the Nss
Always refer to the FSM.
Keep in mind that there are 3 fusible links.

Starter.JPG
 
Just testing it does't always tell you it is bad I would just swap it out, I always carry at least 1 new one
 
Checked it works, what I have it pointed down to is some how I do not have any voltage on the power supply wire at the NSS, checked the wire it self also checked Connector at the Nss
The NSS does not get constant +12. It is part of the starter logic path.
 
You also gave very little information regarding the problem.
I'm assuming that the starter will not crank. Is that correct, or are you chasing something else?
Sorry started out with a battery draining over a couple days so I started chasing a drain. Charged The battery then the starter would not crank over took it in and had it tested , tested good got a new one from warrant. Still would not start with fully charged batter. Saw the schematic that You sent me earlier, checked all the splices and connectors for the starter circuit. While chasing the wiring I found a wire that the PO had run from a relay For the alarm system to the black and white wire to the NSS not hooked up so I hooked it up and it would start right up with the key. Removed that wire so I know the started is good. doing all this while it’s a 110 degrees out side so please forgive my lack of detail in explaining. What I am wondering if the ignition switch is not quite right?
 
Sorry started out with a battery draining over a couple days so I started chasing a drain. Charged The battery then the starter would not crank over took it in and had it tested , tested good got a new one from warrant. Still would not start with fully charged batter. Saw the schematic that You sent me earlier, checked all the splices and connectors for the starter circuit. While chasing the wiring I found a wire that the PO had run from a relay For the alarm system to the black and white wire to the NSS not hooked up so I hooked it up and it would start right up with the key. Removed that wire so I know the started is good. doing all this while it’s a 110 degrees out side so please forgive my lack of detail in explaining. What I am wondering if the ignition switch is not quite right?
So before the battery died the first time, was this truck able to start with no issues?
Was the starter issue coincident with you changing the battery?
If yes to both, then a faulty fusible link would be my first thought. They are subject to constant vibration and are a known trouble spot. IMO, they should be changed with every battery change, and they cost all of $16.

Another possibility is the alarm system no longer functioning correctly. Depending on the make/model of the alarm system, there are several good posts on this forum that show how to remove it.
 
So before the battery died the first time, was this truck able to start with no issues? Yes truck was starting zero issues.
Was the starter issue coincident with you changing the battery? Starter issue started right after I charged the battery . Will change out the fuse able link next.
If yes to both, then a faulty fusible link would be my first thought. They are subject to constant vibration and are a known trouble spot. IMO, they should be changed with every battery change, and they cost all of $16.

Another possibility is the alarm system no longer functioning correctly. Depending on the make/model of the alarm system, there are several good posts on this forum that show how to remove it. Found them before I posted this question and started to remove the wiring. In hopes that that is what is the cause of the problem
 
So is that how these alarms are typically wired, disrupting the ignition system feed to the NSS? If so, I am guessing the alarm is the issue and the PO bypassed the alarm with the wire from the kick panel. Alarm system removal threads may be of value in figuring this out, and/or installing a switched power source to your nss as the PO did until you figure out the issue with the alarm, if that is indeed the issue.
 
So is that how these alarms are typically wired, disrupting the ignition system feed to the NSS? If so, I am guessing the alarm is the issue and the PO bypassed the alarm with the wire from the kick panel. Alarm system removal threads may be of value in figuring this out, and/or installing a switched power source to your nss as the PO did until you figure out the issue with the alarm, if that is indeed the issue.
Yes thank you very much that was the problem
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom